traxxas villan build

[j.m.]

Or just packing tape works. The surface quality won't be too much of an issue I'd think, you just don't want to have to sand TOO much of the ABS away.

This boat is turning out great...

Jon

[20psinow]

thanks j.m. for now im gonna get this wood epoxyd in there and start on the fiberglass, still have to find a place to do that its way to cold to do it where im at.. and once thats done fill in the holes and pant the entire boat, then get the hardwaer... and when the time comes would it be smart to look in to the sv27 (stinger drive) and rudder set up? i know it may be a little more but would it be worth it?

[j.m.]

Sure, if you want a flex cable setup do it! It will cost a little more though.

[20psinow]

ahh well when the time comes i find out what im doing for sure still leaning on the 4mm shaft..

[j.m.]

You can do that to start with and then upgrade later?

It's only $10...

If it doesn't work out you could always make something else out of it.

[20psinow]

well sleeping on the sv27 hardwear i think that would be the way to go! i gonna just do it right the first time and not kick my self in the ass latter over it.. i got some new tools its a nedle file set thats for the prop i just need a blancer now to start that deal but thats latter on when i get that going.. this weekend im hopeing to get the glass work done at a buddys house. he has layed glass befor and is going to give me tips and let me use his house to finish the work and some time this week i should have the wood epoxyed in and the holes filled in on the back...

[j.m.]

Same needle file set I have!! $10 @ HD!!

The handle's useless, find something else to do with it. :P

That's good that you'll have somebody to show you how to fiberglass the first time around, always helps.

Don't forget to soak up the excess with paper towels, the extra epoxy adds no strength, just weight. And why not do the transom ply while your at it?

Try and make paper templates of the fiberglass first, then cut your glass out with those long before you mix epoxy. Make sure they fit and you are satisfied with everything before any glue gets hard.

About the hardware, the AQ strut doesn't come with a bushing. That's another $10, so you might as well go with the top notch hardware.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-21-strut

And something inexpensive for the rudder:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=dh-prb3756

Jon

[20psinow]

should i do the glass the ply? i thought about it but just thought that would add weight... i know about the excess with paper towels trick read that on a link from google.. and should i do the side of the boat to? i know that is probly over the top but its in my head to do it.. i was going to do the transom just to cover up the ply and give a nice clean look in side of the boat but never thought to ask about it..

[j.m.]

Fiberglassing the transom won't add a noticeable amount of weight, you'll want to seal the wood with epoxy anyways.

You can do the sides, sure. I just don't know how much room you'll have to work with.

Do a large rectangle(s) for the bottom of the hull, and a separate piece(s) for the transom. What weight glass did you get again?

[20psinow]

the glass is bondo home solutions and ment for anyhing.. just a package of it and it 9 sq. ft and dont know how thick it is..

[j.m.]

I think I remembered reading somewhere that was about 10 oz. a sq yd, so it's just the right weight for one layer of cloth to be enough.

Your not going to get the cloth to bend up the sides of the hull and stay in place with the epoxy, that stuff is going to be pretty stiff.

[20psinow]

haha well it looks thin and light but i know all to well thats not the truth with something if i dont need to do the sides i wont but i will do the transom the best i can.. so i should just do one layer and not 2? if thats the case im kinda happy less work and i hope it cures faster.. im going to be doing this at a buddys house when its 30* and a set of heat lamps, not to close just around to heat the air around the boat to help it cure

[20psinow]

well i have not had much time to work on her but this weekend i will get the wood work in the transom... i picked up some oke for work today and had a chunk left over and took it home and when to the cheap tool store and pick some c-clamps up so i can hold the wood in place wile the epoxy cures and will snap some pics as i go along.. i thinking the oke will make a great base for the motor mount in the v hull going to try and make it as low as i can so the cable dose not bind... i have a few qustions on were i should mount the motor and CG in the boat.. should i set it up just like you would the SV27? i going to order the SV27 hardware next weekend or the motor and mount and ESC.. what ever i feel like getting my self for my B-day gift to my self and use the other money i get for what i did not buy.. and i also think im not going to glass the transom im just going to seal it and glass the bottom of the boat... if i could find out where to place the oke i could glass that in to the bottom of the boat....

[20psinow]

well i epoxyed the first pice in and clamped it down we will see how this turns out and then ill start the bottom one..

[bwells]

Jon: It appears that 20psinow is going with a flex shaft but I like your idea of the straight shaft and flex coupler. You mentioned extending it 3 inches from the transom and to keep the base of the rudder at the height of the drive dog. Is the rudder placed inline with the prop in order to use the prop wash as the means for steering? If the rudder is offset, say at the strake, do to the deep vee, it would put what looks to be about an inch in the water. Is this sufficient? Thanks.