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Never got your pm HRC
Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 4
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Thanks Kevin I got your drawings and NC files and will be working with them as time allows.
DaveComment
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Anything come of these?
Sent from my HTC VLE_U using TapatalkComment
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I have not heard back from hrc, I have sent the plans to my machine shop teacher from back when I was at the local community college. He's gonna have his advanced students make me a few of these. It may take a while to get them back tho.
Sent from my HTC VLE_U using TapatalkComment
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Hi Kevin,
I have been working with the G codes doing some tweaking to try and make the blocks more cost effective. There is a time issue for how long it takes to CNC the part from a block of aluminum. The end result may not be a marketable price for me to do it considering the original cost of the ESC and adding upgrade compared to the gains achieved.
DaveComment
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This is so weird. Your desgns looks almost the same as what I came up with. I never even saw this thread till now. Heres what I've been doing. By hand so they don't look as good as yours. Plus im a noob to a milling machine.
20131221_194209.jpg
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I did not mill the bottom out. It only has a top plate that is sealed with sealer.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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You need to have a separator between inlet / outlet, otherwise the cold water will exit sooner that you want, not cooling the whole surface.
As for the price, you know better how much your work worth and also what materials you are using.Comment
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Look, this ain't rocket science. If you fill a container full of hot water, put a top on it with holes on each side, then force cool water in one home and the excess comes out the other hole, I can assure you the water in the bottom isn't going to stay hot. The cool water is not going to beeline from the inlet to the outlet.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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@ kfxguy - do as you wish in your way, we will do ours. we have tested different designs before choosing this one based on the results; i am not saying that your design is not good, don't be pissed; I am saying that we have selected a different one and different means more choices, right?Comment
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Not pissed. Just being entertained that's all. Lol. One may/may not be better than the other. I just feel like the bigger the water chamber, the better. That's just my opinion and what I've found that works good for me. Im no hydro dynamics engineer either...you might be.
I just know my esc stays cool and I've checked the temp with a temp gun in multiple spots and its within a couple degrees of each other. Im not trying to split hairs here as a couple degree difference isn't going to make me lose any sleep at night. Lol32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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ESC watercooling discussions have been some of the most lively ones ever. As an observer, participant, T-180 cooling plate modder, and racer who depends on ESC integrity I have some observations. Some will disagree but I'm good with that.
To begin with, just about every cooling design on most of the bread-and-butter escs commonly utilized are not very efficient given the physical layouts of the FET's and the cooling apparati and the border between them. Cutting right to the bottom line, watercooling as it's now generally configured may help some but it will never rescue a setup that overworks the esc. Get your setup correct and let 'er rip, period.
Modding the cooling plate as discussed here may have some effect but I doubt it. I've not seen any data or trials to back up claims such as : "Now, you can really squeeze all the power from your setup, your speed controller will NOT overheat and cut the power anymore. " (from the site being linked to above.) Show me some verification and I'll retract my skepticism, along with forking over the $66.07 USD the advertised modded plate sells for. Or not, given that I modded the stock plate on my P-Mono T-180 for roughly $ 0.06 cents and it has a bigger flow chamber than the one being advertised in the link.
And, while not a genuinely mass-replicated, statistically verified experiment, here's what I found :
With TWO absolutely identical P-Monos from bow to prop-nut (I know since I built them both), one with an unmodified T-180 and one (mine) with the full-flow water passage T-180 mod (pictures on request), they always could do mill + 6 laps on the 1/6 mile course when air temps stayed in the 80 degree F zone. Then one time a race was run when the temps were mid 90 degree F. BOTH boats thermaled EXACTLY at the same time and place on the fifth lap coming around the last turn. We both propped down to the same smaller prop and EXACTLY the same thing happened. I really wished that with my high-flow cooler mod that I was able to " really squeeze all the power from your {my} setup, your {my} speed controller will NOT overheat and cut the power anymore." Didn't happen
Going further, I've done experimental testing to find out ways to keep the Ltd (spec) motors from overheating and burning stators since I race several Ltd classes. Fans blowing on or extracting air to/from the motor, even made an "ice tube" to chill the water flowing to the motor can. Zilch, Nada.
So, for now, I'll sit back and see if there's some convincing evidence that there's a better way. I hope there is but until then I'll continue to configure my setups to reside in thermal happyland.
TonyLast edited by properchopper; 01-03-2014, 01:37 AM.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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