Dynamite marine grease. Last night I wiped it off and tried white lithium grease. I can reverse back to the marine grease and fill the entire tube with it. I haven't been able to sense how the boat actually handles, due to my problems, but if needed I can add trim tabs at a later point. As to throttle, I am squeezing the trigger fully, and I do not think I am getting near full speed at all. My only water test, with "pedal to the metal" I got probably 10-12 MPH and the boat not even starting to go on a plane.
Delta Force 33 won't get up on plane
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When you bent your tube, did you anneal it first, then reharden it after you bent it?
If not you could have a tight spot in the tube. This is probably why you are getting a hot spot in the tube when you run it.
Your motor is a 4D wend, Timing should be set at 0 to 5 degrees.
LarryPast NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & WetComment
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I did bend it by hand. You must be absolutely right... is there a solution if indeed this is my problem? Could I use the .150 flex cable with teflon, or do I need to replace the tube? That would be quite hard, if possible at all, since the tube is epoxied to the back of the hull. And thank you for the timing advice!Last edited by Nick1979; 11-18-2020, 06:05 PM.Comment
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Guys, the problem is not binding in the stuffing tube. He is getting 12 mph out of a 55 mph setup, if it was binding that much there would be a terrible noise and the glue holding the tube in would melt. The issue is in the transmitter or ESC, some setting is wrong, or the ESC isn?t working right. What transmitter is he using?
BTW, I have never annealed a brass stuffing tube in my life, and I?ve built a great many FE boats over 35 years. It simply isn?t necessary with K&N tubing if you go slow and use your fingers. It just takes patience - but a lot less time than annealing the tube, bending it, then hardening it again. And a lubed stuffing tube run out of the water will get hot even at low revs.
Do not use a 0.150? flex on that setup, it will break. There is zero wrong with a 3/16? cable, I?ve run over 100 mph with that setup with no problems. Grease isn?t required either although it works fine. I?ve used 70W synthetic gear oil for decades and no one considers my race boats slow, unreliable or wet inside.
.Last edited by Fluid; 11-18-2020, 07:20 PM.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
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Luckily, I live not far from OSE store in MA, and if I can't figure out what's wrong I can bring it over and they'll take a look. I borrowed the transmitter/receiver that came with my Aquaholic V2 boat:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...en_us_products
I'll try the boat tomorrow on the water and report after I tweaked the ESC settings. The two issues I have do not seem to be related.Last edited by Nick1979; 11-18-2020, 09:37 PM.Comment
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Here's the update. I got up to speed! The helpful OSE guys suggested the somehow the reverse (reduced rate speed) is the problem - I am not sure how I fixed it, but I kept trying messing with the ESC settings. The grinding noise that comes from the flex shaft and tubing is still there. Everything is smooth - shaft to collet is perfectly aligned, etc. I am noticing on dry revs that the most heat is generated in the stinger. I gave up on the idea of using .150 flex shaft with a teflon liner, since it was suggested to me that this cable is not strong enough and might break. At the end of my water test, I lost the propeller in the water and had to rescue the boat. Good thing I had my rescue rig with me. Another water test later today. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.Comment
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