Just getting some idea of layout, still wanting the weather to get warmer!! If the pics aren't here sorry I'm having trouble with Internet, this cyber-attack-war going on is really playing havoc with my servers.
Pics showing up fine. Things are getting serious under the hatch.
I know photos can be misleading. The Fantasm looks a little tight under the hatch - for its size - with your components in there. How does it compare to your other hulls? What's the biggest lipo pack you can fit?
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Disclaimer: I hereby accept the potential loss of motor, ESC, entire boat, or credit rating, and forfeit all expectations of success.
Pics showing up fine. Things are getting serious under the hatch.
I know photos can be misleading. The Fantasm looks a little tight under the hatch - for its size - with your components in there. How does it compare to your other hulls? What's the biggest lipo pack you can fit?
Sent from my HTC DNA using Tapatalk 2
A pic of her next to the king and a shocker hull. Similar to shocker. I like how that hull handled, saw, so being a bit wider I'm thinking it will handle running over its own wake on a return pass better.
And for the battery arrangement I can run one 4s and one 6s both 5 amps (5000mah) that will allow me to increase cg farther forward, 40+ percent, by having the 6s up front. Or running 2 4s per side,,, I made sure I would be able to get a 6s into her even with the possibility of a battery swelling (some not puffed) I will still be able to remove fairly easily. Or running two 5s for a 10s configuration even with an extremely light set up using two 5s battery's feeding the whole system. Now that will have to be if the amp spikes will not destroy any battery's. I wouldn't know till actual testing but it is another possibility that can be done if current allows. I'm not real familiar with rules but can have 10000mah so I still have givin myself many possibilities with battery configuration and placement for extreme saw runs. The two batteries are both 5000mah , a 4s and a 6s hk. I'm switching my inventory over to dinogy batteries. Haven't purchased any yet so just grabbed some nanos.
I installed the hatch seal. I use so,e craft foam from a local craft store. It is adhesive backed, comes in different thicknesses, and multiple colors. The edges would have been a more clean cut but I didn't realize I ran out of blades on the knife. I traced the hatch then cut the seal wider than needed, installed and then trimmed to follow inside edge of hull.
I decided to modify the cooling system on the motors. The cooling is only as effective as the ability of the coolant. Having an unlimited supply of coolant the next variable would be flow. I believe (actually factual) that more flow equals more cooling. I went with 6mm high flow 90 degree fittings. Simply drilled and taped new holes. One other thing i did was locate a new hole on the left side. The jackets are generic as not being left or right. In order to keep the low fitting inlet and high fitting the outlet symmetrical this was needed. I will weld over the old hole or can just jb weld. Also some pictures of the size of inlet holes. The jackets came with adjustable fittings and in the picture you can really see the diameter of the hole the water has to flow. Now by effectively tripling the diameter here I just increased the effectiveness of the system by 300%. The one picture you can see the head-on view of stock fitting , new high flow fitting, and some different diameter cooling lines. (Sorry about the fur in the picture,a suicide photo bomber hit me, while I was holding a iPad for the camera, holding the fittings, and trying to focus. That's the mad cat!!).
10S 5000mAh per side - that's a lot-a-lipos And I thought trying to stuff a 6S 5000mAh in each side of my Daytona was a lot. Definitely much more space in the Fantasm if you can get fit 6S pack that far forward. This thing will be a beast.
Nice work on the cooling cans. Not a lot of thread engagement, so make sure the fittings are well secured. If you loctite, be careful not to get any inside the fitting. While the bigger fittings can't hurt, whether they help significantly depends on the rest of the flow path. Flow is mostly dependent on the effective area of the smallest orifice. If the bottle neck is somewhere else, then larger fittings won't help much. Since the old fittings looked pretty small and were sharp 90deg bends, your mod probably did help quite a bit.
Keep at it. I'm looking forward to the maiden.
Disclaimer: I hereby accept the potential loss of motor, ESC, entire boat, or credit rating, and forfeit all expectations of success.
Yup that's exactly why I did the cooling mod, did you see the pin hole of the fitting. That is the most restrictive part. The intakes are larger than the 5/16 tubing. The silicone waterline is slightly smaller , forget what I.d. ,than them. So the fittings are the restriction. And yes two 90 bends fairly close ( the 90 of the actual fitting and when the water hits the motor it's another 90, but 360 degree of flow. Another restrictive part. Ultimately the cooling lines heading into the cans at 180 would be best but not practical for my set up. And yes 10s is a saw only set up. For that I could just flush plug the intake for the motor. No need for cooling for two passes. I am still going to play with this boat so incorporating the ability for several different set ups was my goal. That rpm was reason for the motor choice, high rpm small props.
Well going to check things out with a 6s / 442 set up. Probably be a bit before I step up to anything over 8s and some worked props. I just had the cnc props on there for show. I don't think I'll be able to safely spin those size props at full tilt (10s), but the fun part of testing. I like to be conservative on working up to speed. And I will try and get video of some of the set-ups, as I never posted vids so more to figure out :)
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