Randy do you mean that the front of the ride pad was lower than the rear so the water was not separating from the sponson cleanly? The water would tend to ride up the sponson and then separate as it passed the rear and this would be leaving quite a bit of ride pad in the water and thus slowing it down. Please correct me if I am wrong as this could be of use to future rigger builders.
Motor Trouble?
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Randy do you mean that the front of the ride pad was lower than the rear so the water was not separating from the sponson cleanly? The water would tend to ride up the sponson and then separate as it passed the rear and this would be leaving quite a bit of ride pad in the water and thus slowing it down. Please correct me if I am wrong as this could be of use to future rigger builders.Several boats in various stages of destruction -
i have used the latest Version of CClink and i get a steady light on the ESC under full throttle, i have the motor timing set to Low as i understand you cant or shouldnt put timing into a D wind motor.
the RTR weight of the boat in 3.1 kg ,
just took it a for a run this morning, after resetting the sponsons, cracked 58klm with a X445 but it just seems like its lacking punch, i did get up on plane easy this time.
will get new lifter prop tommorrow and see how that goes....keep you postedreturning to boats after a big breakComment
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Good to see you have made some progress John.
I still think your prop is too small for 4s on that motor.
Low timing is correct.Several boats in various stages of destructionComment
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has anyone asked what kind of batteries you are using ("C" rate, brand)?
I used 30C cells PQ, NEU and Elite a lot and they are good cells, but when
I started using 35C cells it was night and day, a VERY noticeable difference.:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::Comment
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John, Mr. Krabs weighs 2.408 kg with hatch tape and ready for the waterLast edited by Xzessperated; 03-20-2009, 09:49 PM.Several boats in various stages of destructionComment
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hmmmm...... mine seems a little heavy then.. my mates H & M maritimo weighs 3.1 on 6s . my batts are 25c 4900 Poly Rc, up till now they have been brillant!
here's some photos hope they shed some light on my set up.
returning to boats after a big breakComment
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i have used the latest Version of CClink and i get a steady light on the ESC under full throttle, i have the motor timing set to Low as i understand you cant or shouldnt put timing into a D wind motor.
the RTR weight of the boat in 3.1 kg ,
just took it a for a run this morning, after resetting the sponsons, cracked 58klm with a X445 but it just seems like its lacking punch, i did get up on plane easy this time.
will get new lifter prop tommorrow and see how that goes....keep you posted
DouggieComment
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John,
I might be wrong because pictures do lie but in the picture below the booms do not appear to be parallel. Please tell me it is just my old eyes.
Several boats in various stages of destructionComment
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I had a pair of PolyRc 2s packs and they would not get my very light weight
Blizzard out of the water... I switched cells and BOOM, a 71mph Blizzard came
out of the shell... it was crazy.
It was really interesting, since I thought the cells were not the issue because I measured them a few times and they were at peak charge, holding charge...
I have to say they were not pre-heated, but neither were the other packs that worked.
John, try pre-heating the cells to 110F (43 Celsius) or so.
Another thing that I noticed, that will not affect you while the boat is not eating up amps, is the length of your wires... do yourself a favor and put some extra caps on your ESC, wires that long WILL destroy your ESC.
As a foot note, you may wanna leave a bit bigger gap between the drive dog and the strut... just to avoid friction under stress.:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::Comment
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Apples just a thought, with that much power on board it should go hard. If the sponsons are that far out it would still rip but handle like a bag of *!***!***!***!** and jump everywhere so to speak. Looking at one of the pics with your wiring in them i am a bit concerned at how you soldered your joints. I solder both wires to one 6mm plug by soldering the wires together 5mm back from end of longest wire then solder the 5mm extra length into the 6mm plug. How are you wiring your packs? The + of one pack into the negative of the other then the remaining + &- into the ESC, there should be no more conectors than running 1p. A bad soldered joint will cause so much resistance that the power avalable can be up to half of what it should be. Your motor and esc will not be hot but how about those joints? Even air bubbles can cause you resistance problems. Just an ideaAttached FilesComment
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hey guys.. just got back from the lake,.... and well after some testing i have come to these conclusions......
1/ that new hyperion E-meter is sweet, my motor rpm was measured @ 27,750, so motor is labled correct.
2/ After a run on my batts charged at 1 amp ( not 1c) the best i could do was about 30kph, but now that i have the ability to charge up to 6 amps, ( not reccomended) and i charge 2 newer packs at 4amps the boat acually came alive ( a bit) about 60 -65 ks max.
3/ my packs are being pushed way to hard with a boat this heavy and will probably need to go to 30c - 35c packs
4/ when the boat was at it's top speed ( 65kph) or so it handled like a dog.. bouncing around hooking, possibly the boom issue.
5/ i will be sending it SA to get it looked at by a expert in Electronics ( and a Ea &Eb rigger champ) and he will sort out some wiring issues. (extra capacitors)
have been using poly rc packs up till now, are their 30c packs going to be good enough?
BTW the wiring in it was done by Randy so he could run 2 4s packs in paralell not 2 2s packs in series. my soldering in aways pretty good i am pretty anal about that stuff.returning to boats after a big breakComment
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hey guys.. just got back from the lake,.... and well after some testing i have come to these conclusions......
1/ that new hyperion E-meter is sweet, my motor rpm was measured @ 27,750, so motor is labled correct.
2/ After a run on my batts charged at 1 amp ( not 1c) the best i could do was about 30kph, but now that i have the ability to charge up to 6 amps, ( not reccomended) and i charge 2 newer packs at 4amps the boat acually came alive ( a bit) about 60 -65 ks max.
3/ my packs are being pushed way to hard with a boat this heavy and will probably need to go to 30c - 35c packs
4/ when the boat was at it's top speed ( 65kph) or so it handled like a dog.. bouncing around hooking, possibly the boom issue.
5/ i will be sending it SA to get it looked at by a expert in Electronics ( and a Ea &Eb rigger champ) and he will sort out some wiring issues. (extra capacitors)
have been using poly rc packs up till now, are their 30c packs going to be good enough?
BTW the wiring in it was done by Randy so he could run 2 4s packs in paralell not 2 2s packs in series. my soldering in aways pretty good i am pretty anal about that stuff.
What were the changes you made to the boat this time apart from the way you charged your batteries?
There is a lot of speed to be gained by using good batteries. I gained at least 10kph an hour in all my boats just by changing from 20C to 30C of another brand.
You have gained 15kph this weekend and that is a good startSeveral boats in various stages of destructionComment
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I striped the boat down over the week, and re-asemlbed everything take more core to try a get the sponsons alighn,
i added some aluminimum plates to the inside of the tub to stop the bolts from pulling through the carbon fibre,
I used the biggest prop i had and re- sharpened it, ( havent got the lifter prop yet)
other than that just the ESC timing to low and charging batts at 4amps.returning to boats after a big breakComment
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