Delta 29" copy build -help needed!

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  • ksm2001
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 377

    #31
    Just did a weigh in on both of my hulls without lipos.

    DF29 knockoff = 2084g
    SV stock setup = 1645g

    The 8xl, esc, motor mount and hatch add more weight than the same 4 components on the sv.

    I know that the hatch on my DF is quite heavy, the fiberglass is thicker than the hull, not sure why they made it so thick. But like Douggie mentioned when you run these speeds some extra weight can be a benefit for stability, in the video if you look at the chop I was running in at 57mph I couldn't run my SV at 40mph. Lipos are quite light where as before we had NiMH which were heavy and not as much jam.

    Here are some pics of my motor placement before and after to get the 28% CG and a shot of the transom view.

    The SV strut and rudder should work good. The 1/8 height I think your referring to is the angle of the strut? I meant this as the height to bolt it onto the transom, I have a 1mm positive (up) on my strut. Try setting everything neutral first and go from there.

    My SV with a x642 will pull 65 amps max and average around 35-45amps measured with my Eagle Tree, (needles to say this is probably the cause for the problems I ended up having with the stock SV esc surging and replaced it with a 120amp). As for props I agree with Douggie's recommendation with the x440 or x637 first, I think the x642 will be to much for the esc.

    Ken
    Attached Files
    DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

    Comment

    • tylerm
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2007
      • 310

      #32
      My one was a heavier layup than the standard hulls apparently and weighed in at 1.8 pounds bare. Still moves out tho.

      Comment

      • FastVee
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2008
        • 649

        #33
        Thanks for the pics Ken.

        I actuallly ment that 1/8" as the mounting location, not angle but you have positive angle on yours so maybe I should mount mine higher up , and have the strut at level. -I only want to drill holes once...

        And the info I gathered is not very consistent on strut height, some say 1/4 and some 1/8 , some say at the top of the hole, some bottom or center... So there is not "magigal spot" on every hardware that is best place to put stuff ... I think that bigger the prop, higher the strut can be mounted?

        Does the hull weight have any impact on Amp draw? -I have used X642 on my sv with 25/40C lipos for an year now, and no heat (or any) issues at all.
        (and that was with the bec in esc, now I have the Castle BEC soldered on)


        I dont have any data loggers though, so no idea of Amps.

        I cant get a new prop atm, so I´ll start with sv´s stock crappy one.

        The Prather 220 should be less Amp hungry then X642 too?

        So rearward weight is good on this hull? -so how far back should the motor mount go?

        Lipos at front motor at back with ESC , and servo where the SV linkages will allow .



        -Pate
        Last edited by FastVee; 07-18-2009, 02:26 AM.
        www.youtube.com/rangerpate

        Comment

        • tth
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2008
          • 1510

          #34
          Here are a couple pic's of my DF29. I'd be glad to help if you have any questions.
          Attached Files
          * BBY Lift Master RIgger * Insane Gen 2 Cat * Aeromarine Avenger Pro Twin * Delta Force Cyber Storm * Delta Force 41" Mono * H&M Viper II * H&M Intruder * OSE Raider Hydro * Whiplash 20 * Brushless Mini Rio *

          Comment

          • ozzie-crawl
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2008
            • 2865

            #35
            i asked the same question on stinger height awhile back and also got conflicting answers, this is what i think, running flat-small chop have the strut as low as you can get it, if running rougher water lift the strut a bit higher as this will plant the ass in the water more at speed. i run in small to flat chop and i drilled my hole 8mm from the bottom of the V runs nice and stable

            Comment

            • FastVee
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2008
              • 649

              #36
              That sounds logical Ozzie.

              That 8mm you have, is it at the center of that hole?
              www.youtube.com/rangerpate

              Comment

              • Brod
                Senior Member
                • May 2009
                • 196

                #37
                Originally posted by FastVee
                Thanks for the pics Ken.

                I actuallly ment that 1/8" as the mounting location, not angle but you have positive angle on yours so maybe I should mount mine higher up , and have the strut at level. -I only want to drill holes once...

                And the info I gathered is not very consistent on strut height, some say 1/4 and some 1/8 , some say at the top of the hole, some bottom or center... So there is not "magigal spot" on every hardware that is best place to put stuff ... I think that bigger the prop, higher the strut can be mounted?

                Does the hull weight have any impact on Amp draw? -I have used X642 on my sv with 25/40C lipos for an year now, and no heat (or any) issues at all.
                (and that was with the bec in esc, now I have the Castle BEC soldered on)


                I dont have any data loggers though, so no idea of Amps.

                I cant get a new prop atm, so I´ll start with sv´s stock crappy one.

                The Prather 220 should be less Amp hungry then X642 too?

                So rearward weight is good on this hull? -so how far back should the motor mount go?

                Lipos at front motor at back with ESC , and servo where the SV linkages will allow .



                -Pate
                My strut exits at the bottom of the hull,as Ozz says in calm water runs true and firm,in rougher water a bit looser.You'll propably find it dosnt make much differance high or low on these hulls for sport running.
                Start with a X440,mine runs great with this prop,lowish amps,and fast.these small hulls dont need much more prop,again just sport running.

