i got all the templates cut out now im going to trace them onto wood and begin this build!!
36inch twin cat build
Collapse
X
-
Impossible to predict as there are too many variables between hulls, but should be similar to my Jolly if the tunnel and sponson shape is similar.
A few more inches of hull length wont make much difference if you can get the hull to plane with just the last few inches of each sponson in the water, and within reason hull weight just affects acceleration, not top speed.
Graham.Comment
-
You are just asking to blow your ESCs. It is all about trade off. you want size AND speed. If you don't care about how much you spend or how stinky your boat becomes after repeated fires, then you might make 50mph for a second then poof.
Your combo is not very conducive to FAST and RELIABLE. You will need either really hot motors, your 4S Fe batts and a hefty ESC. OR you will need 6S and a low KV motor that might work with your 100 amp ESCs.
Have you read any of the twin cat threads? You won't find any that run 100 amp ESCs, especially those that talk of your target speed.
Take Wolf, he has twin 2700 kv motors (very roughly equivalent to 6 or 7 XL) on 4S and what size speed controllers does he have?
Mine has two 1500 kv motors, eventually on 6S and I am thinking 200 amp controllers too.
The guys who are most helpful here are the ones that end up being most cautious... recommending larger ESCs that necessary, starting with small prop, checking temps often.
Save your Xpowers for smaller apps and save money in the end."Look good doin' it"
See the fleetComment
-
twin cat
jesse her is my twin cat build
nuttin but smooth runnin here
Attached FilesTHUNDER TIGER OUTLAW,THUNDER TIGER BANDIT
CARBON FIBER MINICAT HYDRO,MINICAT HYDRO,PROBOAT MISS GEICO,SKUNKWORKS 32" CAT TWIN, H@M VIPER TURBINE ---JEFF WOHLT WIRE DRIVESComment
-
You are just asking to blow your ESCs. It is all about trade off. you want size AND speed. If you don't care about how much you spend or how stinky your boat becomes after repeated fires, then you might make 50mph for a second then poof.
Your combo is not very conducive to FAST and RELIABLE. You will need either really hot motors, your 4S Fe batts and a hefty ESC. OR you will need 6S and a low KV motor that might work with your 100 amp ESCs.
Have you read any of the twin cat threads? You won't find any that run 100 amp ESCs, especially those that talk of your target speed.
Take Wolf, he has twin 2700 kv motors (very roughly equivalent to 6 or 7 XL) on 4S and what size speed controllers does he have?
Mine has two 1500 kv motors, eventually on 6S and I am thinking 200 amp controllers too.
The guys who are most helpful here are the ones that end up being most cautious... recommending larger ESCs that necessary, starting with small prop, checking temps often.
Save your Xpowers for smaller apps and save money in the end.SUPERVEE 2737'' TWIN CAT
Comment
-
Here is the economical route (a little more specific direction but same site as in post #12):
HiModel GX Seires 200A 3-7S Brushless Electric Speed Controller Type GX-200A-OPTO from manufacturer HiModel, in category Brushless Speed Control (BL ESC) - Air/ Helis, Electric Speed Control (ESC).
there are multiple threads around OFE on how to water proof and cool these guys. They will give you a little headroom and allow you to go with 8XLs or something similar to get your Kitty movin'.
As for Todd (BigPapa).................... your kitties are gettin some publicity"Look good doin' it"
See the fleetComment
-
You could go with hydras, but you will still be pulling pretty good amps if you want your kat to go fast on 4S. Remember, low volts + high speeds = hi amps. Whereas hi volts + high speeds can = lower amps."Look good doin' it"
See the fleetComment
-
here are some pics of the pecies fit togeather
now im wondering if i cut some peices out or if it is suppose to be like this,
when i put in the motor mount peice it pulls apart the 2 sides, did i cut this out wrong? here is a pic
and the same this happens with the back one, pic
SUPERVEE 2737'' TWIN CAT
Comment
-
Comment
-
Something weird happened with your re-scaling dude!? That is not supposed to happen. You must still insert the secondary stringers on the inside though, the tunnel profile pieces...the ones laying in the foreground in my pic. Take off all the bulkheads and stack them directly on top of each other, the stringer cut-outs should all line up exactly.Attached FilesComment
-
Yipes, is that blood you are spilling??
I am becoming a big fan of 1500 kv motors (proboat ones). They run cool, and draw lower amps, meaning longer lasting gear.
You may have not been perfectly precise with the cutting if it pulls your stringers apart. I would make sure they are straight and parallel, even if it means cutting another rear bulkhead. Or, you could trim it and then shim the gap once you get it perfect. You want to be SUPER sure your ride pads are perfect. So don't get lazy and just pull the stringers together to make it straight, as this will sacrifice the ride pad angle. A little extra patience here will save you significant frustration and bondo-ing later."Look good doin' it"
See the fleetComment
Comment