36" rigger

[Boaterguy]

I've got all the components, and it totals out to $397.55 I am not this OCD about prices, my parents are. Time to start being a really good kid!

[Boaterguy]

Here is one of the sponsons, they are both built, 1' long and 2" square at the back. The supposed turnfin is 1/16" thick, 2.5" would be in the water (hanging off the sponson) Is it right for this boat? It is an old rudder, and would have to be sharpened (I have LOTS of filing to do) Everything is ready, I just need some CF rods to put the sponsons on the tub. Is 1/4, 1.5' long good? that way the total span of the boat would be 1.5', + a little bit of the sponson that doesn't have cf in it, I would drill all the way through and dent the other side of the sponson, and glue it on that.
All that's really left is to get all the parts!
I am going to my LHS probably, I need the fuel tubing (water cooling) some bullet connectors for the batt (deans just won't make the cut this time), anything else i should pick up that I can't get in my order on OSE/HK?
Edit: I want to order the X447, but It is out of stock, sharpened and balanced. I do not have the equipment or skills to sharpen and balance a prop, how about the prather 215 or 220? does anyone have experience with these props?

[Meniscus]

The Prather props are most likely too much pitch. What will happen is, the prop will climb out of the water and 'blow out' at speed.

What I recommend is this. Place a watch on the S/B prop you'd like to order. That will give Steven (the owner of OSE) the indicator that someone wants to purchase one of these and help have some S/B for stock. In the meantime, you have a lot of building to do, not to mention sealing. Then, when you get ready, hopefully OSE will have it in stock. If not, then you reach out on the Swap Shop. I'm sure someone will come forth with the prop you're looking, fully S/B.

[Boaterguy]

good advice, thanks for the tips everyone!

[Boaterguy]

I know its been a while, I've been distracted
anyways, I am almost done building the top, one more piece to put on, the hatches are done, I need to figure out a system for locking them, I had an Idea for locking both at the same time, I think I'll go with that.
ANYWAYS: I got a turn fin built out of aluminum (almost an hour tapering with a file) and I got one of the two air scoops (one in, one out) built, it is glueing right now. I will be going with the FC 1970kv OR , so I want to put some air cooling in, they will be sealed for shakedowns, once I know the boat is stable enough, I will open them up so I can sustain run times with some more cooling. I think I have decided on the T180 since I can't aford any of th SF esc's.
As for batts, I think I will get a 5S pack from hoppypartz. something around 5000mah 35-45C
Pics will come in a min, I will take them and upload after I post this, and put them in the next post.

[Boaterguy]

This is the air scoop, turn fin (what do you think of the design?) and tub with hatches installed, next is sealing.. need to get some west systems. then comes paint.
Edit: do rigger turn fins need to be bent inward like a hydro fin?

[wparsons]

I wouldn't put scoops on it, they will possibly let in lots of water and could end up sinking the boat. As long as you don't get way too aggressive with the prop you should be fine with just normal water cooling.

[Boaterguy]

Outrunners aren't watercooled, so this would be the only cooling, I don't know if I'll keep it, but i'll keep them on there because I like the looks and theres a hole there now ops:

[Boaterguy]

Or i Could do watercooled mounts, but I'm making them myself, that's gonna be a challenge.

[wparsons]

Making a cooled mount isn't hard a tall. Just cut a piece of brass plate enough taller than the base of the motor to run a piece of brass tubing above and below the motor, then solder on a tube to the top and bottom of the flat plate.

Your other option is to just buy a cooled mount. What size is the outrunner you have? You should be able to find a complete cooled mount to take the base from for about $15.

[Simon.O.]

An Outrunner can be run air-cooled in a rigger, it just takes a bit more work during the build.
My Newest rigger has an exposed OR motor and it is a hoot, see the build thread.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=22903

[Boaterguy]

I was thinking of doing a wet section like in yours, just two bulkheads and a drain of some sort, I'll figure that out sometime
As for the mount, I don't really want to buy one, but i might have to..

[wparsons]

If you do a wet section, make sure the whole motor mount, coupler, etc is inside the wet well. That also solves the problem of water coming up the stuffing tube.

[Boaterguy]

I think I might do a servo operated valve (5G servo) when cruising at a low speed, I can open the valve and let water out, just to make sure everything stays relatively dry.
I spent about 3 hours trying to solder the watercooled mount, got nothing done, I don't know what I was doing wrong, but it just didn't want to flow.
Should I run a stuffing tube, teflon, or both?

[wparsons]

You need to run a stuffing tube, whether you run teflon or not is your own preference. It needs to be contained in a metal stuffing tube though.

Adding a valve is just extra complexity. If you want it to drain, just use an auto bailer on that section.