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  • kfxguy
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Oct 2013
    • 8746

    #31
    Originally posted by TheShaddix
    Is this some special masking tape you're using? Or just generic stuff from Lowes, etc? I find that my epoxy goes right through whatever tape I'm using.
    Regular 3m masking tape.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    • kfxguy
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Oct 2013
      • 8746

      #32
      And stuffing tube. Carbon tube used as a nice touch. I didn't like the look of gold brass in the boat. Doesn't match anything really. I also feel like the carbon would stop driveline vibration better than brass. Just my theory

      Last edited by kfxguy; 02-28-2015, 09:26 AM.
      32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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      • kfxguy
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Oct 2013
        • 8746

        #33
        I wanted to add, the 2260 lehner actually fits and the hatch will clear it no problem. I layed the motor a little lower than normal. Just in case I decide to try the 2260 for the heck of it lol. The boat is quite heavy with lust the motor in it tho.
        32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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        • Luck as a Constant
          Make Total Destroy
          • Mar 2014
          • 1952

          #34
          hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
          is it jb weld?
          thanks

          also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?
          There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

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          • kfxguy
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Oct 2013
            • 8746

            #35
            Originally posted by Luck as a Constant
            hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
            is it jb weld?
            thanks

            also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?

            No idea why lol. Ok, I use jb weld mixed with powdered graphite to turn it dark gray. Otherwise it's light gray. I've had some pretty violent flips and it hold well. Jb quick holds well too but it sets way too fast so I switched to the jb weld. Tip: put your jb weld down and on low heat with a heat gun go over it, it will flow out and air bubbles will be released (stronger bond). Then while your warming it you can shape it the way you want with a paint brush. Mask off your shape with the yellow or green 3m making tape. It's thicker and comes off cleaner. It's not cheap at 10 bucks but if you use the blue stuff it does not stick well and the tan stuff is thin and does not come off cleanly after it sits for a bit.

            The hatch. Hmmm. I've posted it in a few threads. I'll find you some links but I may do a how to on its own about it. There's a coule different ways I do it depending on if I use the short aluminum hatch bolts or the stainless ones.
            32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

            Comment

            • kfxguy
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Oct 2013
              • 8746

              #36
              Originally posted by Luck as a Constant
              hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
              is it jb weld?
              thanks

              also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?

              No idea why lol. Ok, I use jb weld mixed with powdered graphite to turn it dark gray. Otherwise it's light gray. I've had some pretty violent flips and it hold well. Jb quick holds well too but it sets way too fast so I switched to the jb weld. Tip: put your jb weld down and on low heat with a heat gun go over it, it will flow out and air bubbles will be released (stronger bond). Then while your warming it you can shape it the way you want with a paint brush. Mask off your shape with the yellow or green 3m making tape. It's thicker and comes off cleaner. It's not cheap at 10 bucks but if you use the blue stuff it does not stick well and the tan stuff is thin and does not come off cleanly after it sits for a bit.

              The hatch. Hmmm. I've posted it in a few threads. I'll find you some links but I may do a how to on its own about it. There's a coule different ways I do it depending on if I use the short aluminum hatch bolts or the stainless ones.

              Heres some links

              http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...at-twins/page3
              32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

              Comment

              • dude123
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2014
                • 261

                #37
                Im really diggin that cf rod dude!!! is that your housing for the smaller shaft? If you already explained , welll my bad
                Every one knows the best part about building a boat is SANDING!!!! Just kidding

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                • kfxguy
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Oct 2013
                  • 8746

                  #38
                  Originally posted by dude123
                  Im really diggin that cf rod dude!!! is that your housing for the smaller shaft? If you already explained , welll my bad

                  My 1/4 stuffing tube slides into it. There will be a bigger piece of carbon rod epoxied over it. Then I will drill through it and thread the carbon. I will screw a small nipple into it and use that to oil the shaft instead of removing it all the time. Just follow along and you'll see.....
                  32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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                  • flraptor07
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Aug 2013
                    • 2451

                    #39
                    Travis, give these KST servos a try. I've been using them for about a year and they work great, plus way smoother and quieter than Savox. They are all rubber sealed and are very water proof although they don't claim it. I have submerged one for a week and hooked it up while submerged and worked it for 30mins. with no issues. This one is 250oz. @7.4v and 208oz. @ 6.0v and .06sec./60deg. @7.4v http://www.ebay.com/itm/KST-DS715MG-...-/111562685011 The Heli guys use them alot and all reviews I've read have been good.
                    Last edited by flraptor07; 02-28-2015, 12:21 PM.

