Does anyone have any details about this cooling plate and the "liquid plastic" used to waterproof the HiModel ESC?
Peter and I use Plasti-Dip, Steve sells it here on his site but I see he is out of it right now, we buy the product locally here from Home Hardware and it comes in various colors. When using it though paint it on with a brush, it will take a couple coats to seal all the parts.
I use Peters cooling plates on my Himodel 200's and have to agree they are one of best.
Ken
DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat
I havent seen this thread for a while but now its back I thought I would update you on my luck with it on 8s, a couple of months ago I got all my electronics wet which was no problem for the ESC or RX as I waterproofed those myself but foolishly I trusted the MFGs conformal coating on the UBEC, to avoid that being the end to my day I removed the UBEC put the red wire back in the HiModel's lead and carried on running, I have now had about a dozen runs on 8s using its internal BEC and no longer plan on replacing the UBEC.
I havent seen this thread for a while but now its back I thought I would update you on my luck with it on 8s, a couple of months ago I got all my electronics wet which was no problem for the ESC or RX as I waterproofed those myself but foolishly I trusted the MFGs conformal coating on the UBEC, to avoid that being the end to my day I removed the UBEC put the red wire back in the HiModel's lead and carried on running, I have now had about a dozen runs on 8s using its internal BEC and no longer plan on replacing the UBEC.
Truly amazing when the fets are rated for 30Vdc ?? or at least someone said they were FDD8896 which have a 30Vdc limit...
I havent seen this thread for a while but now its back I thought I would update you on my luck with it on 8s, a couple of months ago I got all my electronics wet which was no problem for the ESC or RX as I waterproofed those myself but foolishly I trusted the MFGs conformal coating on the UBEC, to avoid that being the end to my day I removed the UBEC put the red wire back in the HiModel's lead and carried on running, I have now had about a dozen runs on 8s using its internal BEC and no longer plan on replacing the UBEC.
I've said it before somewhere (can't remember which thread) that todays ESCs use a voltage switching circuit for the internal BEC, as opposed to the old linear regulator circuits of a few years ago. They don't create anywhere near the heat being over 90% efficieni. Whereas the old regulator circuits were only 60%-70% efficient at best. They just got too hot with anything over 4s.
The Hi Model should have no problem dropping 8s voltage down to 5V.
I always use the internal BEC in all mine with confidence. Although I have never tried an 8s setup. Only up to 6s.
Insaniac
The plates I make are 38mm X 35mm but you must make sure that they don't touch the blobs of solder on the three motor wires. They are extremely close.
Steve sells this one but note... it's on a 7s version where the motor wires are soldered on the rear board. But it should be fine on the 8s as long as it can't touch the wires. I also chamfer off the edge of the plate to give a bit more clearance & use a dab of epoxy on the corners of the plate so it can't move.
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