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Mine is 625-650g (22-23oz) RTR depending on whether I run a <110g Naviga pack or a <140g pack for local racing. Mine is built from the kit to the kit instructions epoxied inside and out, painted in 2 colours onto a silver paint base and raced for 4 years with several repairs adding a little weight. I cant get stock (3/16?) carbon tubes here in the UK so when I broke my first set I sleeved the brass down to 4mm and run 4mm solid rods, I didn't fill the ski with epoxy just a little thickened with microballoons on the end to hold it in place and seal it and a dribble underneath it.
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Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing. -
So are those edges on the sponsons only on the front 1/2 ahead of the step ??Last edited by riversidedan; 10-01-2015, 07:12 PM.Comment
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They are on the rear on both and on the rear of the transom of the hull also.
Peek at these pics:
The bottom of the sponson is longer has a 1-2mm lip, it's not an error in design or cut. It's the ride pad(s) of the rigger.Last edited by SweetAccord; 10-01-2015, 08:23 PM.Comment
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b4 I screw up again check this out and tell me if it looks right, BTW had to use 1/8 lite plyComment
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If you are just adding this to the bottom, I don't know how it will run as the AOA is not the same as designed. You can try, I hope it's ok, not seen anyone built it this way before. If you wish to just add to the sponson, the rear is good. Front is not flat but I guess you will just fill it in like you did on the hull too, so yes that is better than before. I hope she runs well for you.Comment
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Aoa?? tell me what I need to make it right, I don't quite get ya, is the 1/8 ply to thick? what I have pictured is just a mock up to see if its right, will then fill in the empty spots, is that all?Comment
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There is no need to overlap the sides like that, you have the right idea with the overlaps on the bottom, although the front sheet could come back a couple of mm to fully overlap the bevel on the rear sheet. AoA is angle of attack, running a 1/8" ride plate will lift the front up but not the back resulting in a higher angle of attack on both the sponsons and the ski, it will tend to make it faster on flat water but more squirrely to drive and not handle rough water as well. thinner ride pads would be better, 1/32 ply, glass, carbon, ABS, etc, also liteply is pretty soft for sponson bottoms and will get dinged easily, if it is really all you have then glue them together over the sponsons without gluing them to the sponsons, and epoxy coat them separately, then try running the boat with and without them to see what works best for you.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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I say RUN IT! if your happy with the performance don't worry about it.
what is the worst case; you buy a new kit for $100 bucks? Then you would have one to lend to a buddy and do some mini racing!
Have Fun,
BallComment
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I just weighed my V2.0 that was my second build for lightness and speed and it's 522 grams, which is 1.151 lbs, no battery all else in running trim.Comment
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ok heres what Im understanding>>>>>>>>> find some thinner material and attach as shown in the pic below using a 2mm over hang on the front edges of the sponson, and fair in the front part
think I found a perfect solution and found some 1/16 FG that will be just right...........about 2 mm over hang on the sides from the step to the front,check out the picLast edited by riversidedan; 10-02-2015, 06:58 PM.Comment
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You don't need the overhangs on the sides unless you are going for a very low power setup.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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Correct and I don't think he is, that is why I mentioned "sand & paint" as that's what it looks like he has done initially and this was just a lets check first before making it permanent.
I hope you (riversidedan) are making it fast as that is just sad to make a rigger a low power setup. 
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will get it figured out and thanx fo the help
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