Cool Chris thanks. Im not gunna lie, im scared as hell to put aircraft stripper in the hull... not because of what it may do inside, but what it may do outside as well. Then I gotta get it all cleaned out well... what a PITA. Im seriously starting to lean to the 80 grit the hell out of it to get as much out as possible and carbon it.
Tiquemans HPR 135
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Lets do a poll
Try and clean it out and keep it original "ORIGINAL"
Or deal with a mishap, not my faulty and Carbon it "Carbon"
I have no doubt I can make it look nice carboning, I just hate to cover up what was once beautiful HPR craftsmanship
We need a vomiting avatarComment
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Got some info on a similar situation from a member. Hes got some suggestions Im going to try out. Involves no chemicals which I like.Comment
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Scott, I got a Idea how about some finished CF sheet. Epoxy it down over the bad areas in the sponsons and put all the components in from there.Comment
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Won't quite work like that. Besides I'd have to cover the entire hull...Comment
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Scott, I am sold on the CF inlay idea. Will make your interior black and your parts stand out. rub rub rubVisit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
"Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"Comment
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Ahh man this totally sux, i honestly feel a rage coming over me as i read through this total F*#% up.
Ok, i dont have an answer for you to fix it.
But i have been down a similar path. I once got a guy to do a carbon inlay for me in my cto3 as it was just fibre glass.
It was so YUCK and disapointing to look at i started sanding it down again to do it my self.
What i can tell you is its a LOT of effort!!! More than you can imagine! I spent so many hours sliding my hands up n down till all my skin was coming off my hands. Its hard to get sanding blocks in the sponsons and because of the steps in the sponson theres high and low spots you just need to do by hand.
When you think your done depending on how fussy you are, you clean it out let it dry and go NOPE needs more.
Heres the inlay i did to my CT03, I just did the tunnel and with the sponsons just sanded them down and added resin once sparkly clean to give a shiny finish. inlay.jpgComment
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And just to make you feel a little better, maybe ease the pain!
Heres the result of the paint job the same guy did..
I hope this gives you a smile about your dilemma for at least a second or so :)
paint.jpg
But when i was about to give up, i picked myself back up and got to work.
And now i couldnt be happier with the result!
I just wont ever be able to sell it as it had 4 billion hours spent on it haha!!Attached FilesComment
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as well.
I vote "Try and clean it out and keep it original "ORIGINAL"" if at all possible.Comment
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Ahh man this totally sux, i honestly feel a rage coming over me as i read through this total F*#% up.
Ok, i dont have an answer for you to fix it.
But i have been down a similar path. I once got a guy to do a carbon inlay for me in my cto3 as it was just fibre glass.
It was so YUCK and disapointing to look at i started sanding it down again to do it my self.
What i can tell you is its a LOT of effort!!! More than you can imagine! I spent so many hours sliding my hands up n down till all my skin was coming off my hands. Its hard to get sanding blocks in the sponsons and because of the steps in the sponson theres high and low spots you just need to do by hand.
When you think your done depending on how fussy you are, you clean it out let it dry and go NOPE needs more.
Heres the inlay i did to my CT03, I just did the tunnel and with the sponsons just sanded them down and added resin once sparkly clean to give a shiny finish. [ATTACH=CONFIG]107619[/ATTACH]
Unfortunately no. The worst of the yellow overspray would be from about mid motor to the back, up the sponson transom and across the entire overhang floor. The the reast of the entire hull floor is clear. Not overspray clear, but CLEARED. There are a few spots, Ill call it 30% that is between overspray and solid clear. The rest of it is thick, deep and shiney. Not that that particular part looks horrible, but, Im afraid I wont get a good bond of anything on top of it. And scuffing... Id almost have to go back and reclear after the build to make all the scratches go away.Comment
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By any chance, have you asked Hans Peter how he would handle this fix? Maybe he has a cool idea? Maybe even get some carbon cloth from him? My fix, send the painter the bill. I'm sure you would have told him from the beginning to look after this hull more than anything else. If he failed to listen or didn't follow through its kind his mistake. We all put our 5c in but it's very personal how we feel about our boats and work. Sorry to say I would have a hard time trying to fix also. I always measure 5 times, as I know if I drilled a hole in the wrong spot, I would feel like I ruined the hull.Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
"Follow someone's footsteps and you will always be a step behind"Comment
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Thank you to all who offered suggestions and tips on how I might tackle this. I had some great PM's as well. Unfortunately, the only thing that worked was aircraft stripper. I did accomplish getting 95% of the clear out as well as 100% of any oversprayed colors that were in it. So that was a success. However, some of the areas lightened as if you were to bend a piece of fiberglass and it gets that white cloth look inside it... It seems that it did it where I scrubbed harder with the soft wire brush I was using (brass bristle), but also showed up in places that I didn't hardly scrub at all, so maybe it was just a reaction from the chemical. I also used a nylon bristle brush (both the nylon and wire were tooth brush size) a couple different scrapers, scotch brites and a lot of elbow grease.
Once done I went ahead and sanded it all down a bit, cleaned it extra well and dabbed in a layer of epoxy resin, then blotted, rolled and soaked almost all of it out, just enough to try and make it look bagged again. It was mostly a success but the areas that have that "fiberglass break look" stayed whitish in color. Its hard to get a pic to show them but the one looking into the transom shows well whats throughout a lot of the hull. So, At least I can say I gave it my all and tried, but it looks like Im giving her a carbon job.Comment
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Its actually looking a little better... or maybe Im just getting used to looking at it. I have to keep reminding myself once built a lot of things will be covered, etc etc.
And I think Im agreeing with Kent about the "popping" of the plate. Black wont be so bad.Comment
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