Largest Motor/ESC Combo In JAE Mini Sprint

[cjs]

I doubt I have any pics floating around of it, it was a couple months after the kits came out. I thought the batts were in front of the motor, but I could be completely mistaken too, it was a while ago.

I am going to pick up one of these kits and see what I come up with.

I appreciate all of the info coming from everyone in this thread.
-Chris

[NativePaul]

That is a Castle Creations Ice Lite 50 ESC, with 2 added Panasonic extra low ESR 105C capacitors, I have also run a Castle Phoenix 35 modded for watercooling, but upgraded for the datalogging and it doesn't get hot enough to worry about.

I recently switched motors form my 3000kv Mega 16/15/3 that I use for 5 minute Naviga mini hydro oval racing to the 4400kv 16/15/2 for SAWs, and as I sometimes wreck Orings taking jackets off, and with the limited run time of SAWs I thought I would just disable the water cooling, which was fine, but when I tested the same setup for the new Mini Hydro Sprint class with its 6 lap minute or so runtime it did get uncomfortably hot so I have ordered another jacket for the 2 turn motor, it (or the new boat) will be getting a water cooled motor again.

Mine was from the first batch of kits and the motor is in the stock location, I have seen the JAE plans and they have it in the same place. I think the instructions call for 60% of the weight on the sponsons and 40% on the ski, I probably weighed it the first time, but just hang it from the turn fin now.

Don't be so sure, I run my JAE.21FE with the battery right against the servo in the back and no ski.

[cjs]

Do you also have to use a PiStix since it is an aircraft ESC? Did you have to make program changes to accomodate the inrunner motor?

[NativePaul]

No PixStix, I use an aircraft radio as they are cheaper than ground ones for the same features, I don't use reverse on my boats anyway so having the full stick for forward throttle is an advantage over the half to 2/3rds stick you get on a ground set. Castle ESCs are good and will handle almost any motor, but you will have to try different timings on any ESC to see what suits your setup best.

[cjs]

Thanks again for the information.

-Chris

[SweetAccord]

Finally completed, new pics: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...p?albumid=1346

[SweetAccord]

Do you also have to use a PiStix since it is an aircraft ESC? Did you have to make program changes to accomodate the inrunner motor?

I use a PiStix as I can't use anything but a pistol radio as stick is not as comfortable to use and hold even with a strap for me. I come from a 1/10 car background so pistol comes naturally, others come from aircraft background or just like stick either way, which is all good.

[cjs]

Do your super tiny RXs work with Futaba TXs?

[kacordy]

Paul, I want to try the wire drive. Can you give us more detail on the center strut that is supporting the wire. It appears that the wire is just running through a bronze bushing? I would assume that the water keeps it cool and there is no need for lubrication?

Thanks, Allen

[cjs]

Paul, I want to try the wire drive. Can you give us more detail on the center strut that is supporting the wire. It appears that the wire is just running through a bronze bushing? I would assume that the water keeps it cool and there is no need for lubrication?

Thanks, Allen

X2...

[SweetAccord]

Do your super tiny RXs work with Futaba TXs?

It works with any FM radio. I happen to use it with a Futaba, yes.

[NativePaul]

My super tiiny RX? It's not really super tiny a regular 607 or 617 7 channel full range RX, the sockets are at 90 degrees to the board which often takes up too much space in minis, so I have a couple like this that I have opened up, soldered a couple of short extension leads to pins on the channels I use, masked off the bind button and covered in electronics grade silicone sealant to waterproof, then put back in the case it weighs a bit more than stock, but can fit in places that pins on the side or on the end wont and will run underwater.

For the wire support I cut a slot in the bottom of the hull and fitted a piece of oak I think it is 1.5mmx7mm, I cut a divot along one end of it,, pushed it through the hull until it hit the wire, backed it off a touch glued it to the hull, removed the wire, cyanoed a 7mm long length of brass stuffing tube into the divot, cut off the oak flush inside the hull, fitted the wire again passing it through the support. I never tried it without the support, maybe it is not needed, but it is 20" if wire with less than 3" of stuffing tube, about 14" would have been unsupported, and it looked like that would be too much to me. Neither that or the stuffing tube touch the wire at rest and thrust is taken at the strut so it shouldn't be touching much if the time under way either, I can see that it does touch at times but hopefully just to bring it back into line when it starts whipping, i do oil it at the start of a race day, but frankly I think the friction would be less than a flex even if I filled it with sand. I thought I would be breaking the little 1.5mm struts pretty regularly and wasn't really expecting the cynano to hold the stuffing tube on at all, I thought I would probably have to solder something together out of brass sheet, but that is the original unbroken wood strut and I have only had to re-glue the brass on once and that was after a buoy strike, there must be virtually no load on it.

[riversidedan]

No where near your guys setups and am just starting to build this model, already studied the manual and cant wait to get started, just need to make a tub jig.

[SweetAccord]

Take the time to make the jig perfect and straight. It will make a big difference in the end. Make it adjustable also. Measure in MM to get it precise.

[riversidedan]

heres what we got so far, some of the steps weren't too clear but fianally figured it out. now comes the sponsons