Delta Force 33 won't get up on plane

[jester_s1]

The problem turned out to be the dummy who set up the boat. He forgot to calibrate the ESC to the transmitter, then ran the boat and got on here to ask why it didn't work. Thanks to all who helped.

[rol243]

Don,t forget to charge the battery too.

[stadiumyamaha]

We've all been that dummy.

[jester_s1]

I was able to take it out today. Holy crap, this thing is fast. It was pretty bouncy in slightly choppy water, so I think I'm going to need to flatten the hook that's on one side of the hull.

I went into thermal shutdown about a minute into running it. I have a single water pickup, so I guess I either need to go dual or load the motor less. The stuffing tube comes out right at the V, really as low as it can practically get. So I guess its' possible the 445 is just too big? Maybe back cutting it will do the trick. About 6-7 minutes after it shut down, I blew in the cooling line and felt the water temp was on the cool side of bath water. So maybe 120 degrees or so.


So is backcutting the way to go, or is there a better first thing to try?

[jester_s1]

I'm attaching some pics of my boat. I included a pic of the prop gap and would like your thoughts on if it's enough. The is a well used .187 flex cable, so if there is an initial shortening or break in period it's well past that. I did the run mentioned above with the strut level and trim tabs level with a bit of down in the right one to counteract the prop torque. The boat ran pretty flat, wetter probably than it should for the best speed.

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[jester_s1]

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[TRUCKPULL]

The gap between the drive dog and the strut should be a minimum ,- diameter of the cable per foot of length.

3/16" cable one foot long = a 3/16" minimum gap.

Larry

[rol243]

more the battery back and re test in water.

[stadiumyamaha]

Man, your running such a mild setup that it would be hard to adjust the boat to overheat.
You have either a battery, esc or motor problem.
What esc and batteries do you have and what’s the condition of the batts?

[rol243]

you shouldn,t have any worries swinging the 445 prop with this 1650 kv motor running on 4s, so why the thermal shut down within 1 minute of running ? what brand and size esc is in this boat ?

[jester_s1]

It's a Turnigy 180A. The watercooling makes a loop through it, so it doesn't look the same as the current one on HK's website. The motor is a Feigo 580 8 turn. Batteries are Gens Ace 2s 5000 about 2 years old. I run them in my trucks too, so they probably have about 30 cycles on them. Do tired batteries cause more heat somehow?

I did check that I had good water flow coming from the outlet. It's a rudder pickup setup, so I'd think it's pretty reliable.


How much drag is acceptable in the flex cable? Mine turns with a little bit of resistance, as in if I spin it by hand it will stop instantly as if the grease inside is making it sticky. But it doesn't feel rough or binding anywhere.

[Norwest]

I'd check the timing and also soldering of connectors!

[zooma]

With those older Gens Ace batts, your ESC might be going into low voltage cutoff. These boats should draw over 80 amps. I use 70C batts.

[Peter A]

It's a Turnigy 180A. The watercooling makes a loop through it, so it doesn't look the same as the current one on HK's website. The motor is a Feigo 580 8 turn. Batteries are Gens Ace 2s 5000 about 2 years old. I run them in my trucks too, so they probably have about 30 cycles on them. Do tired batteries cause more heat somehow?

I did check that I had good water flow coming from the outlet. It's a rudder pickup setup, so I'd think it's pretty reliable.


How much drag is acceptable in the flex cable? Mine turns with a little bit of resistance, as in if I spin it by hand it will stop instantly as if the grease inside is making it sticky. But it doesn't feel rough or binding anywhere.

Sounds like you may have a V1 or V2 T180, which is good. More pics needed though chap so that you can get some better help. Pics of inside and out.

[jester_s1]

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This is the interior layout of my boat. It had Deans connectors on it when I got it, so I upgraded to 6mm OSE connectors. In case it's not clear, the cooling goes to the ESC, then the motor. I used all medium diameter tubing, and there are no kinks. The cooling water exiting the hull was squirting out several inches when I made a part throttle pass just to check it.

Norwest- Could bad solder joints on the battery connectors cause overheating? I've heard of bad joints on the motor connectors doing that because they'll mess up the timing, but all I've ever heard of bad battery connections doing is making the connectors get hot. Or do you mean that overheating connectors could cause a low voltage condition? I did find one bad solder joint on a battery that I wasn't using in the test run but I did solder it at the same time I soldered the others. I'm going through them all now and making sure they are good.

Zooma- The boat was doing the low RPM get back to shore response to the throttle for a couple of minutes, then when I tried it on the bench it went to full throttle as normal. I assumed that meant heat, since it had had time to cool. Wouldn't a low voltage cutoff only reduce the power when the batteries show a problem under load and then recover immediately when they come back up? Also, I use these batteries in my Associated SC10, which is a fairly demanding power system too. I've never had a voltage drop in that application.