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Your last pic, you didn't sand the tub before gluing down the front skid plate? Are you planning to level that?, you have a big gap in there. You should. 
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it sez to leave leave that part sticking up to shed water is that not right?? also I plan on filling that gapComment
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Accord is correct.
That instruction is on sheet 11 of the instructions. They want to you sand in a bevel on the aft sheet allowing the front to sit flat with a sharp trailing edge...Comment
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Yes, as longballlumber stated. Two things, 1. It is to be level with the tub, so the AOA matches the design specs, and 2. it is the hardest part of the build I felt. It takes a lot of time to sand that area to get it at the right angle. Do take the time to make it flat and even. It's the main part that the front of the rigger the water rides on to get the rigger on plane.Comment
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Strengthen the ply rudder bracket, otherwise it will snap if you start pushing the speed.Comment
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that's what the pic shows on page 19 is this not correct? is sez to leave the front plate edge flat at the end
another question>>>>>>>>> someone said to reinforce the ply rudder piece, how many have cut that off and used the metal rudder extension that came with the kit??Last edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015, 03:26 PM.Comment
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It's difficult to see in your picture because it's so fuzzy, but it does look like there is a gap. I found a different picture that helps I hope. circled area is where you should have sanded and the red outline is the skin that gets glued on.
the question is; from a side view is there a GAP between the front skin (or sheeting) and the tub sides?Comment
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am aware of the gap just waiting to fill it in, but does the end sticking up where the water sheds look right?Comment
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Also like Martin said, if you plan to run a hot motor and do high speed turns, re-enforce the rudder.Comment
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this help? like I said that gap will be filled on both sidesLast edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015, 08:45 PM.Comment
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Yes that helps, but again, this is still not how it's supposed to be built per the specs of the plans as the AOA is off. Will it effect the hulls attitude? Not sure, I built per the plans. It's up to you if you do not wish to build it per the plans. It is to be flush with the hull not laid on top and then filled in. I'm sure the JAE designer(s) would have done it your way if it was right or better, but did not for a reason. A lot of designing went into this hull, but again it's up to you.
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well then will just have to get it right, heres something else that doesn't make sense and have read it 10 times! the plans say to put the sponson rib with the 1/8 holes on the right inside foam sponson, but howbout the rib that has the holes for the dowls ?? I don't get it
never mind was a bit tricky till I looked on pg 28 and figured it outLast edited by riversidedan; 09-22-2015, 11:55 PM.Comment
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I would cut the front bottom sheet off and refit it as per the instructions if you can, i doubt the way you have done it will noticablt affect the running of it as it is only a small AoA difference in a part that doesnt often toucht the water when up and running, but it would have a lot more glueing area for strength.
I followed the written instructions you have there and did it the opposite way round to how you have it in that photo, and would do so again. The screws go through the turnfin and the small holes on the inside of the sponson and into the dowels, all the force on the turnfin is then trying to pull the large dowels through the small holes which is impossible. The way you have it there it would be possible (though unlikely) for the force on the turn fin to pull the dowels out of the sponson (the one with the big holes goes on the other (out)side of the sponson). However it is not critical, the online instructions say you can do it either way, and actually recommend it is done the way you have it in your photo for ease of building.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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Yes that is correct. You got it. You can add a rudder reinforcement like Martin suggested also. If you look in my gallery you can see how I did mine with spare wood left over from the kit. Zipkits should just add that to the design as the wood it there and just have to shape it a little to make it work.
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