New P Sport Hydro 2015!
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Shooter lookin good, I'm running 2nd to ya , lol. here's what I got done, also can u show us the center nose pc, S7301120.jpgS7301118.jpgS7301119.jpgComment
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Just out of curiosity...
Can you guys get some weights after the inside is completely sealed, but before you put the top skins on? It looks like both of you are near/at the point in the build.
Later,
BallComment
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I'll weigh mine later. I don't skimp on the resin though. The nose of each sponson is filled, and I like to make nice fillets on the frame pcs. Probably going to be heavy by your standards, Mike.Comment
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Darryl,
These are the only nose pc photos I could find (previous build). The UL-1 nose was Detox's idea. Somewhere in one of his build threads is the diagram that shows the dimensions. I'll dig it up when I get a chance.Comment
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Weight = 2lb1oz.
Turn fin mount and flotation done. I'll hit the deck this weekend.Comment
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The 'sinister nose drop' attitude looks cool.
I once brought my Whiplash back to shore a little too fast and caught it by hand. The sharp tip on sponson stabbed hand pretty deep....OUCH.
Here are three pictures. Cut angles on table saw. Next I outlined the round nose shape I wanted on end of bass wood (Using inside of UL-1 nose cone as template). Then I rounded front edge by gluing (3m spray adhesive) 80 grit paper to big piece of mdf board then sanded by pulling piece toward me and across paper following ouline.
First one on left is 1 3/16" thick for Q sport (This thicker version fills OEM UL-1 nose cone best) locater pad glued to top (much easier to do).
The other is 1 1/16" thick for P sport. Locator pad glued to bottom (much harder filling gap to fit nose cone and fitting loctor pad).Last edited by detox; 12-12-2014, 05:37 PM.Comment
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thanks Detox, this will help. is the weight needed for the front? if not , could you hot wire the shape out of pink foam
an over lay it with 1/16 ply .Comment
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The photo on the right from Detox is exactly what I used. As for weight, it wouldn't hurt to have some up there. If you look at my previous build I ended up using a solid pc of basswood and drilling it out at bit. Also, I filled my sponson tips with epoxy (for strength mostly), but it also adds weight.
D - I can imagine how that felt! I impaled a buoy once. It went right thru without any damage to the sponson tip. These wood boats are pretty darn strong when built right.Comment
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I used bass wood because it is stronger, but heavier. I also used stainless wood screws to fasten inner sponsons to cross pieceComment
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The photo on the right from Detox is exactly what I used. As for weight, it wouldn't hurt to have some up there. If you look at my previous build I ended up using a solid pc of basswood and drilling it out at bit. Also, I filled my sponson tips with epoxy (for strength mostly), but it also adds weight.
D - I can imagine how that felt! I impaled a buoy once. It went right thru without any damage to the sponson tip. These wood boats are pretty darn strong when built right.
First one on left is 1 3/16" thick (This thicker version fills OEM UL-1 nose cone opening best) locater pad glued to top (much easier to do).Attached FilesComment
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OK, finally got the deck on. Still need to sand it. This is going to be one bad P-Sport.
I've been working on the cowl. Some of the concepts are shaped more like an 'eagle's head' as opposed to the 'dolphin nose' from Jones (Smokin' Joe's/aquacraft UL-1).
The V1 original cowl fits perfectly.Attached FilesComment
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