8255 Build

[ron1950]

Terry take lots of pics pls when u do the hatch

[785boats]

Terry.
I always add some hard balsa to the nose piece. Both top & bottom. A then fair to shape. This allows a lot more surface area for glue at the nose. Although I use expanding foam in the sponsons, I also add a block of styrene foam in the middle of each section to save foam & weight. Never had any shrinkage problems.
The same styrene foam is used in the rest of the hull. It weighs next to nothing. But the little white beads go everywhere when cutting & shaping.

[Greg Schweers]

Modern Class--the strut can be totally adjustable, the shaft does not have to be straight. Only a portion of the prop needs to be under the boat.
Vintage Class--the shaft has to be straight through the strut. This boat also likes the rudder on the right. Plus you'll need some kind of ride pad because this boat has very little AOA. Mike should make an 8255 kit with AOA at 4 degrees; it would be much easier to set this boat up. The rules say that anything below the outside edge of the sponsons can be modified/changed. But Mike is trying to follow Newton's original plans.

[Todd Fleury]

You should check your NAMBA rule book regarding the shaft on a 1/10th scale. They must me straight.
c) Drive Train
i) Any shaft may be used provided it maintains a straight line from hull
exit through the strut.
ii) No gearbox of any configuration is allowed.
iii) Any single propeller may be used, and a portion of the propeller must
be under the transom. The drive dog is defined as not a part of the
propeller

[T.S.Davis]

I changed the ride surfaces to my liking already. I don't have real dimensions but at a glance mine look more like Buass 8255. I feel like they'll be okay the way I built them. Call it a the hunch factor.

I was pretty sure I couldn't bend my stuffing tube. Shouldn't be too hard to get 1 degree of negative on this. The rule allows for a huge pan. Way more than I need.

I found some sweet high strength stainless to fabricate an ultra thin turn fin. I also am going with a rudder that has no water pickup. Tighter wedge angle and less crap in the water.

[T.S.Davis]

Hey Todd, we got it wrong and Greg has it right. When you go to the modern rules there is an exception

(c) Any shaft may be used.
(d) Sponson design shall be up to the builder as long as it does not
change the outline shape of the hull.

[ray schrauwen]

Yes. Notice I use it selectively. I've found that if I pour it into a confined space that it contracts later after it heats cools heat cools. Warped a couple boats that way.

I used a small amount with it open on the back side so it can expand and contract a little without mangling the boat. I just wanted it as reinforcement where all those skins come together. I still may glass the exterior at the tip there for a little more. That's all 1/32 ply with the exception of the actual ride pad.

I wont pour in foam for the whole sponson. Way too heavy. I'll use pipe insulation as floatation through the bulkheads. Just thread it through the openings before I skin it.

Should have each side skinned this weekend.

Next will be to figure out the drive line. I'll likely put a small belly pan in to get a better strut angle. Really wanted to get the plans in my hand before I messed with that though. Still waiting for those.

I'll tackle the canopy and center section of the boat last.

Regarding flotation foam. I used some really nice grey stuff that came in packing from some Chinese hull. This stuff is lighter and more dense than blue foam block I used to use. I usually glue it in so it's too high and then sand it down when the sanding needs to be done on the wood. I've got a small piece left I'll use on a whip but, wish I could find more.

Nice building Terry, neat too!

I add epoxy and chopped glass into the tips, not too much but, it's tough! I know you need to keep a 1/10th light though...

What is the length & width of kit?

[T.S.Davis]

34.5x18. I have some white packing foam from all the TFL boxes. Could use that. It's everywhere in the house. LOL

Did some digging made some calls.

Think the deal when written was that the shaft was always straight from hull to strut. Then the vintage rules said you had to have a "straight" shaft. Then modern said you could use "any" shaft.

Then later the vintage guys thought....ss long as it's straight coming out who cares what's inside the tube? So they passed a change to any shaft for both versions. The "any" part of the exception for modern was left over where it should have been removed.

Soooooo.....shaft needs to be straight from hull to strut. BUT....what's inside the stuffing tube can be what ever you want. Wooden dowel, piano wire, spaghetti noodle, flex cable, dried snot. All legal as long as there's a straight line.

[T.S.Davis]

Guys, if any of you have questions or curiosities or just want to call me names. It's cool. Don't worry about cluttering up my thread. I don't mind at all.

[srislash]

Are you feeling lonely in here Terry? I have noticed it a bit slow around here the past couple weeks.

BTW, you're doing a bang up job.
And that TFL packing foam is great for flotation. I buy sheets of it from The Foam Shop as 'Camping bed pad'

[ray schrauwen]

No wonder it needs to be light, it's quite bug for stock power. Now I get 1/10th scale better.

Speaking of clutter, a nice lady in Home Depot is sourcing me a piece of off-cut Corian to build some boats on. Hopefully they don't try to fleece me for it, lol... After all it's a leftover piece from a sink cut out I asked for with one finished edge.

More clutter... Hobby King came out with yet a turd, I mean third version of the SURGE CRUSHER! Like we needed more, lol... gots a nice speedy in there and guess what? A 36mm x 60mm motor... sell more than a 100 and....

I'm out of CA... it freezing outside, my finger hurts...lol... that enough?

[T.S.Davis]

That's the spirit! Clutter. haha Maybe I'm lost without anyone assaulting my integrity.

I bought actual 1.5" mattress foam to pack my tool boxes and chargers and such when I went to WW last year. Cut everything to fit my gear in the boxes. Came out sweet. Now I use the solid pieces as boat stands on my tables. Doesn't matter what boat I put on them.

Here's a distraction I let myself have from the 10th scale. I was cussing it too much and took a break.
P mono.jpg

The 10th is ready for left and right deck skins. Still no sign of my plans and no response to email. Not sure what to do. Might just have to fake it on the canopy.

[T.S.Davis]

Sure, the highest point at the back of the seat is 2 5/8" the overall length is 27".

Any chance you could snap pictures of the top and side views of the plans? Not sure I'll ever see the plans I ordered.

[pescador]

I just sent you a couple pics via PM, hopefully it's what you're looking for, if not let me know.

[Greg Schweers]

Basically, the modern rules are saying--you can run any shaft (which means if you want to run a pretzel for a shaft). It also says you can run any size turn fin. You can also modify the sponsons.

Vintage class--you cannot modify the sponsons; and they're giving you the dimensions for the turn fin. You can run any shaft, as long as it's straight through the strut.

You're missing the key words: follow all rules above "except"

I talked to Dave a few years ago about this. You can run a straight shaft, which is way harder to set up than an adjustable strut. Most likely you'd be adding lead to the back of the boat.