Darin's DYMotorshop 33.5" P-Mono Build

[Darin Jordan]

Got the battery trays fitted into the hull last night.

With the epoxy set, I first fixed the parts down to a flat board and block sanded the pads to make sure they were all in the same plane. I used pencil marks on the middle mounts so I could see when the block sander made contact.

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Turned out to not really matter, since the area they need to mount in curves a bit. SO, the plan was to use epoxy mixed with Cavisil (Fumed Silica) to make it thick and stay in place, then float them into position, trying not to induce ANY torque on them that might warp/deflect the hull bottom. Worked out pretty well.

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I set the hull on the keel and gently held it in place with a set of batteries so as not to introduce any deflection in the bottom while curing.

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Pretty much ready for paint once this cures. Have a few more odds/ends to do (water line ports, etc.), but nothing that can't/shouldn't be done after it's painted.

[longballlumber]

I am interested in your sanding block. Is that thing pretty rigid and FLAT? how are you holding the paper? I use double sided carpet tape.

[Darin Jordan]

I am interested in your sanding block. Is that thing pretty rigid and FLAT? how are you holding the paper? I use double sided carpet tape.

For this type of work, I just hold the paper up the sides. It works pretty well for basic stuff.

When I want it REALLY flat, I'll use Super-77 Adhesive over packaging tape to hold the paper in place, but also be able to remove it.

OR, I use some cabinet grade Poplar wood pieces and Super-77 the paper to those.

That Sanding block in the picture there is plastic, and very rigid. I also have a couple that are some kind of hard-foam, but also seem to be very flat and rigid. Not as hard as this one, however, so I imagine they flex a little.

[T.S.Davis]

Those foam blocks are available soft too for those occasions your sending a curved surface. I use them when I'm smoothing out a deck or something.

[Fluid]

I have used this (or one very similar) for over 25 years.

[grsboats]

Nice building..this hull is a beauty....I would clear it with just few decals.Gill

[Beaux]

What color are you going with?

[Darin Jordan]

What color are you going with?

I'll leave a little of the carbon showing, but likely with my "race" colors... Pearl White and "Sparklescent Mango"... :)

But we'll see. It's going to be part of my race-fleet, so it needs to be somewhat simple to touch-up and repair.

[Beaux]

Yea , if you ain't rubbin you ain't racein!!

[longballlumber]

I have used this (or one very similar) for over 25 years.

Ever put a good straight edge on one of those.... they are not FLAT. I currently use those, but I use double sided tape and tape an entire sheet of sanding paper on to my granite build surface and then prep the surface of the sanding block that you have shown. You will find that in most cases the edges of the aluminum extrusion are bowed making the sanding surface concave. This all makes sense knowing it's an extrusion and the edges are going to cool quicker than the center section.

[Fluid]

Yes I have. Mine is similar to the one in the photo, of heavier gauge and over twenty-five years old. Made in the USA, not China. It is dead flat in both axes. YMMV

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[Jesse J]

What does YMMV mean? "You made me verify" ?

[Fluid]

Your Mileage May Vary.


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[Beaux]

Where and how are you going to mount your esc ? Just curious. Thanks.

[Darin Jordan]

Where and how are you going to mount your esc ? Just curious. Thanks.

I'm going to be using a Castle ICE200 and it will be mounted using Velcro on the left side of the motor. However, IF I think there is room, it may get mounted in between the battery trays right in front of the motor. That would allow for shorter motor/ESC wires. We'll see when I get there.