Looking good. I'm getting jealous your getting so much done, and I'm at a standstill.
Larrys 32" twin cat
Collapse
X
-
-
Wire Drive Retaining System
I ran these on my EKOS and when the one Feigaos let go,the .062 wire broke and I didnt lose my prop,drive dog or nut.Now,Ive upgraded to .078 wires for this build.
The 1st pic shows the order in which this has to be done.I dont know about other stingers,but this is how it gets assembled on EKOS stingers.The EKOS stingers are a 2-piece design.
First,remove the mounting plate from the stinger.
Second,assemble the stub shaft with the drive dog and teflon washer(if using a washer),where they need to go and tighten the set screw and slide the assembly in the stinger.
Third,slide the Dubro wheel collar down the wire from the motor end and make sure it doesnt protrude past the mounting plate.Tighten the set screw on the collar.
Lastly,install the mounting plate to the stinger making sure the collar does not protrude past the plate as it is bolted flat to the rear of the sponson.The pics showing the system assembled didnt come out too great,but you can see how it should be.
The wire drive will be assembled to the stinger,so to take the wire out,you ll have to dis-assemble the system.Since wire drives are close to maintenance free,all you should have to do is pack the stuffing tube and stinger good with grease and you ll be good to go for quite some time.Comment
-
Larry, that's an awesome way to keep the shafts in the stingers! I have some of those wheel collars and am going to try this with the 70mm struts I have on Das Boot.
Very cool.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
-
A bit more done
I finally have the motor mounts glassed in.I havent been in too much of a hurry since the water is froze here.The rest of the build is all down hill from here.Mounting these motor mounts in particular is kind of a pain.Not too much enjoyment comes from installing these.I could have bought new mounts,but figured I have these and might as well use them and save the money.The piece of fiberglass cloth is what I have been using to re-inforce the hull and to glass the mounts in.Its Bondo brand from Advance Auto Parts.I dont know the correct name of this cloth-I just call it cheese cloth.From my experience this cloth is stronger than the chopped matting.Attached FilesComment
-
Steering
I got the Speedmaster rudder mounted.It is an offset type,which works just fine.If you have a center mounted rudder,use it,but an offset works just the same.
The floor in this hull has a V shape to it,so the servo arm would rub the floor.I used the stock EKOS rudder and cut it to the same length as the servo mount and it works perfectly.I sanded the bottom of the mount,the old rudder,and the floor of the hull and used epoxy.Worked great.Comment
-
Water Cooling
I used to use the dual pickup water pickups bought here at OSE,and couldnt see the water coming from the outlets,so I decided to try to make my own.Ive seen this done on other peoples builds and this style supposodly picks up more water.
I have the motors and esc's cooled separately,so I made 4 pickups.This was my 1st time making these,and they arent so perfect,but they do the job better than my old ones.I also sanded them flush with the bottom of the hull.
I also re-used the EKOS fake exhaust pipes which I use for the water outlets.This set up works good and kind of gives the hull a "scalish"look.Comment
-
Changing Bullets
The Arc motors came with 3.5mm banana plugs,which arent up to task,so I swapped them out for HK 5.5mm bullets.I also use 8mm bullets on the battery side of the esc.Attached FilesComment
-
Heres my set-up.I have the batteries in the sponsons pretty far forward.The COG is exactly 10 1/2".There is just enough room for the gps for when I want to use it.I think it turned out nice and clean.The clear water tubing is a nice touch also.I used pipe insulation to keep the batteries where they need to be and it adds more flotation.Comment
-
Hatch
Suckmywake and myself re-inforced the hatch and using his idea,made a "mold" of the canopy using expanding foam to be used as flotation.The foam is flush with the hatch and will not interfere with anything inside the hull.Ill seal the foam up with epoxy.Attached FilesComment
-
Finished!!
Here she is!!Its ready for the maiden voyage,which happened earlier today after finding water that wasnt frozen.
I started with the stingers at neutral and used TFL 38 x 55 counter rotating props.The water was a bit choppy and it only went 53mph on the gps.Temps were very very cool.I just did a finger test to check cooling as I forgot my temp gun.Next time Im lowering the stingers a hair and using X442's to really make it move.This boat should be hitting mid 60's at least with these motors.
Johnson might be posting a video of the 1st run too.Attached FilesComment
-
Nice work! You've beeten me to building my twin with the same motors. I have a pair of 442's that are D/T & cupped. Should be a hoot!
Did you make a parellel connection for your batteries? That way no matter which pack is weaker, both motors will see the exact same voltage.Nortavlag Bulc
Comment
-
Video
Took some driving around to find some water that wasn't hard. It was choppy but everything turned out good.
Hpr 115, Neu 1521 1.5d x2. Delta force Pirate, Insane 45" Neu 2230Comment
-
Nice work! You've beeten me to building my twin with the same motors. I have a pair of 442's that are D/T & cupped. Should be a hoot!
Did you make a parellel connection for your batteries? That way no matter which pack is weaker, both motors will see the exact same voltage.Comment
-
Thanks Eric for putting the vid up.I still have to watch it myself.We need to get another using the 442's.Im really not happy with the speed today,but its the 1st run and theres more time to tune too.Comment
Comment