Largest Motor/ESC Combo In JAE Mini Sprint

[riversidedan]

your white rigger looks real good, how come no water kooling?

[SweetAccord]

your white rigger looks real good, how come no water kooling?

Thank you, it's because a 60a ESC does not need it? The kit specs a 50A so 10 amps over the spec works well.

[SweetAccord]

FYI to all these are actually Scorpion motors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=25677

I ordered two and they say Scorpion on them. These are great outrunners! Enjoy!

[riversidedan]

sounds good and my question is, what does ESC amp size have to do with a ESC not being water kooled?? I had assumed all marine boats had to have the ESC/motor kooled, am I wrong?


anyway making progress but the right sponson needs tweaking, don't worry I just threw the sponsons on for the pic

[SweetAccord]

sounds good and my question is, what does ESC amp size have to do with a ESC not being water kooled?? I had assumed all marine boats had to have the ESC/motor kooled, am I wrong?

If the ESC is rated higher that the motor rating/pulls in amps, and the ESC does not over heat for the full time of the run, you don't need to water cool it. Plus it's a airplane ESC anyways, they are not water cooled they are air cooled but since it does not heat up and is over rated why need water cooling.

[riversidedan]

I gotta say after much sanding tweaking and getting everything square its fianally coming together but did run into some problems along the way that were my fault. Anyone thinking about this kit will not be disappointed! For a mere $100 you get everything except motor, esc,servo and radio, everythings their.
still have some things to do but very happy with the kit and wont hesitate to buy another

the scale sez a bit under 8 oz dry

[NativePaul]

Your photography has come a long way in a short time as well as your building skills.

[SweetAccord]

I agree with Paul. Looks good! Before you finish her up, do enforce the rudder a little. Add a piece of triangle or straight dowel between the rudder and the rear transom. Below is a pic of my version 2 as on my first one I did it on the outside but then realized it was overkill for my type of running. The other way is less weight and will provide rudder support but depends what you are doing on the water with it. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hmentid=136685 and http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hmentid=136676. You can see I added a square block between the rudder and transom that is level with the rudder to give that little area more support. You can do it on the outside or the inside. Outside will be stronger for the best support, inside will be less stronger but is all you need if you are not doing high speed turns and just straight runs. You also can add bearing in the drive line. It's not that hard to add in.

[riversidedan]

thanx guyz and you prolly didn't know Ive been building models for around 40 years and have had some sucsessful boat experience around 2000, then the airplane fever hit me again, now its back to these very neat fast electrix! Thank goodness I ran across the great Mini rigger kit so that's what got me started again, and yes the triangle piece would be a good mod. Am also interested with that stuffing tube bearing thing and have some sitting around that would prolly fit, also curious about that wire drive thing and wanting to know the advantages,see ya again with more questions and thanx for the help.

[riversidedan]

another question>>>>>>>I think the manual sez to dump some epoxy into the inside of the ski where the stuffing tube fits to make a fillet so the water wont get in, well Ive already glued on the ski so wondering if I could make the fillet outside, or if Im lucky drip some glue inside the ski where the tube in then keep working the tub so it wont get glued in, or howbout smearing silicone on the outside to seal the hole, get the picture?

[SweetAccord]

thanx guyz and you prolly didn't know Ive been building models for around 40 years and have had some sucsessful boat experience around 2000, then the airplane fever hit me again, now its back to these very neat fast electrix! Thank goodness I ran across the great Mini rigger kit so that's what got me started again, and yes the triangle piece would be a good mod. Am also interested with that stuffing tube bearing thing and have some sitting around that would prolly fit, also curious about that wire drive thing and wanting to know the advantages,see ya again with more questions and thanx for the help.

I did wire drive for a few reasons. The main reason was not having to remove it to lube it. I run a lube tube I made down the copper shaft tube and add lube or oil. I also like the collette on a wire drive as it holds better with less tear on the motor coupler. Also a wire drive has way less mass so the centrifugal force can reach higher speeds and does not compress under speed, one less thing to worry about binding.

[SweetAccord]

another question>>>>>>>I think the manual sez to dump some epoxy into the inside of the ski where the stuffing tube fits to make a fillet so the water wont get in, well Ive already glued on the ski so wondering if I could make the fillet outside, or if Im lucky drip some glue inside the ski where the tube in then keep working the tub so it wont get glued in, or howbout smearing silicone on the outside to seal the hole, get the picture?

Yes!! Add in both places and seal off. Pour some in on the outside if can't on inside area just for support alone, + it will water seal off that area. That area is under stress/load and needs to be strong and sealed off. It's the last part that exists the hull and holds/supports the shaft spinning at 35xxx RPM+.

[SweetAccord]

As for bearings, you want the following: 1. 1/8 x 1/4 x 7/64 flanged and two of the same unflanged or you can also do 3 of the 1/8x1/4x7/64 unflanged and place 3 in there like I did. Either way works. If and when I ever remove the drive line again I may put a flanged in but it's not critical as the 3 unflanged are held in by the existing shaft tube. Amazon has these bearings. Boca bearings are nice too. Be sure to spray with any type of corrosion resistant spray to help make them last.

[SweetAccord]

another question>>>>>>>I think the manual sez to dump some epoxy into the inside of the ski where the stuffing tube fits to make a fillet so the water wont get in, well Ive already glued on the ski so wondering if I could make the fillet outside, or if Im lucky drip some glue inside the ski where the tube in then keep working the tub so it wont get glued in, or howbout smearing silicone on the outside to seal the hole, get the picture?

Also, measure the shaft tube with both sides of the transom/hull to make sure it's centered exiting out of the hull. Even at a slight angle will make it run more to the left or right, which will call for more or less left/right rudder adjustment when running.

[riversidedan]

ok so which one would you advise on the outside of the ski, silicone or epoxy?