NAMBA P-Ltd Motor discussion

[ray schrauwen]

Why is the NEU 1410 2Y totally left out? it seems like a shoe in motor at a very reasonable price.
A castle motor seems very close to a Leopard or TP motor just more expensive. I don't ever recall NEU going and changing production to save a buck here or there like some other MNFCTR's. Neu does pride itself in consistent quality and are made in the USA. I figured this motor would have been a no brainer. Maybe, I'm the no brainer?
While i'm in the no brainer zone, if we went to D wind motors, one point of failure would be significantly reduced, the soldered windings inside the can.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SM&C=CKF&V=CSE
Bang for the buck Castle motors are close to a Neu. I can't see a 40mm motor on a P lmt list. Not sure why the 2200 kv limit? A 1415 2400kv would turn smaller props in the 40-42mm range for light weight tunnel hulls and riggers. In my mind 45-47mm props even down at 1800kv is risky.
Mic

Is this whole discussion about better, cheaper, equality or just more options?

[Grimracer]

Sean.. I vote #2... (OK.. you know I would..lol...)

Truth is we feel we have finely nailed down what’s needed to keep em lit.. But are still not sure 100%, if they are better or not. When will the current load end (Quest for more speed).. It might never end. Matter of fact Im sure of it.

Take care man and I hope you don’t feel ill of me for my being the boat monkey here at Hobbico... We have to get along as a hobby group man. Nothing that has happen regarding the situation was intentional… believe me.. (others don’t)

To all reading…
I suspect we might never satisfy the need if there is no end or limiter.
If I gave you 10% more power and reliability WOULD you not take advantage of it.. of cource you would and so would I. We are after all racing.. It sounds like even going back to where we were with the 2030, it was not really satisfying the need. (One guy reported changing them just because they were looking nasty).. I get it.. Like a loose con rod to me.. OZ of prevention..

#4 is a great direction too. Rules already in place!

Im out of this one.. choose your weapon and pull the throttle and let her eat!

Grim

[D. Newland]

...... you guys do know that no one is going to win this right? everyone will just get in there little groups and grumble until we get a few more motor choises

Yes. It's an FE internet requirement that we go through this exercise every once and a while. Just to make sure we still have a pulse.

One thing is common, though. We all love this hobby and want to make it better.

[D. Newland]

42mm x 12mm (about 1/2 in wide and 1 1/2 long). The block to hold it is only slightly larger.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/files/littelfuse/technical%20resources/documents/data%20sheets/littelfuse_automotive_bolt_down_fuse_bf1_32v.pdf

There is a time-delay so spikes above the rated value are not going to prematurely blow the fuse.

This price of $5.98 ea for 10 pieces can be way, way under-cut by buying in large volume. I'd bet at a few hundred pieces, the price would be less than half.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Fus...s=BF1+FUSE+32V

Found a better source. $3 each single units. In bulk (like 1000) we are talking $1-$1.50.

Whitey-Thanks for posting this. I actually looked at fusable wire a few years ago, as a similar concept to these fuses. The idea has merit, but I don't nearly have enough electrical knowledge to know if it would work.

My brainstorm idea a while ago was to have something like this for guys that want to race in P-Ltd with any P Motor they wanted, or use a motor from the P-Ltd list without the need to have a fuse.

Finding parity would be a never-ending thread, though. I'm fairly certain of that, so I back-burned the idea. Plus the fact that the production run variances of the motors requires a racer to stay on his toes, or risk results that started these threads in the first place.

I don't think it's necessary at this point, but I'd like to hear some feedback from you guys.

[raptor347]

Mic,
The 1415 CC/neu is lots more motor compared to the p-ltd list motors. I run an ABC 1816 (45.5mm) on my p-ltd rigger on the AQ 2030, for P hydro I just swap the 1415 CC/neu in and run the same prop and pick up 8 mph. I'm not having failures with either motor and the 1415 isn't even close to it's limit. I've made 99 mph passes with my heat race rigger on that motor with the right prop.

That prop (prepped the way I like it) on my boat (tuned the way I like it) and driven the way I tend to drive is what I've found to be the reliable limit of the AQ 2030 for me. Now if I take that setup out and drive poorly (choppy, overloading the corners, lane 20, cutting bouys etc.) I'll hurt the motor because I ran it too hard for too long. My combo is a 90 second full throttle combo, don't run it longer than that or the motor will be toast.

The only way to have a more robust motor is to run something with a higher wattage rating. For example, people are hurting 700 watt motors so we get a 1000 watt motor added to the list. Awesome, you've got a 30% safety margin. Only problem is the performance oriented racers (I'm one of them) will be putting 1000 watts to the prop in very short order.

I want to try Kevin's fuses. They look like they're worth a try. I like the idea of using a fuse as The fuse.

[Doug Smock]

I like the idea of using a fuse as The fuse.

Hey Brian,
I asked Bernie at Castle about fuses back (06?) when the Barracudas might burn as soon as you applied voltage. He advised against it due to the added resistance.
I think that it's worth testing at a lower loads around 80 to 90 amps. Where would you start for a limit?

[raptor347]

Hey Brian,
I asked Bernie at Castle about fuses back (06?) when the Barracudas might burn as soon as you applied voltage. He advised against it due to the added resistance.
I think that it's worth testing at a lower loads around 80 to 90 amps. Where would you start for a limit?

Let me look at some of my data logs.

[ron1950]

guys what amp draw limit is the motors on the current list capable of or recommended?

[R.J.S]

Ron,glad u brought that up!I have a NIB AQ 2030 in my hand and on the box it states...Max constant current:50A...Max surge current:80A/5sec!

[Darin Jordan]

Let me look at some of my data logs.

According to all of my data logs, my AQ2030 powered P-LTD OPC Lynx tunnel draws 85-90A, with maximum spikes up around 110A...

Let's get some 90A fuses and go play... :)

[R.J.S]

So,could the "fuse" be the ESC?Maybe a 90A limit?

[Doby]

Most ESC's are underrated...90 amp controller could actually be good for 120 amps...just another variable to address (or not)

[tjcast]

Sorry Tom, I should have left names out of my post. I my intention wasn't to throw you or you boat design under the bus. Simply, it was a situation where I could prove my point with additional information other than hot air. There is always more to the story for all of these cases.

No worries Mike that part of my post was an attempt at humor, but your data supports the fact that when we run these motors at that level we will burn them up.

[D. Newland]

guys what amp draw limit is the motors on the current list capable of or recommended?

I recommend to keep tabs on your motor temperature rather than amp draw. I find it safer that way. Keep the temps @ 125 degrees. You'll find average amp draw around 80 to achieve this temp, but every set up is different.

Focus on motor temp. Start conservative. I have a 4 page manifesto completed. It will be posted in the Tips Section of this forum. My gift to anyone that wants to enjoy P-Ltd racing.

[Doug Smock]

I recommend to keep tabs on your motor temperature rather than amp draw. I find it safer that way. Keep the temps @ 125 degrees. You'll find average amp draw around 80 to achieve this temp, but every set up is different.

Focus on motor temp. Start conservative. I have a 4 page manifesto completed. It will be posted in the Tips Section of this forum. My gift to anyone that wants to enjoy P-Ltd racing.

Here it is fellas. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-David-Newland

Really good stuff David! I put a sticky on it.
Thanks for taking the time to put it together.