36" rigger

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  • Boaterguy
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2011
    • 1760

    #46
    I have been told to avoid auto bailers, and the wet section would not be at the back, so I would have to run some kind of tubing all the way up, I could just leave it wet.

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    • wparsons
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2010
      • 461

      #47
      You only want to avoid auto bailers on a sealed area of the hull as they can potentially let water in if they get jammed. In a wet well, there's no danger at all. Lots of nitro guys run them as well to let any water out during a run.

      It wouldn't matter if they were at the back of the boat or not, the just let water out but not in when working correctly.
      Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.

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      • Boaterguy
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2011
        • 1760

        #48
        But would a hole in the side of the boat not cause drag when planing? or does that matter because at higher speeds it will be out of the water?

        Comment

        • wparsons
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2010
          • 461

          #49
          If the side of your tub is in the water while planing you have bigger problems than the drag from an auto bailer.
          Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.

          Comment

          • Boaterguy
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2011
            • 1760

            #50
            well, when sitting, the boat is slightly underwater, I guess once it starts going it won't be a problem.
            Got a little work done today, I built a cooling plate for the mount, but it doesnt fit I might just put a heatsink on the mount, with aircooling, It should be fine, once I have heat issues, I will figure out a better solution. The whole top of the tub is built, All I need is to get the hardware so I can figure out the size of the wet section, I'll get an auto bailer from OSE, and run it without for the first few runs, just to see how much water really gets in, I'll sell it off if Its reasonable.

            Comment

            • HOTWATER
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Nov 2008
              • 2323

              #51
              Why don't you just get rid of the scoop, sell your outrunner and buy an inrunner!!! I don't get all of the fuss about the scoop....also, you may want to rethink that turnfin...it will need some more suface area for it to hold the boat in the turns well...JMO.......

              I do like the fact that you are building something from scratch though....good job!
              "Will race for cookies!"
              IMPBA D12
              My Gallery: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/album.php?u=1738

              Comment

              • Boaterguy
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2011
                • 1760

                #52
                I liked the OR because it is the exact KV I need, + its all I can afford.
                I have never bought a hull, I got a tug from a friend all of the others I build with my grandfather. He just had a stroke so Im on my own.

                Comment

                • HOTWATER
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Nov 2008
                  • 2323

                  #53
                  Sorry to hear your grandfather had a stroke....that's always tough...

                  good luck with the outrunner...
                  "Will race for cookies!"
                  IMPBA D12
                  My Gallery: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/album.php?u=1738

                  Comment

                  • Boaterguy
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 1760

                    #54
                    Thanks, I've been up with him, he seems to remember helping my with my hydro, that's always good. baby steps.
                    Back to the build, Thanks, I will look forward to the outrunner, I've always felt they sound a little better, off to bed for me.

                    Comment

                    • Boaterguy
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2011
                      • 1760

                      #55
                      So, I ordered the FC 1970kv OR a few days ago, I will pick up a balancer and stop being lazy. I want to go with an octura X447, will it be a good size? I'm also gonna pick up a TFL 48mm prop from HK, being only 7 bucks, might as well, if it doesn't work, again it will be sold. I think i'll go with a .187 cable, and 3/16 shaft, since that will fit the TFL, I can get an octura to fit on that since they have more than one prop and they actually PUT THE DIMENSIONS!!! *hint hint* hobbyking.
                      I'll start putting together the order from OSE, and figure out a nice paint job.. Any suggestions?
                      then its to the Cat, if anyone sees the thread, suggestions please :)

                      Comment

                      • Boaterguy
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 1760

                        #56
                        Got the motor a couple days ago, (sorry about putting fingerprints on your sexy motor ben) the size it is won't allow it to be mounted at an angle, what are my options other than putting an S bend? I read on a cat thread they weren't as bad as they look, is this true?

                        Comment

                        • wparsons
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2010
                          • 461

                          #57
                          You can always build in a raised section on the hatch, lots of riggers need this to clear the motor. This is one you can buy for a JAE rigger, but you could build something similar to give you more room:

                          Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.

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                          • Boaterguy
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2011
                            • 1760

                            #58
                            I don't know if I want to completely rebuild a htach, do you know if the S bands have more resistance?

                            Comment

                            • wparsons
                              Senior Member
                              • Aug 2010
                              • 461

                              #59
                              Any time you add more of a bend you're adding some resistance, but the bigger issue is that you're isolating where the shaft touches the tube so there's more friction on a smaller area.

                              Lots of nitro boats run them without issue, but they aren't revving to the same range that most FE boats are.
                              Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.

                              Comment

                              • Boaterguy
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Apr 2011
                                • 1760

                                #60
                                alright, I guess I'll have to rebuild the hatch
                                I'll keep the hatch and cut out a center section, and put the raised part there.

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