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NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight= -
Just a thought I never saw any mention about always trying to go full throttle as much as possible. Sometimes people think running at 3/4 or 1/2 throttle is taking it easy and it is the reverse.Comment
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^^^You should listen to this guy.^^^
Not only do I agree with his advice in regards to kv (as I'm sure many people do), he has the same hull and knows how to make it work. Follow his advice and eliminate the headache.
Keep in mind that you're going to get opinions from everyone on a forum. You will get advice regarding your 58" boat from people who have never ran anything close to a 58" boat. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but you have access to someone that DOES have experience with your hull and knows how to make it work, so use that resource!
FWIW, I don't think the escs have been your problem. The SF300 is one of the most resilient escs you can buy.Comment
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In my 10s setup I'm running (2) turnigy 10s packs in parallel which are basicly (4) 5s packs, each pair in series then the (2) pair parallel. I think those Max amp packs were not what they were advertised to be and he really needed 4 of them. And Plus 1 on the KV point, both of my 10s setups are 5698 910kv 45" hydro and 56110 950kv 48" Mono which is a little high strung for 10s but I'm running 52-55mm props on these setups.Comment
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.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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Didnt you cats see the pics ? The hull is TOAST !
And im not getting another one .Theyve been discontinued. Im looking at something a little smaller that is proven to work. Unlike this boat that was an experiment.There was only the one guy that had one that worked well. I wish i could have followed his advise and bought a smaller kv motor but im not rich. Other people tell me it was the maxamps batts.New batts are even more money$$. I had already invested too much in this boat and i was just looking for help making what i had work. And it did work good 7times with the smaller prop.It ran cool and everything .I was running it at full throttle as directed too. And the ESC burst into flames after 150ft
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Hey guys I found a place online that still has some venom king of shaves C1 34", Segad 34" RTRs. Should I pick one up?Any thoughts on the quality of these ?Comment
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Which version?
V1 has two 28xx in runners with rebadged Seaking 60A esc, these motors have build in water jackets on the cans. They are not that durable and on mine one of them overheats. If I am correct, they are 2 pole motors which is why I think it would be a good idea to change to 4 pole motors such as the Leopard 28xx motors. The 60 ESCs are meant for 3s. So you need to have two 3s ,( one for each motor)
V2 has out runner motors and uses the clamp style motor mount. I have that in my KOS P1 and I like that motor setup better.
I would not argue that for that size of a boat, the KOS C34 is very pretty, however, you may be better served with something better, meaning that this RTR still needs some work done before you can tear the "pavement" up, so to speak.
Also, keep in mind that you had a large boat, and while it was running well, it gave you pleasure and excitement that this little boat can't.
Just my $.02
Hope you will find something you really can enjoy, good luck!
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2Too many boats, not enough time...
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Looks like v2. Twin 2700kv outrunners. I know the big boat was fun but I don't have the funds for a build that big. I'm ok with the 34". I like the color scheme of the segad.If I get it what do I need to do to it to make it right?Comment
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Since i don't have the V2, here is what I think: the flex cable is .130 and the shaft is metric, I think it is 4mm, so to run 3/16 props you need to have adapters, also you know that you need to buy counter rotating props.
Change out the couplers to real collets, you will be happier in the long run.
The clamp type motor mount is a nice idea but be VERY CAREFUL when you tighten or loosen the clamp, the metal is soft and it is easily stripped. If it is somewhat like the P1 Fountain boat, you really don't need to worry about the motor being gripped by the clamp, it is quite precisely machined and get the feel for it then tighten little by little, no need to over do it.
On my V1, I read so many bad stories about running with 4s, I didn't even bother to try, only ran 3s. Speed is low 30s top. The 2700kv may be faster, but if it is a 3s rated ESC, then you are stuck with 3s. I changed the 60A ESC out of my P1 ( Seaking 120A ESC) and run 4s, the out runner works well in that boat, it does run hotter than the in runner, but i am told that it is normal.
At the time of the V1KOS C34, Venom was selling aluminum 3 blade c.-rotating props, they are very pricy, and if you can find CNC ones for less money, get the CNC, the diameter is less than 40mm. I think the standard prop was 32mm and the optional ones were 36mm.
The aluminum hardware is pretty nice for a RTR boat, again, if I remember correctly, there are actual bearings in the stingers, be sure to lube them nicely, grease is too thick, I had a concoction of 50% motor oil and 50% STP oil additive, a much simpler way is to buy heavy gear oil like Sta-Lube Heavy Duty-Hypoid SAE 85W140 Limited-Slip Gear Oil, use it straight or blended with 30w motor oil. ( I use Mobil1 10W-30). I put plenty in the stinger before I insert the cable.
The hull is very pretty, but delicate, and I would get hold of MonoJeff for some clear marine vinyl tape ( not hockey tape, you must have seen his F/S thread).http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...974#post595974
if you just use hatch tape, pretty soon the beautiful paint will peel and it is not a good thing.
What else? I worked for 12hr., can't think, anyway, you are no newbie, enjoy boating, my friend!
Also note that the cockpit is very nice but the clear windshield is thin and may not be water tight, you need to do a water test, so in the event that the boat flips, water will not enter thru your cockpit. There were pictures of how people reinforced the windshield---I didn't like it, it was backed up by solid CF layers, good idea but takes out the scale realism, find your own way to remedy this weak link.
OK, I am done for now, lol.....Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Sorry about the fire, that sucks. Here's my thoughts I've had great success with the aqua craft motley crew and Lucas oil(essentially same boat). I bought a used MC that had aftermarket junk and it burnt up after 2 runs. I was advised to go back to stock and get some good batteries and I've never had another problem. Both boats are dialed in and are a blast to drive and most important RELIABLE every time out.
Next step up is a pre owned Keith Bradley built 41" Fantasm that was a high dollar build(for me) and it is beautiful, fast and reliable! Finally, I've got some gas boats too that can be a real headache but, again, once setup and tuned properly, they fire right up and run awesome.
I've never owned any venom/atomic boats even though I like the scale looks and graphics, they seem to have many problems. Best of luck on your next boat and as mentioned earlier your lake setting is Beautiful!!Comment
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