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Almost done redoing the hatch, a few questions before I order packs. What is the CgG on riggers? I am thinking of putting a 2S pack up front of the motor, and a 3S pack behind, for 5S total. will this put the CG too fat back?
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Cg on riggers is like taste in women. There are a few basics and the rest is taste.
A common place to start is with the Cg 10% aft of the rear of the sponson rear.
This measurement is taken from the rear of the sponson to the prop hub and then 10% of that.
I run up to 25% for different hulls and different types of runs but 10 is a good place to start.See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with woodComment
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alright, when I get my packs i'll figure out approx 10%Comment
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Should I run the reccomended 7/32 tubing with no teflon for the flex? I've seen some people run 1/4 with no teflon, what is reccomended?
Edit, I know i've been asking a lot of questions, but I'm considering props, i'm gonna go with a TFL 47mm, and I can't decide between an x447 and a 2047, which one would be better for my setup? (1970kv on 5S) note: the motor is OR so it should be able to spin a slightly larger prop.Last edited by Boaterguy; 06-15-2011, 10:26 PM.Comment
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See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with woodComment
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I'd start small with the props, 1970 kv on 5s is a lot of RPM (41k unloaded), too big of a prop will make the first run really short. I would drop down to something like an x442 or x440 for the first run.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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I'll take a look, I only want to buy a few props, since S&B will be frustrating for the first time.
What are your thoughts on a tfl 43-47mm?
I think going smaller with bigger pitch might be a good idea to keep the revs down a bit.Comment
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Loading up a motor to keep the revs down will cause it to heat up and draw a lot more current.
Until you nail down a good prop size, just get some cf props, no need to S&B. Plus they're much cheaper to have a pile on hand.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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I have a K40 and a K40/3 (same as supervee stock)
I'll get a bigger carbon, I just don't want to keep making orders, since it's frustrating for my rents, and I'm not that good of a kid
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I think I figured out my props
TFL 47mm for high speed single or double passes since the temps will get up there
X442 for less speed and to let others try it, since they can put some abuse on the motors without worrying about temps too quickly
K40 will be a small prop for cruising, no full throttle (i'll set a DR on my TX) since carbon's can deblade at 35k, don't want that happening, yeeouch!Comment
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new hatch finished, I did a different one but I didn't like it so I got rid of it and made an open hatch
I might add something later, but I like the motor sticking out the top
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The wet section got a coat of epoxy today, later on I will put one on the bottom. Should I make something on the back like a Ski or sponsons?Comment
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The motor angle looks pretty extreme. Do you have room for a collet?
Looks like you have a bit of sanding to do yet.Comment
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I just have it like that right now, It will be adjusted, I have some tubing also, I'll get it bent properly, or should I wait until I have the strut placed?Comment
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Typically you mount the motor and the strut and bend the stuffing tube to run between them.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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