Project Fast Cat

[kfxguy]

Sold my original Rivercat figured it was time to let it go to a good home and build another one later (yea that lasted about 3 days)as I've collected a few hulls (I love this little cat, what can I say?). I go up in the attic to grab the cheetah I'm starting on and grab a Rivercat to sit on my top shelf (I was feeling lonely lol). It sat up there for about a day or two before I got it down and started the inlay on it. Ok, enough about that. My goal for this cat is to make it as strong, nice and as fast as my skills will allow. I'm going to use everything I've learned and apply it to this. I'll be going back and forth on this between 4 other builds. I'll be posting one more different build soon. I encourage any ideas or discussion through this build, in my opinion that's part of the fun and keeps me motivated....so by all means, have at it.

Here's a parts list:
Hull: 32" fightercat carbon fiber Rivercat
Motor: lehner 2250
Esc: castle 8s capable mamba xl2 converted to water cooled
Cap bank: yes of course
Collet: mbp 8mm x .187
Flex: aeromarine .187
Servo: billet spectrum waterproof (new not released yet but on preorder)
Servo linkage: stainless heavy duty rod, polished
Batt connectors: castle green 6.5mm
Batts: revo 427's 5500 70c
Motor mount: kintec adjustable sliding

The inlay is a tad different that I usually do. One layer has always faired good enough and held up well. I decided to do one regular layer on the tunnel only and then go over the whole thing with a heavier layer of honey comb cf.

First layer:







Motor mount with a 2260 in it for mockup (2250 hasn't got here yet)

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[kfxguy]

Just got these puppies from ose the other day. So glad he starting carrying them!

If you haven't used these, I highly recommend. Well worth price!




Little mockup to see how it's gonna fit. Keep in mind this motor is a tad longer than what I'm using. It still fits tho!

[kfxguy]

Lining it up



Ready to be sanded. I tried to start last night but the epoxy I bought this go round takes more than two days to cure so it wasn't quite hard enough to sand yet. Should be able to mount tonight.

[kfxguy]

Here's the servo I ordered. It's supposed to be available early March. I preordered it. I had a very hard time finding everything I wanted in a servo. I wanted black and billet, waterproof, futaba 25t spline (I'll show you why later, I have some trick servo arms in that spline) and I wanted it compact but powerful. This is the only servo that fit all that criteria. If anyone knows of something else, I'm all ears!

[TheShaddix]

is that a custom CF esc cooling block? Can you post some upclose shots of that? looks really cool!

Also got a question for your inlays. Where do you normally cut it off on the sides? In other words, Where do the edges of the cloth end on the wall? I'm wondering where would be a good cut off line so that it doesn't interfere with the motor mounts (for twin setup) and also provides enough coverage.

I also ordered that collet too, been drooling over those for a long time and finally they are here on OSE! Not sure what the difference is between this and a cheap 10 dollar one, but I like the look of it. The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.

[kfxguy]

is that a custom CF esc cooling block? Can you post some upclose shots of that? looks really cool!

Also got a question for your inlays. Where do you normally cut it off on the sides? In other words, Where do the edges of the cloth end on the wall? I'm wondering where would be a good cut off line so that it doesn't interfere with the motor mounts (for twin setup) and also provides enough coverage.

I also ordered that collet too, been drooling over those for a long time and finally they are here on OSE! Not sure what the difference is between this and a cheap 10 dollar one, but I like the look of it. The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.

Hey thanks! You must have missed this thread.... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...xl2&highlight=

That thread shows all the details of the esc. Pretty interesting what I did honestly.

The collets...yes I'm glad he did. They seem to grab better and are by far smoother and more precise...and balanced. I've been balancing my cheapie collets but these are far better. On the screws, how would they rust if your boat is completely sealed? Hmmm. Just kidding, I'm making a joke about the people that say their boats are perfectly sealed and never get water. But anyway, I've used these collets a few times and the screws don't rust that easily. Easy to replace if they do. I

I go as far back and as forward as I can reach and go all the way up the sides and curve back in a little. I'd put some 2mm or 3mm plates epoxied at the rear of the sponson where the drive will mount too then do your inlay. I just ordered some west systems today to try on my shocker and a couple other boats I have lined up. If my motor does not come in by the time this boat is done, I have a neu 1521 2900kv and 1900kv motors to try. I want to see how fast I can go on 4s with that 2900kv motor altho that's slated for another carbon Rivercat hull I have that will be built soon also. Just been dying to try this motor. That will be a purpose built, lightweight version.

[rearwheelin]

This is going to be a fast boat !

[srislash]

Ok, I'll ask a question. Is that little cat going to float with a 2250 and stuff in it? Rofl

So how about a deck brace? If you are gonna break 100 with this one you are bound to have some mishaps.

Though I will add that you seem to be quite good at getting a boat 'trimmed just right'

[rearwheelin]

You do the same thing I do ! Leave lighters and smokes in the pics image.jpg

[rearwheelin]

I would laminate the front and back side of the motor plate with 1-2mm cf to give it more strength and bling. JB weld is perfect for this upgrade . Do one side a night. Dremel out the holes before you do the other side . I think that would look really good !

[keithbradley]

The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.

They can/will, but you can prevent that by putting a little oil on them. They are not stainless for a reason, so don't swap them for stainless. Stainless cannot be hardened with the same processes that are typically used for steel bolts due to a low carbon content, so stainless bolts are actually much softer and prone to galling when compared to quality steel bolts. You will find (at least in high power setups) that you will need to get pretty serious when it comes to tightening those bolts.

These collets used to come with bolts that are a little on the short side and swapping them out for longer bolts helped prevent thread failure...I'm not sure if the bolts have been changed since then though, so take a look at yours. They are far superior to the Chinese collets in terms of run-out. All of the cheaper collets have a significant amount of run-out compared to these, which can lead to premature motor failure on high RPM setups.

A few of us with extreme setups have also found that the "fingers" of these collets will twist if the load/torque is great enough. They don't typically fail because of this but it does make the flex difficult to remove/install. If you have this issue, just consider yourself in the "gotta pay if you wanna play" club.

[kfxguy]

Ok, I'll ask a question. Is that little cat going to float with a 2250 and stuff in it? Rofl

So how about a deck brace? If you are gonna break 100 with this one you are bound to have some mishaps.

Though I will add that you seem to be quite good at getting a boat 'trimmed just right'

Well I hope it floats lol. I don't see it having a problem tho. Some places in dropping weight over my original Rivercat (servo, motor mount, battery trays) but in others weight is getting added. Of course I'll be weighing it and if it's several oz heavier, I'm sure it'll be ok. Probably help it stay down better. I do know that my last build worked well and I don't want to deviate too far from that build

I know most of you guys like pool noodles and stuff like that but I prefer two part foam. Last Rivercat was done like this and it was very strong. If I have to do repairs I can do them to the outside. Honestly I'm so picky that should it get damaged, I'll toss the hull in the garbage and build another. I'd just be more worried about getting my electronics back.

[kfxguy]

You do the same thing I do ! Leave lighters and smokes in the pics [ATTACH=CONFIG]128501[/ATTACH]

No smokes here....that lighter is for my flex making tool...propane torch. Lol

[TheShaddix]

That makes sense, Keith. Same reason they don't use stainless for really tough tools but instead coat the steel with something to prevent corrosion. But what is a run-out?

[rearwheelin]

Ok I just noticed the blade so there goes that thought ha ha