New P Sport Hydro 2015!

[ray schrauwen]

What is it a 1515 or 1521?

Funny you mentioned that. This little squirt blew the doors off that bigger motor I had in it earlier in the year.... and with much less current draw. Go figure??!!

I noticed that the lap times for P Sport were pretty much in line with LSH last year at the Elks. Those days are over with these bigger boats that can handle speed!!!!

[T.S.Davis]

'skin the cat'

You guys skin cats? Does that make them faster? I'll try that on my next build. No more chicken sacrifices for speed!

[detox]

What is it a 1515 or 1521?

Looks like the longer 1521 will not fit unless you move the motor mount plate back. Damn...now I have to reposition the motor mount. This boat is almost perfect. Can you go back to the drawing board and fix? Move the mount cross piece back 1 1/2" - 2"

[T.S.Davis]

If he decided to put a bigger motor in there he can just move the speedo to the space next to the stuffing tube. I've seen that motor combo go in his last boat. He's not power starved by any stretch.

[Shooter]

Ray - It's a 1515-1Y.

Sniffer - Not sure what to tell you about this cat skinning thing!?

DTox - Last year I ran the batts lengthwise in the front with the ESC between them. The batts fit through the two square openings in the bulkhead. Plenty of room for longer motor if you package it that way.

BTW, I followed all of your build threads. You are a master at this stuff!! I'm sure you could cut a few slots and move the frame pc back if you had too!

[flraptor07]

That's what I got for mine Pete, 1515 1Y and a SF 200 Pro+. I think I'm gonna slide my ESC under the deck on the right side beside the motor. I did that on my GP400 and it worked out nice, radio box on that side too aft of the motor.

[Shooter]

OK, I think the cowl is done, or at least 'I'm done'. Ended up somewhere in the middle of all the options. I lengthened the scoop a bit per Chris's suggestion. I think it looks pretty good. The nose is certainly longer than the UL-1, but I think it is more scale for this size boat. The contours obviously won't be as sharp once I mill it and sand it.

[Shooter]

I started the steering link on the V5.3 boat....using the typical 3mm SS rod that I've been using. Tried and true system with virtually no slop.

The integrated servo mount was designed such that the link will be a 'straight shot' to the servo. There was actually a lot of planning there.

[flraptor07]

OK, I think the cowl is done, or at least 'I'm done'. Ended up somewhere in the middle of all the options. I lengthened the scoop a bit per Chris's suggestion. I think it looks pretty good. The nose is certainly longer than the UL-1, but I think it is more scale for this size boat. The contours obviously won't be as sharp once I mill it and sand it.

Pete, That's Badass!! I like it! You got my seal of approval, for whatever that's worth....

[T.S.Davis]

Ya know.........rather than a vacuum form plug. ..........we could just make a mold of that.

[Shooter]

Thanks Chris. Still maybe a few tweaks. Need to make sure mirrors and headers mount OK. That adds the finishing touch IMO. For now, I will just use the UL1 headers, but I plan to make some really cool ones!!

Terry, I can definitely see some fiberglass or CF work in the future!!! Yummy!!!! I might be picking your brain some.

[T.S.Davis]

Your little canopy might need a two piece mold but the part is so small it wouldn't be that big of a deal.

[flraptor07]

Thanks Chris. Still maybe a few tweaks. Need to make sure mirrors and headers mount OK. That adds the finishing touch IMO. For now, I will just use the UL1 headers, but I plan to make some really cool ones!!

Terry, I can definitely see some fiberglass or CF work in the future!!! Yummy!!!! I might be picking your brain some.

Yeah I think those UL-1 headers are a little small for scale, they need to be just a hair bigger. But headers would look awsome if they are the right size, that's why I never really liked the UL-1 headers cause they're just too small..

[Shooter]

Finished the steering on one of the boats. 10mm OD brass tube is epoxied into the transom to accept an aquacraft boot. The pushrod is 3mm in diameter. It is threaded at both ends, for an RPM ball cup on the servo end and a dubro clevis on the rudder end. There is virtually no slop and it is 'pulling' to turn right. I sized the motor mount rails so that it is a straight shot back to the servo (no bends). This will work for speedmaster hardware as well (1.9" from rudder to strut centerline with the mounting plates adjacent to each other).

The brass tube was shifted slightly to the left to account for pushrod lateral movement as the rudder swings.

[Shooter]

Turnfin brackets mounted.