how many mAh do your batteries have John?
Motor Trouble?
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John,
are there any mates that can lend you some 30-35c packs?
I think you have a battery problem after hearing the last bit
of info you posted... I had some problems with my PolyRc as well
and I had the same symptoms.:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::Comment
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You still have a problem and a larger C value will not cure the issue. Your batteries, motor and ESC are still suspect with the speeds you are obtaining. Have you tried a different motor?
DouggieComment
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here is the wash up so far... maybe this should go into the Boat Building thread.
this has come straight from my new boat builder that is trying to sort out my problems
Hiya John
of course,, re the BBY CF rigger
Hmm, where to start..the front seems appropriate
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Boom tube at front of tub was a definite chance for water ingress.
Boom tube at front was set at 4' left to right..ergo right boom higher from desk than left.
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Have already adjusted both to sit level, and slightly lower to give a slightly higher angle of attack on the sponsons,, helps get it on plane when at lower speeds.. and helps getair under tub to keep all raised off water.
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water cooling on engine.. leaked under pressure.
At speed these blighters can have heaps pressure without trying to hard.
put in 8psi and she bled lots.
Have removed and reseated. now 70psi and no dribbles.
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Strut is round bottom..will file a flat to help ride and raise rear from water.
Good riggers ride on sponson trailing edge and prop.. round struts allow for rear to plough through water.. flat bottom adds a ride surface to support weight at rear.
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I was going to dot point these things but looking at my already 2 pages of scribbled notes decided .. nah.
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Engine mount...flimsy.. not suited to 3KW power output potential from neu 1500 series,..will make a stron replacement.
his effort to stop the motor from torque rolling is pitifull ( strap around rear)
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Engine mount ply former in hull..holds engine by 2x4/32 blind nuts CA'd to deck.. former wasnt covered is epoxy.resin.. has been wet, and is now soft and rotting.
Decided to replace.. pried a corner and the bloody thing pulled clear of the deck.
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CA and epoxy dont make good bedfellows.
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entire boat held together by CA with dry accelerator
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Checked shaft through hull floor for integrity.. have a pic that shows all glue around shaft peeled back.. by my fingernail, no less.
Not secure !.
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Boom extension arms.. are in fact a matched pair... held together when drilled.
Rear boom arm connection to hull needs more security.
Have drilled aluminium plates 6/32 for ss sockethead bolts x 3/4"
Will drill a few dozen little holes in plates,and then epoxy to hull interior to offer better strength.
Bolts will protrude to outside by approx 12mm... so you can attach arms with 2x nylock nuts per side.. bolts can be removed if needed.. damage etc..
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Rudder push rod is 2-56 size.. a bit small but ok if supported, which it aint.
Will put this through a small tube attached a pedestal support so the rod doesnt bend when the servo turns the boat right.. else the rod bends and rudder barely moves at all.. dodgey !
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external safety loop... will secure through hull so it wont move or allow water in.
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ESC connectors to battery..very substandard soldering. First thing I did was remove and replace correctly.
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Batteries.. had identical F connectors for both polarities.
I use F for+ve and M for -ve..makes for easier swap of packs and allows for other configs without need for patch leads.
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Batts are correct C and capacity for this application. Good choice.
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1521/1.5D seems good for this applet.
water testing will determine if is excellent, or just good...
ESC.. good choice for this setup at either 4 or 6S.
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what radio do you use?
err..why the failsafe.. your radio not featured?
What batt do you use for Rx ?
lipo or nicad or what ?
post to me with the charge lead.
Boat bits that need to be made and installed....
-new engine mount
-new engine mount to be epoxied onto deck
-needs shaft to be epoxied onto deck.
-needs boom arm stay supports to be epoxied to deck walls
-needs platform tube for rudder rod epoxied to deck
-front boom needs to be epoxied into position between boom arms,else it wanders and will break boom arms by twisting under load/stress ( corners)
-will run epoxy around all deck seam joints to ensure integrity.
-will wire Rx and main batt with common earth..means the safety loop will activate Rx and ESC same time.. no need for the on/off switch on the Rx as the safety loop does the lot.
means can take assembled boat to lake, plug in safety plug, and all is ready to burn some electrons..
send me the Rx battery
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-Hull is flimsy/flexible.
I can induce a 1.5+" twist by hand when I grab either end of the tub.
I will place 2x rails through the tub internal to strengthen it all up.
Will place so batts can be outside, and motor/esc inside.
end of all this, I will need to return assembled without sponsons.. ergo all boom tubes insitu with boom arms etc.
that's enough for now, John.
It is after all only day one ( the first 6 hrs of this project in fact )
Dont stress, she'll be right.
almost sorted... wont be long now till i start tearing it up.....returning to boats after a big breakComment
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Pity to hear...
Just as a note, external failsafes are a good idea, it is my experience that the failsafe on the Rx is not completely reliable (specially if wet for some reason).:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::Comment
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