                And just to confuse you even more FastV i mount my motors towards the front and the batts. at the rear..
                Reason; a longer shaft keeps less water rising up the tube when running.
                Brod..
                Slow gets boring fast.

                Comment

                • ozzie-crawl
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2008
                  • 2865

                  #38
                  [QUOTE=Brod;108325]My strut exits at the bottom of the hull,as Ozz says in calm water runs true and firm,in rougher water a bit looser.You'll propably find it dosnt make much differance high or low on these hulls for sport running.
                  .[/Qoute;

                  with the df or copies a loose hull is a fast hull
                  8mm to the centre

                  Comment

                  • FastVee
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 649

                    #39
                    Brod, I want every bit of info you guys have, so it is good to read how you build yours too. -this wont confuse me

                    I have never had issues of water rising thrue scuff tube, I have allways installed a piece of fuel tube on prop end(between the strut and drive dog) and that has kept it dry.

                    This hull has nice and big opening, so many places to mount stuff.


                    And the prop thing is that I cant order anything this month, so if I want this thing running asap, I´ll need to use the ones I have.

                    So sv prop must be the less amp hungry one, K45 a bit more , 220 a bit more then that and x642 more then 220?

                    The x642 has been in my sv for one year and no issues at all( I get 2 5min runs with 5300 lipos). -And many use the K48 on SV too!

                    So (iI know I asked this b4) is this a bit larger and heavier hull really that much more pain to the esc? -that I cant use the x642 from the start? (offcource I will keep runs short at first)
                    Last edited by FastVee; 07-18-2009, 09:15 AM.
                    www.youtube.com/rangerpate

                    Comment

                    • ksm2001
                      Senior Member
                      • Jun 2007
                      • 377

                      #40
                      The reason for moving my motor to the back more after was to get the 28% CG. Before it was ahead I could only get 30 % min and ran to wet on calm water. I think if I was to do another build of this hull I would do as Brod did and mount the batteries in the back and motor in front to make it easier to get 28% + or - CG. It doesn't really matter where you place the motor but I would set all the hardware in first and batts so you can play with the CG and get it right before you install the parts permanent.

                      As alot of others would suggest start with the smallest prop you have first and run it for minute and check your temps, hate to see you put the x642 on and find it just smoked your esc on the first run. The DF29 is a bit bigger and being that it's heavier it will draw more amps.

                      Take your time and you should be fine.

                      Keep us posted

                      BTW nice setup tth

                      Ken
                      DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

                      Comment

                      • tth
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 1510

                        #41
                        Thanks Ken, I appreciate that. Lots of time was spent getting things
                        "just right". My 29" DF is my favorite mono. I like it better than my
                        33"DF !!!!
                        * BBY Lift Master RIgger * Insane Gen 2 Cat * Aeromarine Avenger Pro Twin * Delta Force Cyber Storm * Delta Force 41" Mono * H&M Viper II * H&M Intruder * OSE Raider Hydro * Whiplash 20 * Brushless Mini Rio *

                        Comment

                        • Flying Scotsman
                          Fast Electric Adict!
                          • Jun 2007
                          • 5190

                          #42
                          with an X642


                          Douggie

                          Comment

                          • FastVee
                            Senior Member
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 649

                            #43
                            Ok ok, I got it . So the x642 is too much.

                            Weird thing is that my friend uses P225(larger then x642)on his Sv and no problems there (he has 230 to try next...told him not to ,but idk what he will do next ).

                            So this 29" hull must be some kind of esc smoker by design.

                            The stock sv prop is the smallest one I have, is it safe to try that?

                            And if I would mod the P220 I have, lets say I´ll take a mm off each blade, is that any safer on the esc?

                            I dont know much about hydrodynamics, so pitch/dia/Amp trinity is confusing


                            And do you guys epoxy the inside of the hull? -or just the ply´s? -I would think that epoxy would make cleaning easier if the esc or something else would fail -and flex lube wouldn´t stuck on f/g... -but it would add some weight.

                            -Pate
                            Last edited by FastVee; 07-20-2009, 10:57 AM.
                            www.youtube.com/rangerpate

                            Comment

                            • Flying Scotsman
                              Fast Electric Adict!
                              • Jun 2007
                              • 5190

                              #44
                              The SV27 motor and ESC were designed for an RTR 27" boat. You now have a very different boat in length and hull design. I would be wary of the 3 bladed standard SV27 prop on that ESC with a wet running hull. The ESC is limiting your options

                              Douggie

                              Comment

                              • FastVee
                                Senior Member
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 649

                                #45
                                I guess I need to wait then -and order a smaller prop. -why do I live so far away from ose......takes about a week to get parts from ose to the customs here and then few more days to pick them up from there...

                                Any prop that will be safe and delivers ok speeds?
                                x440/2 blade? -you guys like it, I get that, but I have much cheaper electronics here then you, so idk.

                                p215 -still too much?

                                and what about that 220 if i mod it some? -will it be any safer or not if I´ll take few mm´s off.

                                (I need to learn the mm/pitch/A stuff somehow )

                                And if the ESC goes or , what will it exactly do to the rest of the boat?
                                www.youtube.com/rangerpate

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