Delta 29" copy build -help needed!

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  • domwilson
    Moderator
    • Apr 2007
    • 4408

    #61
    That should work as long as you can minimize the bends in the servo linkage.
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

    Comment

    • Brod
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 196

      #62
      fastV,my original setup on my 29" was a 2875kv Megamotor which only weighed 165g,i ran it on 3S lipo with a CC60 esc with homemade watercooling.I used a X440 prop and ran it like that for a whole season with no probs.Stuff came back cool
      speeds were probably high 30's maybe 40 but ok.
      Your set up with the X440 prop and SV bits should be ok to start with.
      The only real way to find out is to get her done and try it.
      Brod..
      Slow gets boring fast.

      Comment

      • FastVee
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2008
        • 649

        #63
        Today I received the motor,mount,scuff tube,liner and spare rudder, so I can go to my cabin tomorrow and build this thing!

        The props are on their way here, may take few more days.

        At least I can install everything and then the prop issue is the only issue


        Pics tomorrow(If my laptop finds 3g signal on the island).

        Now I need to decide should the motor go in the front or not... got 30cm flex so that is the limit from transom.

        The motor mount I got has water cooling option, since I will use only the rudder pick up,should I leave the fittings w/o fuel(water) tube, or what? -thinking that the water pressure is not enough to go thrue the esc,motor mount and motor.

        Why do some of you install plywood decks and lay batteries on them? -that would rise the cog quite a bit. Is it because the possibility of water inside or what????
        www.youtube.com/rangerpate

        Comment

        • Scott T
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2007
          • 590

          #64
          Originally posted by FastVee
          Well, how big esc does it need? 70,120A?

          -how did this happen...b4 I ordered this hull it was like "stock sv parts will work " and now it is "get everything and more"I mean cmon guys, I cant afford that much(120 hydra 180 and 70A basic thingy 80$), I just wanted a better hull then SV that would work with sv parts.

          And your stuff will be just fine in that hull. I don't know why Douggie calls it a wet running hull, it's all in the set-up. I would have no hesitation running the stock SV prop with the stock SV electronics in that hull. See how you go, and bigger props may follow.

          You said you had fairly choppy water, so your hull shouldn't run wet. just ensure two things:
          1. Don't add a lot of unecessary weight to the boat when you build it.
          2. Ensure that the ESC cooling plates are making good contact with the ESC. This is worth spending some time on with the SV ESC.

          Ive been racing FE for about 5 years now, and have never blown an ESC (even Castle!). And I don't run slow, just ask any of the Aussie guys I've raced against. So I'm not giving you a recipe for disaster.

          Scott
          Scott Tapsall
          Pine Rivers Model Powerboat Club - Facebook Page
          My Gallery

          Comment

          • Scott T
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2007
            • 590

            #65
            Originally posted by FastVee

            Now I need to decide should the motor go in the front or not... got 30cm flex so that is the limit from transom.

            The motor mount I got has water cooling option, since I will use only the rudder pick up,should I leave the fittings w/o fuel(water) tube, or what? -thinking that the water pressure is not enough to go thrue the esc,motor mount and motor.

            Why do some of you install plywood decks and lay batteries on them? -that would rise the cog quite a bit. Is it because the possibility of water inside or what????
            The motor towards the back normally works well in hulls this size with this setup. Also shortens the drive cable so you have a little reduction in friction. But try to keep the bend as smooth as possible. Most important thing is to lay your stuff out to get the CG right, and make the boat easy to work on (no point putting the motor so far back that your can't access the coupler etc etc).

            If you have a jacket cooler on the motor, I wouldn't worry about cooling the motor mount. More important to cool the motor can than the front face.

            I mount my lipos on a plywood tray so I have a flat surface to velcro to, and I epoxy the extra velcro straps under the tray (I run single 4S packs). I make the tray as narrow as possible, so it sits deep in the vee.

            You should be able to copy your hardware locations from the SV. Just make sure your strut has some adjustment for vertical up and down, and angle.
            Last edited by Scott T; 07-23-2009, 12:13 AM.
            Scott Tapsall
            Pine Rivers Model Powerboat Club - Facebook Page
            My Gallery

            Comment

            • Jimmy Sterling
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2008
              • 393

              #66
              And I don't run slow, just ask any of the Aussie guys I've raced against.
              Wont go there

              Come to the FASST side

              Comment

              • Jimmy Sterling
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2008
                • 393

                #67
                Fastvee,

                Try not to have the motor mounted too close to the stern of the model as it makes for a real job when wanting to remove the motor for numerous reasons, not to mention doing and undoing the coupler as Scotty mentioned.

