Miss Geico Lets see what this thing can do!

[bbosncali]

Thanks bro. What size wire drive did you get? I've got a new .078 one from jeff sitting down there I havent used.

Same size from jeff I took it out for a quick trial run it seems like it takes a little longer to get going but once it does its like letting a wind up toy go.. and it just shoots... I figure its because I'm running such a big prop m645. I just ordered a wire from ben over at fightercat same size for my df I know ill get it in like 2 days hope it handles the power of my 1717

[JPriami]

Starting over with a new miss gecio. Ran it almost stock for the first time this weekend. I had a x642 prop on it the rest was stock. Ran decent. Other than bounce and not as fast as I like.

Last night I did some slight changes while I wait for my kintec rudder mount.
Going to try a T180 with 5mm connectors on the motor and esc with the stock motor.
With a 4S config and a 5S config when the other packs show up.

[jasoncyclone]

Will the stock motor handle the 5s with a 180 esc????

[Smoothops]

Will the stock motor handle the 5s with a 180 esc????

I have ran 5s no problem and even 6s for a quick pass on m445 prop, motor was really hot on 5s with 8 mins of run time....

[JPriami]

I'm going to use my 642 prop. Stock motor on 5S and a 445 prop is stressing it.

[JPriami]

well MG #2 will be ready for a test tomorrow I hope. Still not finished But I want to test out the electronics. Then I'll blue print the bottom of the boat.

Here is my solution for using the octura motor collets and the stock mount.



Just used the barrel sander on the dremel to make some clearance.

The boats been fiberglass reinforced all down the seams and has an extra layer of glass and resin in the mid to back area for added strength. Sponson tips have great stuff foam in them. I'll be adding yellow pool noodle for flotation as well. after i see where the battery packs need to be fore sure in testing I will then put the trays back inside the boat but trim them down a little to get the batteries to sit lower in the hull. I may add a 2nd water pick up, But not sure till I run and see how the single rudder one works with the t-180 & 4074 1800Kv being run between 4 & 6S.

[JPriami]

Heck I want to go try it now lol. Can't wait for tomorrow.
Got a new radio to try to. $35 with a ton of features. Works good on my mini revo so I put another rx in this boat.

[dana]

quick note: when using "y" connector and going from 2 lines to 1 what you make is a bottleneck. think of a huge crowd of people trying to get into walmart for after thanksgiving sale. to many people trying to squeeze thru… same goes for what youre doing. jmo =)

[JPriami]

Thanks. But I don't have a Y connector in this. Right now it's single in single out. I have another pickup I may install if I feel it needs it. Then I'll be using that 2nd outlet you see in the back (one on each side)

[Smoothops]

That remote works great i have one in MG, SV-27, Rustler, Jato, Grinder monster jam, and bandit. @ 7.50 for recivers you cant go wrong.

[JPriami]

Today was no good. It was raining off and on. I tried to go between rain showers and did get a good window to go. I ran the boat on 14.8v to test it out. Boat still had some bounce (porposing)(spelling?) I have tried the strut level with bottom of ride pads also tried it with the strut just a little above bottom of ride pads and a slight negative prop angle. With batteries all the way forward on the stock tray area.
Ran it a few to warm it up and check temps. Seemed ok. Then ran a little more and started to hear a squeal. Brought it in and motor was pretty warm and sounded like the squeal was from motor. So I packed up and went home. Didn't even get to finish the first set of lipo packs.
Went through motor and all seemed ok. Found out it was the drive line making noise. Took apart the strut and removed Teflon liner. Replaced it with one that was a little longer because the stock one seemed short. Long story short I fix it.
But before I did I thought the motor got hot and it was because it wasnt getting cooled enough so I went ahead and added the 2nd pickup to supply it. But turns out I think the motor got hot because the driveline was binding when it warmed up or maybe the motor slipped down a little and the line up was causing the bind. Idk.

Hope to try again tomorrow.

Here is the 2nd pickup.




I also found if I use a little piece of cooling line over the end of my stuffing tube it keeps the grease from working it's way out and slinging around. Also helps hold the teflon liner in place a bit.


Edit: ok later i found that the 9" cog I hear about is measured from the back of the sponsons. So after looking at that I found my cog was a little back from that reference point. And that the stock location of my battery trays were to far back.

I resined over my trays and then cut them down so that they will sit lower in the sponsons too. I'll reattach them back into the boat once i find the sweet spot.

[JPriami]

Not good with the leopard 4074 1800kv on 5S and Octura x642. Motor and esc were around 125 but the wires were all pretty hot.

Also idk if the location of my 2nd water pickup was good idea. It moves water pretty good. But i think it hangs down too much and creates more drag than I thought. Im either going to disconnect it and use the rudder to cool the system while i make passes and keep raising the 2nd pickup till it stops shooting water out so I can see how high I can place it vs drag factor to see if I should just relocate it.

Boat ran smoother today with batteries more forward. Got it dialed in on 4S then went to 5S and it started a slight bounce again tho.

I'm ditching the leopard 4074 1800kv for this boat. By the way that motor was labeled a car motor (can be found on bottom of the box it comes in). I found out that the difference between the car motors and the boat motors is within the rotor. The boat motors have more torque than the car motors and that's important in boats. So I'm going back to the two castle motors I had for the first MG.

[JPriami]

Better results this afternoon thank goodness.

Castle 1520 & P225 prop

4S 40mph
5S 50mph
6S 60mph

Temps 100-125 ranges
Peak amps were 181
Peak watts 3796

I found the boat runs better with strut up. I'm going to have to cut some more off the back trailing edge and relocate the mounting holes for the kintec offset rudder slightly more forward to trim the rest off. Prop clears it now it's just close. I want good clearance.
2nd water pickup was able to be raised about 1/2 from first mounting condition and still works well with less drag.

Going to try the castle 1518 motor next.

[JPriami]

[JPriami]

Got the new 1518 in. Also trimmed the strut/rudder bracket & relocated holes for mount. Good prop clearance and not as much to get sprayed with by the spinning prop.

Before


After