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well no police around me lol just on the lake every now and then... but really what i read is what im going to use.. it all in the past from what people have done that work best is what im going to do.. tonight just drinken so not much getting done so tomarrow is a new day hope to get the expoy on tomarrow when i go and pick up the cleaner and then sand down time.. gonna do this build right this time thinking of paint right now.. (green black, and dule white) my work colors... but the fiber glass has to come first and going to cut the wood tomarrow or early next week..
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Yeah but they arent frequency police- i dont believe they actually existComment
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hey J.M. would it be out of the qustion if id just fiber glass the back of the boat? insted of useing the ply.. i could still use the ply to support the stuffing tube at the front/back or will i still need the ply in the back due to the fact that im not using a strut... im gonna have to cut the wood out and cut in 2 there is an angle that the wood is going to bend in the center so all in all can i get away with the fiber glass on the back and support the tube front and back (with ply) and maybe glass/epoxy the far rear of the tube?Comment
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well having the day off today i got to epoxy some stuff on the boat and ripped out the foam and cut to a smaller peace that fits nicey in the niose.. by the end of the week i should have my wood cut out i made some temps so will see how them work out... need to do some sanding tomarrow when the epoxy is cured
its ez to smooth out..
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I've been watching your thread and I'm very interested in J.M.'s ideas. The combination stuffing tube/stinger is cool and he appears to be keeping you under budget. I noticed he has not been on for a few days and I see your dilemma on the ply to transom. Post 36 pic 3 shows the concave transom very well. I'm assuming you will need turn fins but they would need to be mounted up through the 2 flat portions on each side which would need to have ply also. Would it be possible to cut these long toward the bow to at least shim that flush with the center? The upper rectangle appears to be straight so I would use that as the starting point. I noticed in one of your pics some bass wood. By using some differing thickness strips epoxied upright as shims to give you a flat surface for the ply across the transom could be a possibility. This may not work if you plan on trim tabs though. Just some thoughts and hopefully J.M. chimes in soon. Looking good so far.Comment
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After sleeping on it, the shim idea seems a bit cheesy and time consuming. What about laminating multiple layers of thin bass wood to the transom and clamping them to the existing curve. The only thing bolted appears to be the rudder and it may be to the rectangular area and some trim tabs maybe. At least the thing would be rigid. Good luck.Comment
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well looking at the (ply) it being only 1/16 is able to flex i just need to get some clamps on there to hold it in place wile the epoxy cures. the rudder will be bolted to the flat on top and i dont know if i should extend it out behind the deck to get clean water flow over the rudder.. still dont have hardware yet but i will order it as soon as the glassing gets done..
i have thought about useing turn fins but dont know it i will really need them being that im a big wussy and will slow way down to turn 
but the trim tabs would be nice.. the water it will run on is choppy most of the time 3" to 7" but i for see my self swiming a lot this summer because i will get cocky with the go triger.. tomorrow maybe to night going to sand the hull and prep for glassing and hope to have it all knock out this weekend and ready for the good stuff... and by the way this is the first build i have ever done out side of plaine stuff even then they were ARF's..
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Hold off on mounting the rudder, you want the tip even with the drive dog.
Sounds good to me for the ply.Comment
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If your plan is to follow the curve on the triangle, I have been thinking off and on all day about how to jive the rectangle into the bottom part and kept coming up with the same idea. It seems to me ( I am a newbie also) that this would be important so you can use ply that would encompass both the rectangle and the triangle as one surface. Is the triangle sloped rearward as opposed to the face of the rectangle? Please say NO, Please say NO!Comment
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well just thought id share some pics... sanded the epoxy (that some hard stuff by the way) and started to cut the ply for the back of the boat.. only have one peace so far but going to cut more off them tonight or tomorrow..Comment
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Your hull is looking GREAT!!
Now for those holes... Once the ply is in place, you can just fill them from the outside with thickened epoxy, and paint if you really feel it's necessary.
JonComment
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this is some good info look for the p-offshore read the whole story and watch the vids
i pretty much did the same thing to my villian but, i made the rear transom flat and use some inline mono hardware ose sold a few years back. i used a 700 motor and 12 cellsComment
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well i got the rest of the ply cut only going to 2 on top and 2 on bottom.. then ill go back and fill in some of the cracks and then go on the back and epoxy the holes up.. going to repaint the hole boat but dont know the theam yet but theres some pics of the ply and what is should look like in the boat (there not mounted yet)Comment
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I used some wax paper placed over the holes and held in place with packaging tape from the outside of the transom. After the epoxy dried from glueing in the wood, I removed the tape and the holes were filled with no sanding needed. Just a thought. Looks good!Comment
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