4 Prop Conquest build

[rearwheelin]

Awesome build!! just love the way the 4 motors sound. were you able to channel mix to slow down the inner props when turning? real nice

No channel mixing yet , I plan on it latter on. I have a DX6i I thought would be able to do the job but found out that 5 programing mixes are needed to mix the steering with thrust differential and the DX6 only has 3 mixes. I need the DX8.

[wparsons]

Why do you need 5 mixes to mix in differential thrust?

[rearwheelin]

Why do you need 5 mixes to mix in differential thrust?

Not exactly sure . A good friend of mine who does 3D flying with helies and jets has a go to guy who is a expert flyer and rc plane designer told him that. I could use a DX6i but would have to steer with two sticks. Maybe they are wrong . In order to mix in the steering with thrust difs it take 5 mixes .... Its got me too.

[wparsons]

How are you controlling the 4 ESC's? Y harnesses?

I think if you use two Y harnesses you can make it work with two mixes...


1) Activate flaperon.
2) Mix Thro > Flap (both +100%)
3) rev the Aileron Channel
4) Mix Aileron > rudder (both +100% and rev the rudder channel) or (simply both -100%) [that's the way I think the mixes work, like dual rates: % is travel and +/- rev which half]

taken from here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907240

there's another suggestion in the 2nd post on the first page, but I believe it's the exact same as the above instructions, just not worded as clearly.

[rearwheelin]

How are you controlling the 4 ESC's? Y harnesses?

I think if you use two Y harnesses you can make it work with two mixes...


1) Activate flaperon.
2) Mix Thro > Flap (both +100%)
3) rev the Aileron Channel
4) Mix Aileron > rudder (both +100% and rev the rudder channel) or (simply both -100%) [that's the way I think the mixes work, like dual rates: % is travel and +/- rev which half]

taken from here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907240

there's another suggestion in the 2nd post on the first page, but I believe it's the exact same as the above instructions, just not worded as clearly.

Using 3 y harneses to make 1 channel. I havent even played with the DX6i yet, havent had the time . Really want to see if it can do the job soon, if it doesn't I will have to sell it and get the 8. Thank you for your info I will check in to it.

[wparsons]

You'll need to use 2 y harnesses, each plugged into the channels mentioned above. It should be pretty straight forward to get going I think!

[rearwheelin]

My CG is @ 30% and The 10s was only a test,

I really did not like the 10s and returned to 12s.

Harry

Was wrong on the cg...is 30% , will be higher when I run it on 6s.

[rearwheelin]

Water cooled capaciters !!!!

Decided to water cool the capaciters ! Thought it would be kind of trick way to bring temps down fast and or slow the build up of heat while runing in hot setup .
Also was going to pre cool and post cool the electrics using a 1 gallon weed sprayer mixed with ice water. This chilled everything down to 40 degree f ...........
Allmost ready for the L.A. SAW next month ! ...14+hp on 6s !

[rearwheelin]

Ran it on 6s today !

Took it for a test run on 6s , everything was remarkable cool and should have no problems next month at the L.A. SAWS. . The water cooled capaciters worked very well , virtually no heat ! On my first pass the water line blew off wear it hooks into the transom , also had some prop oscellation wear the boat rocked too much , getting off the throttle and back on would help and sometimes wouldn't oscellate at all. I think when I put 4 turnigy 2s 5.0's under the bow it moved the CG to far forward, next time will run the batteries next to the 4s packs.
After pluging the water line back testing was about the same this time the boat seemed to start running a litttle wet and figured no sence in continuing the test run. Noticed the boat looked a little heavy in the water and when picking it up I felt the surge . So after taking the hatch off seen the same water line blew but inside this time. There was about a gallon in it soaking my castle bec and batteries , basically everything was splashed. Aparently testing the cooling system to 50 p.s.i. isn't nearly enouph, I will be taking it to 100 p.s.i. ! After running with an extra few pounds everything was very cool still. I believe in water cooling the caps and pre cooling everything by tying in a weed sprayer filled with ice water and pumping a gallon, seems too work ! Do need to run on the bigger lakes now when running 6s, ran on the lake in my other test video's and was barelly able to skweez the throttle all the way . The best news is nothing has aparently been damaged....

