The official 36" zelos twin modding thread

[Erroneous]

WHY do you want "longer than stock"?

I can tell you from personal experience with this boat that longer struts will give you trimming issues.

Not sure what you are looking to gain, but I don't think this is the right direction.

Ideally would like to keep the same length. I'm just searching for struts with bearings or the option to add bearings ( little more meat). Its not a must just seams like it would be a great upgrade addition to the system. Thanks for the answer on the length.

[Darin Jordan]

Ideally would like to keep the same length. I'm just searching for struts with bearings or the option to add bearings ( little more meat). Its not a must just seams like it would be a great upgrade addition to the system. Thanks for the answer on the length.

I haven't tried it yet, but I believe that there is enough "meat" there to bore them to .250" and install a set of Octura Lead-Teflon bushings. That should be more than adequate for about anything you'd want to throw at a 36" hull.

In fact, I just did this upgrade to my TFL Cheetah struts, after I shortened them, and they are basically the same strut design.

These originally had the captures style propshafts. I removed those, but found that the ID of the strut hole was slightly larger than the .250" O.D. of the Octura bushings, but I found a stainless sleeve that just happened to be the exact correct OD to press fit in place. Basically, you just need to have the ID of the strut be .250", and the Octuras will press into place. You MIGHT have to hone them in to get their ID just right for your propshafts, once they are in place.

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[Erroneous]

I haven't tried it yet, but I believe that there is enough "meat" there to bore them to .250" and install a set of Octura Lead-Teflon bushings. That should be more than adequate for about anything you'd want to throw at a 36" hull.

In fact, I just did this upgrade to my TFL Cheetah struts, after I shortened them, and they are basically the same strut design.

These originally had the captures style propshafts. I removed those, but found that the ID of the strut hole was slightly larger than the .250" O.D. of the Octura bushings, but I found a stainless sleeve that just happened to be the exact correct OD to press fit in place. Basically, you just need to have the ID of the strut be .250", and the Octuras will press into place. You MIGHT have to hone them in to get their ID just right for your propshafts, once they are in place.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]143538[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]143539[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]143540[/ATTACH]

Yes, yes, and YES.. Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Love this boat more and more with each outing. I spent about 2 hours working the stock props last night and got up to 59.9 mph today at the stock 4mm strut settings. I'm pretty sure if I spend a few more hours on these props I can get another 5mph outta them :) love it man!!


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Looks good. Keep working on those props. Darin gave me a set he sharpened and polished which I got 63 out of, stock. Those are the props I used for the 2 lap record event earlier this year.

[gohan]

Just pulled the trigger on a Zelos Twin.....should be here by end of the week... YEEHAW !!

[kfxguy]

Just pulled the trigger on a Zelos Twin.....should be here by end of the week... YEEHAW !!

Go ahead buddy! You'll love it!

[Erroneous]

I agree, thing is a tank built to last. Proven over 80mph so far. My goal is 90.. Anyone looking for 100?

[kfxguy]

I agree, thing is a tank built to last. Proven over 80mph so far. My goal is 90.. Anyone looking for 100?

I wouldn't. 90 is super easy with this boat and a 100 would not hard either. I wouldn't go that fast without reinforcing the hull and hatch. It's built well don't get me wrong, but pushing it that far may not be a good idea

[Team Lucas]

Hey all. FNG here and love all the help you offer to one another. Not new to r/c boat racing, but new to electric boats. Back years ago Nitro was king and you actually had to build it...lol Have a question, with a Nitro prop it needed to be balanced and sharpened, but didn't need to be "razor" sharp, does it make a big difference with electric? I balanced and sharpened like I was use to, seemed slow, high 40's to low 50's. Thanks for any help

[Darin Jordan]

does it make a big difference with electric? I balanced and sharpened like I was use to, seemed slow, high 40's to low 50's. Thanks for any help

It makes a difference for both... I wouldn't say that the average person needs to be cutting themselves like a razor everytime they touch the prop, but they should be sharp.

You need to be wearing gloves to install mine, in most cases, especially those for Time-Trials.

I'm going to suggest that, most likely, the majority of "why won't mine to 60 too" issues are related to lower quality batteries. Even brand new cells may not have the best "voltage-under-load" that a good quality cell will have. If you have a way to record the loaded voltage and you are seeing a voltage under load of 3.5V or lower, the prop is not likely your issue.

Also, GOOD cells, when cold, will look like bad cells... If your cells are <70 deg F... (I'd actually venture to say <85-90 deg F), they are likely dumping voltage under load a LOT more than you think they are. You can get a good idea about this if you can even record your loaded RPM, via Telemetry or some other type of data recording device.

[kfxguy]

I haven't thought of that. The batteries I use do not drop under load near as bad as others I've tried, probably the reason mine has gone over 70 with it all stock and sharpened props. Prop swap its netted me 76 but it's running a little wet so it's got 80 in it on stock electronics but you do need very good batteries to do it.

[Darin Jordan]

.... but you do need very good batteries to do it.

Yes. I've even see "very good batteries", that seem to work very well at first, drop off significantly after getting wet, or short-cycling too often (never pulling them down to 3.6 or 3.7V/Cell by completely discharging them and then charging back up.), etc.

Temp, lots of wire, poor solder connections, etc., can all make a difference.

[Darin Jordan]

Temp, lots of wire, poor solder connections, etc., can all make a difference.

There is a solid reason why us "nut-job" SAW/Time-Trial competitors do the strange things we do.

[Team Lucas]

I think its a battery issue, I don't understand it. Horizon suggested 2s 5000mah 50c. bought 4 of those but ordered the 3s ver. elsewhere [don't have those yet]. I ran it once last weekend on 4c pushed all the way forward, to stop bouncing. I also sharpened 1 blade last night, 2nd one tonight to "razor" sharp. what battery set up is good for this? I like to hit 70, without burning things up. Also is sharping the rudder help?

[Darin Jordan]

Also is sharping the rudder help?

If you look at the rudder, it's square on the leading edge. The bottom line is really this... anything in the water needs to be sharp...

You will also gain some speed by scuffing the ride surfaces with some 320 or 400-grit sand paper. But most like them "shiny", so they don't like to do this. However, polished/smooth surfaces are slower.