8255 Build

[Shooter]

Terry.
I always add some hard balsa to the nose piece. Both top & bottom. A then fair to shape. This allows a lot more surface area for glue at the nose. Although I use expanding foam in the sponsons, I also add a block of styrene foam in the middle of each section to save foam & weight. Never had any shrinkage problems.
The same styrene foam is used in the rest of the hull. It weighs next to nothing. But the little white beads go everywhere when cutting & shaping.

That's a great idea with the balsa!

[T.S.Davis]

20150208_203421.jpg

Got those pics. Thank you. I dropped them into autocad and scaled them. I'll plot them at the office tomorrow.

The ball sacks help but I would need about 10 more to get out of taping everywhere. PIA.

[bozo586]

looks like everything but the kitchen sink holding the skins!

[T.S.Davis]

Haha. I always do it that way. What ever it takes to hold it in place. I've used 1 gallon paint cans.

[bozo586]

if it works that's great! i've been trying to do skins for a week,using one hand is kind of hard--but it will get done!

[T.S.Davis]

The jig helps a LOT. The boat fits on there so tight that there is no chance of developing a twist.

[D. Newland]

...
Did some digging made some calls. Think the deal when written was that the shaft was always straight from hull to strut. Then the vintage rules said you had to have a "straight" shaft. Then modern said you could use "any" shaft.

Then later the vintage guys thought....ss long as it's straight coming out who cares what's inside the tube? So they passed a change to any shaft for both versions. The "any" part of the exception for modern was left over where it should have been removed.

Soooooo.....shaft needs to be straight from hull to strut. BUT....what's inside the stuffing tube can be what ever you want. Wooden dowel, piano wire, spaghetti noodle, flex cable, dried snot. All legal as long as there's a straight line.

Terry-Who'd you talk to? PM/text me if you don't want to list here.

I ask because I dug on this a while back. Talked to (who I consider) the 2 top scale guys in the Pac NW. Bending of a driveline is ok on a Modern was their consensus.

MANY MANY MANY modern boats have a bent driveline. The rule could obviously use some clarity, but think of it this way. The Modern Class (c) "Any shaft may be used" is replacing the entire wording in the General Rules under c) Drive Train i) "Any shaft may be used provided it maintains a straight line from hull exit through the strut".

IMO, of course. I don't have the authority to interpret rules. Only the CD can do that. However, that is how I interpret it (based on my research) and that is how I would assist a CD in the event I'm called to offer an opinion.

[T.S.Davis]

Mostly from memory and talking to guys around here. I tried to dig up the old proposal from way back when but that was 4 computers ago. I know Todd was told "gotta be straight". Not sure who told him that. Tom came to the same conclusion. That it wasn't clear enough to avoid getting hosed on it later.

The way you described is how I read it at first too. It's kind of screwy the way we have it written. Both sections say "any shaft may be used" but the general says "provided it's straight". The consensus around here was that to say it can be bent was a leap of faith since the rule didn't actually say it could be anything other than straight. It only says "any shaft". Doesn't say bent stuff tube or not.

I would be at piece with straight or curved. I would even build to what ever the "intent" was to begin with so as to be compliant when/if it's fixed/amended what ever. Just not sure who to ask what the intent was. Didn't that proposal come from Bickfords gang up there in NW? Somewhere around 2008. Would have been just before I bailed on being chairman I think. Wonder what ERCU is doing.

Fred and I went through this with the hooked turn fin on vintage. The book didn't say it had to be straight so we hooked it on his Notre Dam. He was actually protested at the 10 nats. There was no rule support. A rule change was proposed and passed shortly there after to shore that up.

Is this worthy of a proposal to clean it up? Robert has "clarified" other rules. I really really really don't like doing that though. Slippery slope.

[tjcast]

Not including the explanation that whatever shaft you use inside of the stuffing tube, the stuffing tube must be straight from where it exits the hull through the strut, is where the confusion comes in.

[rdcracer]

The jig helps a LOT. The boat fits on there so tight that there is no chance of developing a twist.

C an you give some instruction on how to build the jig. I dont have anyone local and am wingin it

[ray schrauwen]

It is a bit ambiguous but, do they mean viewed from top or side ? From the top it's easy to conform to the rule but from the side, not easy if you want to use a flex cable.

[longballlumber]

The ball sacks help but I would need about 10 more to get out of taping everywhere. PIA.

I have more...

[T.S.Davis]

Sure enough. Missed a spot. Have to fix a wink. For lack of a better term.

[T.S.Davis]

C an you give some instruction on how to build the jig. I dont have anyone local and am wingin it

Sorry man. Asleep at the wheel.

Your kit should have 4 stringers. 2 that run the full length of the boat from transom to tip of sponson. 2 that run from trans to the front of the tub. You use those two inner stringers to draw the profile for the jig.

That profile will have a bend in it. You will add cross supports at the bend, at the transom and at the front of the tub. That's a minimum. You can use more. Think ladder looking thing. The framing wants/needs to be the exact width of the tub section of the boat. The framing needs to be as square as you can get it. The boat will assume the shape of the jig. If the jig sucks so will the boat. I sheet the top and bottom with Masonite so that I end up with a closed box that has framing inside it and at the ends. If you did it right, when you frame the boat those long stringers will hang down on each side of the jig while the center stringers and bulk heads sit on the surface of the jig.

Here's a pic of our boat sitting on the jig. Not sure it will help.
20150211_204809.jpg
If you scroll back up to the pic of my jig the description might make more sense.

Oh, another tip. Depending on what I'm doing I will put a sheet of wax paper between the boat and the jig. Then if any adhesive or epoxy dribbles through a seem I don't end up laminated to the jig. That extra sucks.

[Shooter]

Is that flotation in your boat???? I thought you gave up on that??!!

I attached my flotation to some weights last year and it only held up 1/4 the weight of the boat. Yikes!!!