Upgrade motors for King of Shaves

[scubasteve95]

1 question i do have is,
will the rear bearing hold the rod in place (tight so it spins with the shaft)
mine fits nice and snug (a few taps with a wooden handle sets it)
but do you think i need to glue it too?
or are you holding it in place another way?

[forescott]

I wouldnt glue the inner bearing in fear that it would be too hard to get it out. Thats what the teflon spacer is for. I had to glue one of my outer bearings because it would pop out occasionally. It just isnt a tight enough fit to stay in place on its own.

[FighterCat57]

Precisely, I saw the teflon and realized it won't hold under the power I'm throwing at it..
A metal spacer holds it solid..

Great observation.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but to help reduce friction, the spacer should be as large as possible and still fit in the stinger, leaving the most amount of room for the drive cable. If it spins too much with the cable, it will create more friction, as it has a larger circumference than the smaller drive cable. But, the difference at that level is negligible and probably won't be noticeable either way, with the exception of slightly more heat from the additional friction.


Clean out your PM box.

[scubasteve95]

I wouldnt glue the inner bearing in fear that it would be too hard to get it out. Thats what the teflon spacer is for. I had to glue one of my outer bearings because it would pop out occasionally. It just isnt a tight enough fit to stay in place on its own.

thats what i am asking(outer bearing)
the inner bearing will be set in place and held there by the tube and outer bearing
the outer bearing will still be able to move a very little making the tube loose,
because of the small amount of space left between the
strut and drive dog,even if the outer bearing is snug
would you still glue it?

[scubasteve95]

In the old days when guys made scratch built struts, they used a piece of brass tubing as part of a bushing. The grooves reduced friction, but My method is well lubed and the spacer is frictionless. It spins with the rotating assembly.

Good question!

what do you think bill?
glue outer bearing to be safe or not needed?
outer fits nice and snug in stinger.
80's metal

[Jeff Wohlt]

After designing and building 100+ struts and stingers with bearings I don't get it. No need for a spacer if the strut is machined right. If not and it is just a tube then a spacer would be needed to keep it from moving. Super glue or locitite reatainign compound should hold them fine unless the tube is not machined. I would machine them and move up a size in bearings. My struts are designed to have the bearing pressed in now.

Bill, got youre request....I will consider it but you have to go out and set some records and have my name on your boat. :) I plan to get some decals made so people can use them...had a bunch of reqiests for them.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

what do you think bill?
glue outer bearing to be safe or not needed?
outer fits nice and snug in stinger.
80's metal

Definitely a logical thought, but the outter bearing fits pretty snug and is flanged which prevents it from being sucked into the strut, and the drive dog holds it from popping out.

The inner bearing is the culprit of moving. Glue and other adhesives sound great, but even with a well ballanced prop, the harmony of the shaft spinning will break it free.

The only way to keep these things aligned is through a pressed fit, or a metal spaced retainer..

Answer to the question not needed.. Sometimes if you run a grossly unballanced prop, you'll destroy the fit of the outter bearing making it loose and in those cases I've been able sometines to press the metal to get a snug fit, but in many cases the strut is ruined once that outter bearing loses its fit..

Great question!

[LarrysDrifter]

Saw?

I agree, but I'm putting a considerable amount more power. Its basicly a SAW setup, it may work or may not but I'm willing to bet the boat will want a little more weight in the front than with the stock setup..

Its kinda like when we used to run N-1 and N-2 mono with 21 inch hulls and brushed motors, the N-1 setup runs the battery WAY back, then the N-2 setup had the battery way farther forward..

I see the stock setup as very low torque like an N-1 setup but its all yet to be seen.
Your concern is definitely a valid one..

I keep seeing this SAW.What does it stand for?And your ekos is awesome.Cant wait to see a video.:thumbup1

[scubasteve95]

I keep seeing this SAW.What does it stand for?And your ekos is awesome.Cant wait to see a video.:thumbup1

Straight A Way (SAW)
FULL/WIDE OPEN STRAIGHT RACE

[scubasteve95]

VENOM EKOS 4S 5000mah LIKE BUTTER

Thanx jeff & bill for all the quantity and quality
of info on that one..........
Don't need anything now but when i do jeff i will
hit you up for a pair of pro stingers and bearings
thanx again.........

[LarrysDrifter]

Saw

Straight A Way (SAW)
FULL/WIDE OPEN STRAIGHT RACE

Thank you sir.

[Simon.O.]

Straight A Way (SAW)
FULL/WIDE OPEN STRAIGHT RACE

1/2 correct.
A true SAW takes 2 passes. 1 north and 1 south or similar. The passes must be opposite directions.

Either way it is a nuts out full power pass usually with an insanely powered boat.

Think drags but there and back !

[BILL OXIDEAN]

I keep seeing this SAW.What does it stand for?And your ekos is awesome.Cant wait to see a video.:thumbup1

Thanx man! I'm really enjoying this toy boat thing..

[forescott]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but to help reduce friction, the spacer should be as large as possible and still fit in the stinger, leaving the most amount of room for the drive cable. If it spins too much with the cable, it will create more friction, as it has a larger circumference than the smaller drive cable. But, the difference at that level is negligible and probably won't be noticeable either way, with the exception of slightly more heat from the additional friction.


Clean out your PM box.

Yeah, the teflon does'nt do anything but keep the inner bearing from slipping backwards. The front and rear stinger bearings support the side load. I think adding anything between the two bearings that touches the prop shaft will just increase friction and heat. Thats why I used a piece of 3/16" prop shaft teflon tubing. Its small enough to fit inside the stinger, but large enough that the prop shaft fits inside it with plenty of slop.

[VIKOS]

I feel like a moron had an extra dog gear in the venom package which does fit the rcraceboat shafts and the screws are actually more flush due to being smaller so before I use any new hardware I'm gona run these parts first...aight off to the marina to test out this bad boy..haven't ran it in months then off the the post office to grab my parts.