so early we race the hydros and when the wind comes up it's FOOTY time
I have my hull {ebay probably would have been cheaper to get a new one. } I ended up removing his motor mount, rudder and drive line that was rather grungy. I did get a brushless motor with no name.
motor/esc/battery on the way
need strut/rudder/prop bby and MHZ USA are both out for a few days and Fuller does not have everything, may go with his anyway {he only is missing a prop}
I am back in the shop today if you need anything.
Randy
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
Here is a drawing of the new linkage design. Hopefully I can get some machined in the next day or two. I am getting ready for a race this week end and time is tight.
I hope this will be taken constructlively, with the leading edge of the rudder so far behind the piviot point it will take a lot of power to turn the boat. Small servos will not work well it will take a stronger servo to move the rudder. There is more if you want my advise.
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
I hope this will be taken constructlively, with the leading edge of the rudder so far behind the piviot point it will take a lot of power to turn the boat. Small servos will not work well it will take a stronger servo to move the rudder. There is more if you want my advise.
Hmmmm..... You have a point there Randy. I'm using an old Cirrus CS-20 (minimal torque), so I suppose I will be the guinea pig on this. Testing will occur soon.
I hope this will be taken constructlively, with the leading edge of the rudder so far behind the piviot point it will take a lot of power to turn the boat. Small servos will not work well it will take a stronger servo to move the rudder. There is more if you want my advise.
That has been a concern of mine too Randy. Technically it is only about .156" from the leading edge to the pivot point, but it is a small servo. Your expertise is always welcome Randy.
That has been a concern of mine too Randy. Technically it is only about .156" from the leading edge to the pivot point, but it is a small servo. Your expertise is always welcome Randy.
Ok hear it goes. The pivot point of the leading edge of the rudder has a big affect on the handling of the boat. If you add to the edge to put more rudder infront of the piviot this will give you power steering. How much is determed by the power. With Extereme high power I find that the leading edge needs to be on the piviot point. With less power you need more edge foward. This is the best infomation to this point of my testing.
I really like the auto cad picture it helps me see a lot. Wish I could do it.
I allso have problems with the way the flow of the water that comes off the hull and runs into bracket that holds the rudder.
It is late and I need to spray some molds and go home and sleep, more tomorrow as I have time. I hope this helps.
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
The BBY MTH is getting there. Speed was right there with the MHZ shovels. It was hopping pretty bad at first, then I started to go down in prop size/pitch and it helped. So did moving the battery back. The ride pads overhung the outer anti-trips and I think this gave me some erratic cornering (see video ). I have now sanded them off and have a sharp anti-trip. The servo mount was a bit soft; I've firmed it up now. It seemed to need a lot of left trim. Future ply frames will have an offset motor/driveline. I adjusted the turn fin angle a bit to counteract the tendency to turn right.
Looks like more testing might be in the works next weekend.
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Ok, here are a couple photos of the updated rudder. I have moved the linkage pivot point up parallel with the hinge point. This will reduce the control rods side to side motion to a minimum.
I'm getting close. I'm happy with the way it rides, and the speeds. The straight shaft works well. Trimming the ride plates helped a lot with the cornering. I added a small non-trip to the inside of the right sponson to see if that would also help. If I do another run of wood frames, I will offset the driveline to the right by 1/4" or so to counter propwalk, and maybe raise the prop by about 1/16" or so. I still have a couple of the first run of frames, so I will let some of the SLOBS have them to try out.
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