Oh dear, oh dear.
Motor Trouble?
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Gee John a book of problems below. You know this was a proto type the first one built. I only drove once sence you were in a rush. I did the best I could I have been sick for the last 5 months. I just had a testicle removed last tuesday to get rid iof the problems I had. I have been on pain killers for that whole time.
I offered to pay for the return of the boat and fix it for free this is un called for I am offened.
here is the wash up so far... maybe this should go into the Boat Building thread.
this has come straight from my new boat builder that is trying to sort out my problems
What is his name and address?
Hiya John
of course,, re the BBY CF rigger
Hmm, where to start..the front seems appropriate
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Boom tube at front of tub was a definite chance for water ingress.
Boom tube at front was set at 4' left to right..ergo right boom higher from desk than left.
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Have already adjusted both to sit level, and slightly lower to give a slightly higher angle of attack on the sponsons,, helps get it on plane when at lower speeds.. and helps getair under tub to keep all raised off water.
You were suppost to do this not my faulght
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water cooling on engine.. leaked under pressure.
At speed these blighters can have heaps pressure without trying to hard.
put in 8psi and she bled lots.
Have removed and reseated. now 70psi and no dribbles.
You installed this not my faulght
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Strut is round bottom..will file a flat to help ride and raise rear from water.
Good riggers ride on sponson trailing edge and prop.. round struts allow for rear to plough through water.. flat bottom adds a ride surface to support weight at rear.
My design His opinion I use rid pads if needed did not run the boat enough to know if it was needed. I have been thinking aboutmaking some wing design sponsonetts.
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I was going to dot point these things but looking at my already 2 pages of scribbled notes decided .. nah.
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Engine mount...flimsy.. not suited to 3KW power output potential from neu 1500 series,..will make a stron Miss spelled but I can not spell either replacement.
Bull, I have ran that type of mount 100MPH But I could have bought a CNC mount and charged you another $75 bucks
his effort to stop the motor from torque rolling is pitifull ( strap around rear)
It is for up and down movement only does the job.
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Engine mount ply former in hull..holds engine by 2x4/32 blind nuts CA'd to deck.. former wasnt covered is epoxy.resin.. has been wet, and is now soft and rotting.
Decided to replace.. pried a corner and the bloody thing pulled clear of the deck.
I do not build a RTR boat for racing, a A RTR is what I do. If you need to seal the wood inside the boat you should do it. Not a big deal.
CA and epoxy dont make good bedfellows.
They do work and I only used a little in the build I prefer epoxy on epoxy
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entire boat held together by CA with dry accelerator
That is a LIE The seams were put together with the resin thet the boat was made of.
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Checked shaft through hull floor for integrity.. have a pic that shows all glue around shaft peeled back.. by my fingernail, no less.
Not secure !.
I used eopxy from Great Planes for that! Dam this letter is long I have been at it for a hour now
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Boom extension arms.. are in fact a matched pair... held together when drilled.
Rear boom arm connection to hull needs more security.
So I did do something right
Have drilled aluminium plates 6/32 for ss sockethead bolts x 3/4"
Will drill a few dozen little holes in plates,and then epoxy to hull interior to offer better strength.
It is gona look like *!***!***!***!**
Bolts will protrude to outside by approx 12mm... so you can attach arms with 2x nylock nuts per side.. bolts can be removed if needed.. damage etc..
I will be interested to see his Idea!
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Rudder push rod is 2-56 size.. a bit small but ok if supported, which it aint.
Will put this through a small tube attached a pedestal support so the rod doesnt bend when the servo turns the boat right.. else the rod bends and rudder barely moves at all.. dodgey !
Yes I should have done that , I did on Paddys sorry but not a big deal
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external safety loop... will secure through hull so it wont move or allow water in.
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ESC connectors to battery..very substandard soldering. First thing I did was remove and replace correctly.
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Ya free connectors and free solder, look a gift hores in the mouth.
Batteries.. had identical F connectors for both polarities.
I use F for+ve and M for -ve..makes for easier swap of packs and allows for other configs without need for patch leads.
I have seen the Germans shorting out batteries with hot connectors sticking out I do not like that best I could do with the free stuff I gave you.
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Batts are correct C and capacity for this application. Good choice.
Must have bought them from him
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1521/1.5D seems good for this applet.
water testing will determine if is excellent, or just good...
ESC.. good choice for this setup at either 4 or 6S.
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what radio do you use?
err..why the failsafe.. your radio not featured?
What batt do you use for Rx ?
lipo or nicad or what ?
post to me with the charge lead.
Boat bits that need to be made and installed....
-new engine mount
-new engine mount to be epoxied onto deck
-needs shaft to be epoxied onto deck.
-needs boom arm stay supports to be epoxied to deck walls
-needs platform tube for rudder rod epoxied to deck
-front boom needs to be epoxied into position between boom arms,else it wanders and will break boom arms by twisting under load/stress ( corners)
Good Idea wish I had thought about it. But if I had done this and sent you a boat that was assembled it would have cost you twice as much for the shipping possably more.
-will run epoxy around all deck seam joints to ensure integrity.
Ya I am so uncompident, Who ias this yo yo?
-will wire Rx and main batt with common earth..means the safety loop will activate Rx and ESC same time.. no need for the on/off switch on the Rx as the safety loop does the lot.
means can take assembled boat to lake, plug in safety plug, and all is ready to burn some electrons..
send me the Rx battery
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-Hull is flimsy/flexible.
Not when the hatch is taped down
I can induce a 1.5+" twist by hand when I grab either end of the tub.
I will place 2x rails through the tub internal to strengthen it all up.
Will place so batts can be outside, and motor/esc inside.
What???
end of all this, I will need to return assembled without sponsons.. ergo all boom tubes insitu with boom arms etc.
that's enough for now, John.
Way too much
It is after all only day one ( the first 6 hrs of this project in fact )
Dont stress, she'll be right.
Please do not put me threw more of this.
almost sorted... wont be long now till i start tearing it up.....Comment
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Sorry dude this should not be hear. I am sudisdal (SP), Wish I had the nerve. Ya blokes keep pushing me and I am going to blow another fuse. This is my life, my business, my work. I really try to do good things. NO KIDDING !
I can not win any way. I am not gona get any sleep this night. I take this to hart. and I am old school it is a sawed off 12 ga. 00 buckComment
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Let's all come down a bit, maybe think a little before pushing the "Post Reply" button...
Obviously there is a little heat here but let's not start saying things to make it worst,
this is not meant to anyone in particular.:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::Comment
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