                - I have made that mistake before in an OM26

                Also try to mount the motor itself as low as possible in the V of the hull, not only to lower the vertical COG and make the boat more stable at speed but to also avoid having too much of a bend in the stuffing tube helping to avoid any unwanted load on the power system.

                If running 2 x 2S packs it may be proactiv to just straight velcro them to the hull (weight saver).

                Depending on how you intend to fasten your strut assembly to the hull, you may want to slightly slot the mounting holes to allow for the adjustment of strut height.

                this is what i think, running flat-small chop have the strut as low as you can get it, if running rougher water lift the strut a bit higher as this will plant the ass in the water more at speed.
                I have always known the rule of strut height to be opposite to this.

                Dropping the strut will lift the ass up thereby causing the boat to run more "wet"

                Raising the strut will cause the prop to be "searching" for water, thereby dropping the ass and raising the bow. Causing the boat to run "loose"

                Ofcourse assuming that the struts angle is set to neutral.

                I think thats it

                Jimmy
                Come to the FASST side

                Comment

                • ozzie-crawl
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2008
                  • 2865

                  #68
                  i think that was my quote, as i said i asked this same question awhile back and never received a straight answer.
                  i thought rule of thumb strut height adjusts the rear of the hull, strut angle the bow or is this more relative for a cat than a mono ?
                  biggest problem i see is there is so many variables with any setup

                  Comment

                  • FastVee
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 649

                    #69
                    Thanks a lot you guys again for your help and intrest of this build.

                    I did slot the strut holes a bit..for future adjustments.(NOT! -accidentally managed to drill the holes a bt too low, so I had to slot them to get the strut higher) -I did meseaure it twice, but the stupid ruler markings confused me this time


                    Anyway the strut is mounted and the rudder is next to go.

                    But there is some cog question rising here... the cog is at the same spot in the 3 last pic(finger shows the spot on 2 pics, 3rd had the same spot but i misplaced my finger.

                    If I would mount the motor 8-9 cm from transom there is enough of room to do maintanence on coupler and the motor screws can be opened with ease, but the scuff tube will have some bend on it.

                    If the motor goes at front the scuff tube has very little bend on it. I would like to mount the motor close to the transom so I have plenty of room to choose different size batteries in the future.

                    Pics to clarify things.

                    And the motor mount is great, but should I cut some f/g off it so it would sit lower?
                    Attached Files
                    www.youtube.com/rangerpate

                    Comment

                    • FastVee
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 649

                      #70
                      Rudder is on. Hopefully in the right spot.
                      Attached Files
                      www.youtube.com/rangerpate

                      Comment

                      • Flying Scotsman
                        Fast Electric Adict!
                        • Jun 2007
                        • 5190

                        #71
                        This is the interesting part of your build. There are no set rules, especially if you change out the motor etc. in the future.

                        Setup your COG as others have mentioned with ALL components roughly in place. I personally would move the motor further back. My 2 cents and be carefull you do not setup a wet running hull

                        Douggie

                        Comment

                        • FastVee
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 649

                          #72
                          The only way to get the cog where you guys told me (using these batteries) is to mount the motor further back(like Douggie wrote)

                          This is the closest to transom I can put it, any closer and the coupler is not that easy to work with.


                          Should I do this mod to the motor mount? -only needs 2 more holes and it can go really deep in the v.

                          Found a new prop too.
                          Attached Files
                          www.youtube.com/rangerpate

                          Comment

                          • ED66677
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 1300

                            #73
                            agree with Douggie, put the motor as far in the back as possible, consider maintenance/motor removal, on my 29" copy, the rear of the motor is 1" in front of the hatch opening and I would love to have it further in the back, with 2x2S 4900mAh Rhino's cog is at 185mm from transom and running without trim tabs is where you want to be
                            Emmanuel
                            I'm french but I doubt I really am!
                            http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

                            Comment

                            • Flying Scotsman
                              Fast Electric Adict!
                              • Jun 2007
                              • 5190

                              #74
                              As an aside are you Finnish. My dad was the honorary Finnish consul for Scotland in the 60's he spent 3 years there when he was young and learning the timber buisness and had very fond memories

                              Douggie

                              Comment

                              • Brod
                                Senior Member
                                • May 2009
                                • 196

                                #75
                                Will the cooler tube and the water nipples fit on if you mount it that low?
                                Brod..
                                Slow gets boring fast.

                                Comment

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