Mhz mystic 114 build

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Some sort of rotory diamond cutting wheel. I used Dremel. I recamend not following their seam line, as it is illogical. Cut a little higher at the back area, to avoid cutting into the aft lower sections. More towards the middle of the boats side, like the red line shows.

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For all the labour in what I did, I'd add a little more labour and flash-cast the hull deck & hatch, and lay one up from scratch.

In hindsight, The "Magnum 44" hull from Bill Oxidean (or whoever fabs those hulls), would have been a way better choice, due to the fact those hulls are vaccumed debulked.

If I built these hulls, I'd vac debulk all but the last inner layer for a solid lay-up, then hand lay-up the last layer inside, for a nice clean look. Peel ply finish is yuck!

As for joining, picture the seperate seam I made, but with all bulkeads, motor-mounts & whatever else-mount with it, for a one piece internal skeleton. Simply drop this skeletal super structure into the hull, then stick the deck on to that. In my opinion, that is how all these crafts should be made...

[mmars89]

Some sort of rotory diamond cutting wheel. I used Dremel. I recamend not following their seam line, as it is illogical. Cut a little higher at the back area, to avoid cutting into the aft lower sections. More towards the middle of the boats side, like the red line shows.

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Diamond wheel on a Dremel was my first thought, thanks for confirming. And that line does make much more sense, thanks for the drawing! Cheers!

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Finally. All sanded. Just got to re-groove the hatch details, and take care the one rebel pinhole. After all my prepping, he stood resistant. After I sand it fair, I might make a dimple, to honour that pinhole's resolve.

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[autolex]

Finally. All sanded. Just got to re-groove the hatch details, and take care the one rebel pinhole. After all my prepping, he stood resistant. After I sand it fair, I might make a dimple, to honour that pinhole's resolve.

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The mask looks incredible. I'd love to try something like this with my Mystic 84 someday. I say you airbrush it as some kind of actual damage and make it extra realistic :)

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

I attempted to re-groove the hatch details. Even with a template, I don't like how it came out. So, I've filled them all and faired them smooth. I will have the painter do 1mm outlines in black, to mimic the hatch details.

Contacted a painter, waiting for reply...

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Off to the painter...

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[autolex]

Cant wait to see the results of this epic build!

[Fish N Chicks]

Soooo, like do we not ask what the paint theme will be or is that like asking a pregnant woman what she's having

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Nothing fancy. Bright green like Kawasaki, with black running pads and windscreen. Like the BIG EAST 450 RACING CAT, but with no simulated black spray, just straight line along the side of the running pads. Dupont Imron system will be used by the painter.

Mock sponsorship decals might go on after.

https://www.speedonthewater.com/sneak-peek-big-east-construction-goes-neon-for-super-stock-season/

[Fish N Chicks]

Gonna be SWEET!!! Great livery.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

Gave up on scratch-making hinges, so got some brass ones and blackened them. They will be clear-coated tomorrow.

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

QUESTION:

1. Coupler worries. Should I just get these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPDTFVQB...JC3GZNHQ9&th=1) and not worry about the stock MHZ couplers?

2. Ripple voltage worries. I'm running Castle 300w xlx2 esc's, with CNHL Racing Series 6200mAh 22.2V 6S 90C, SSS 4092 2000KV'S.
Should I get some Castle cap packs?

[fweasel]

I use a more precision version of those collets and have been happy with them. The only downside is that they're a little bulky which can be an issue inside hulls with tight quarters. While I have not used the knock-offs personally, I know several people who have, and haven't heard any bad feedback.

I choose to run cap packs in all of my SAW boats, especially the high rpm low voltage ones like 6S. The only way to know for sure if you "need" them is to read your ESC logs after a run. As long as they're matched appropriately, they won't hurt anything if they're not actually needed. I make my own using Rubycon ZLH 1000uf caps soldiered in parallel, usually 5000uf total, onto solid copper rods. I hot glue them together, epoxy coat the metal business end, then shrink wrap the entire thing. I use 80V caps for 12S setups and 35Vcaps for my 6S setups.

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[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

What / where available, is the more precision versions of the collets? If I'm gonna use them, I want good ones.

I will read-up on reading the information from the ESC's, so as I could figure out info to proceed on the cap packs.

I'm not going to be chasing SAW records, just sport-running for now. But being a male human, I know the speed-record itch is hiding in the shadows...

Love those packs you made. I'll be going down the home-made route when needed.

Thanks again Mr. Fweasel.

[fweasel]

The Castle ESC's are awesome. And if you won't be beating on them at the bleeding edge of their specs, you can skip the cap packs. The collets I use are actual machining collets, CNC'd with metric inserts. I buy them from a guy named Franz Spannegal in Germany. I usually contact him via Facebook. Honestly, if you're not spinning at 50K RPM or more, I'd say other than price, the difference is likely negligible between the real ones and the Amazon copies.