HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

[eboat]

I bought 2 of these esc's and have run them on anything from 2S2P 4S2P and 6S2P and have never had a problem with them
They still have the factory wires that came on them
I took mine apart and also painted on the DP 270 to waterproof them
It does not have to be thick just a complete layer over everything so no water can ever touch any of the boards
One I just put the original cooling plate back on with 2 water lines and the other I put a larger heat sink that has a fan and have never put the fan on and it seem to work fine (just takes a little more room)

[FastVee]

eboat, you coated the fets too? -I thought that the top of the fets should be in direct contact with cooling plate? (and thermal grease)

[domwilson]

Did you get bullet connectors? I would recommend 6 mm ones.

[FastVee]

I ordered the 5.5mm ones that Steven sells. (wanted 5.5 cause my new lipos come with 5.5).

5.5 should be good, i belive they are rated around 200A.

[domwilson]

That should be ok. You don't want to draw the full rating of the ESC.

[FastVee]

I must keep that in mind... 70% max.

Now that Ken would reply on his delta thread I could calculate with the eagletree (well, he could) Amp draw on different props. -Since he has the same esc,motor and hull.

[FastVee]

Do you have that 4/8 one? if so, do you use the internal bec?

[eboat]

eboat, you coated the fets too? -I thought that the top of the fets should be in direct contact with cooling plate? (and thermal grease)

I cleaned them off with sand paper before I put the cooling plates on them

[FastVee]

cool, how much is there to sand on fets (so I wont sand it too much) -and what grit paper should I use?

I have never done anything like this b4

Would it be best to lay sandpaper on table and move esc on it rather than sanding it by hand? (so all of the fets would be the same height)

[ozzie-crawl]

i usally use about 400 grit on a block of wood, just sand enough to take the conformal coating of the top of the fets and make them flat, you will see when sanding if there is any really low or high spots, just take your time and it should be okay

[ED66677]

and the good thing of sanding the top of FET's is that they all end up at the same level insuring a perfect contact with the cooling plate.

[eboat]

I think you have your answer now
Just remember when you are putting the DP 270 on that you will have to do this so just try not to have lots left on the tops to sand off
After you have gooped up your esc just lay it flat with the fets up and the DP 270 will seep off the top anyway and leave a nice layer

[FastVee]

Yes, I have something to work with now

But my friend has one problem...He ordered standard loctite epoxy and is thinking of pouring it in. -but it could be conductive or not...50/50

He also has some electronic proofing spray(some kind of lacker)

"for low and high voltage use protects against moisture and is not conductive"

, and we are thinking of spraying the esc with that stuff.

It would leave a nice thin layer on esc, and cause it is spray, it would be easy to spray everywhere.

So has any 1 used spray to waterproof electronics?


Pate

[ED66677]

I was working in the Conformal Coating business since few years... what brand/ref is this spray? there are many, made of different material, some are very good some are not good enough for our application, the best are polyurethane based material, silicon based are not bad too.
Spraying is not an issue, wear a mask when you do it, you don't want to have coating on top of FET's for heat exchange purpose, once sprayed, sandpaper the FET's top as mentionned earlier!

[FastVee]

It is quality stuff, industrial grade.

Brand is WURTH, may not be that known out there, but locally it is the best brand there is.(usually ). They make bolts,cleaners,paint...pretty much everything.

Matti1983 promised to ad more info here later.