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                    • Kaotic
                      Senior Member
                      • Jul 2014
                      • 447

                      #40
                      I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying

                      image.jpgimage.jpg
                      Michigan Fast Electric SAW Club
                      Revolt - 76.9mph...Building a DF35- Project Mono

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                      • flraptor07
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2013
                        • 2451

                        #41
                        Originally posted by Kaotic
                        I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying

                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]128537[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]128538[/ATTACH]
                        Looks like the problem was you just bonded on top and edge, not inbetween the tray and the hull. Let's see a pic of the bottom surface of the tray where it meets the hull.. Plus I always use the little oval risers that come with the trays, sand those both sides then epoxy those first then the tray.

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                        • kfxguy
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Oct 2013
                          • 8746

                          #42
                          Originally posted by Kaotic
                          I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying

                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]128537[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]128538[/ATTACH]

                          yea i could definately see that failing. i dont use jb weld on my battery trays. I use a two part epoxy my hobby shop sells. i'll get you a name. I dont use the little spacers either on a build like this. I wedge the tray in betweem the tunnel and outer wall and with a syringe i put epoxy the whole way down the tray and shoot some in spots on the underside. I do them like this in all the cats i build and i think i abuse them (not purposly lol) enough to the point if they were going to detach, they would have. I fully trust the jb on the motor mounts, there is a lot used in that area.

                          also, 120 grit is way too fine. I see a problem there. I use 60 grit or 40 grit. its green. It puts really deep scratches in it. i also measure my jb on a gram scale to get a perfect mix everytime.

                          one more thing...if your bonding carbon to fiberglass, jb weld isnt the best choice either. jb sticks to carbon and aluminum extremely well but not so well to fiberglass.
                          32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

                          Comment

                          • kfxguy
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Oct 2013
                            • 8746

                            #43
                            Originally posted by flraptor07
                            Looks like the problem was you just bonded on top and edge, not inbetween the tray and the hull. Let's see a pic of the bottom surface of the tray where it meets the hull.. Plus I always use the little oval risers that come with the trays, sand those both sides then epoxy those first then the tray.
                            thats how i did them the one and only time i had to use the risers. both sides get roughed with 60 grit. epoxy is also spread out the whole length of the tray. I cut slots in mine and dont wrap the velcro around the tray also..




                            hey i'm gonna order one of those servos. they look nice. I already ordered the compact one for my river so i'll be using it. I still need one for my shocker so that will work because i have more room.
                            32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

                            Comment

                            • Kaotic
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2014
                              • 447

                              #44
                              Since then I just use 105/207. In my new build I'm going to use G-Flex. I did wedge it between the two CF surfaces. I'm not trying to say to never use JB I was just really surprised the the joint sheared in the middle of the JB. it didn't really loose grip from the hulk surface. image.jpg
                              Michigan Fast Electric SAW Club
                              Revolt - 76.9mph...Building a DF35- Project Mono

                              Comment

                              • Kaotic
                                Senior Member
                                • Jul 2014
                                • 447

                                #45
                                Also this was a bad crash. It ripped the servo mount right off. Broke the rudder assembly cracked the hull a little. I was really experimenting with some different concepts when these roofing guys came down to the pond and where amazed how fast I was going soooooo I felt I had to show off and as I was coming back at full throttle (which I never do that, I always wait for the pond settle down for a minute) I hit my own wake and it stuffed. My heart skipped a beat but my 7 year old son was thrilled watching it crash so all I could do was laugh. It was pretty cool to see though.
                                Michigan Fast Electric SAW Club
                                Revolt - 76.9mph...Building a DF35- Project Mono

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