[RandyatBBY]

So how far are you from the SF Bay area? If you are close bring it to Fremont.

[bonewar]

Took it for a test run on 6s , everything was remarkable cool and should have no problems next month at the L.A. SAWS. . The water cooled capaciters worked very well , virtually no heat ! On my first pass the water line blew off wear it hooks into the transom , also had some prop oscellation wear the boat rocked too much , getting off the throttle and back on would help and sometimes wouldn't oscellate at all. I think when I put 4 turnigy 2s 5.0's under the bow it moved the CG to far forward, next time will run the batteries next to the 4s packs.
After pluging the water line back testing was about the same this time the boat seemed to start running a litttle wet and figured no sence in continuing the test run. Noticed the boat looked a little heavy in the water and when picking it up I felt the surge . So after taking the hatch off seen the same water line blew but inside this time. There was about a gallon in it soaking my castle bec and batteries , basically everything was splashed. Aparently testing the cooling system to 50 p.s.i. isn't nearly enouph, I will be taking it to 100 p.s.i. ! After running with an extra few pounds everything was very cool still. I believe in water cooling the caps and pre cooling everything by tying in a weed sprayer filled with ice water and pumping a gallon, seems too work ! Do need to run on the bigger lakes now when running 6s, ran on the lake in my other test video's and was barelly able to skweez the throttle all the way . The best news is nothing has aparently been damaged....

Rearwheelin,

I feel your pain my friend.

My Simrad cat ,
2nd run for the day
1 of the inlet water tubes fails
and within 2 laps of the pond i almost sunk the cat.
The resulting mess was 2 hydra 120 amp lv esc's toasted!!!
Every water intake outlet in my boats are super glued in place NOW!!!!!
NO MORE PROBLEMS.

YOU ARE VERY LUCKY.

Good luck with the saw's i hope you kick butt.


Bonewar

[rearwheelin]

So how far are you from the SF Bay area? If you are close bring it to Fremont.

Plan on heading up to SantaRosa around Christmas but probably won't be bringing the boat. I will pm you sometime if ever I get time to head up there to run, Freemont is probably 4 hrs. Was at a weeding in Walnut Creek last year though.....

[rearwheelin]

Rearwheelin,

I feel your pain my friend.

My Simrad cat ,
2nd run for the day
1 of the inlet water tubes fails
and within 2 laps of the pond i almost sunk the cat.
The resulting mess was 2 hydra 120 amp lv esc's toasted!!!
Every water intake outlet in my boats are super glued in place NOW!!!!!
NO MORE PROBLEMS.

YOU ARE VERY LUCKY.

Good luck with the saw's i hope you kick butt.


Bonewar

I will try that I have wired wraped and twisted tight all of my conections except wear i used aluminum tubbing, didn't wrap those because they were the hardest to slip on........now I know better.
Did you glue after making conection or before slideing tubing on ?

[bonewar]

I will try that I have wired wraped and twisted tight all of my conections except wear i used aluminum tubbing, didn't wrap those because they were the hardest to slip on........now I know better.
Did you glue after making conection or before slideing tubing on ?

I use gap filling super glue with a cure time of 5-10sec.
It allows you just enough time to glue the water inlet/outlet an then slide on the tube.
I also glue around the fixed tubing and use a little wire wrap.
No leaks anymore.


Bonewar

[rearwheelin]

I use gap filling super glue with a cure time of 5-10sec.
It allows you just enough time to glue the water inlet/outlet an then slide on the tube.
I also glue around the fixed tubing and use a little wire wrap.
No leaks anymore.


Bonewar

Thanks , I just thought of a way other than re-doing all my cooling conections I will choke it between rudder and transom, simply slowing the flow but not the pressure should do the trick. Did find out that 75 psi and up will cause water tubing failure allthough I had a couple comprimized conections . Slowing the flow rate will be best for this beast on 6s I will fill my rudder spigets in with solder then drill them.