Eagle Tree

[oscarel]

I'd go out for a beer! Where in OK are you located Craig? I'm just north of DFW in McKinney. And the mono looks good.

[CraigP]

I'm in a Tulsa, we used to have our company meeting in an office in Legacy Park, pretty close to McKinney. Our Web Developer lives in McKinney! We now meet in Midland, where our operations are located. Are you in Telcomm? I thought I saw that on your bio...

[oscarel]

I'm in a Tulsa, we used to have our company meeting in an office in Legacy Park, pretty close to McKinney. Our Web Developer lives in McKinney! We now meet in Midland, where our operations are located. Are you in Telcomm? I thought I saw that on your bio...

I am in telecom. I did most of the phone conversions in Tulsa for sw bell in the 90s. I have some friends in Tulsa that run for sport. Im actually looking to head that way Saturday if they're going out.

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[CraigP]

Can I PM you?

[oscarel]

Can I PM you?

No :-)

[R2315]

Are you guys using this RPM sensor? https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...rpm-kit-brs-v2

[CraigP]

Yes, that's the BLDC sensor, good unit! Don't use the magnetic version, we spin the shaft too fast, they could come off to easily for my liking...

[R2315]

Got my ET in the mail today :) I'm looking to swap the 12 awg wires to 10 awg. Anyone done this successfully? Any tips? I don't want to cook my new unit any suggestions would be appreciated! And any idea where to get the clear heat shrink?

[CraigP]

You need a soldering iron with a big chisel point. Get the old wires off the ET first. I just cut the clear heat shrink off in a box in front of the four wires. I tinned the #10 wire first, making sure I got 100% solder penetration in the wire weave. I put solder on the ET pad, flow it and bring the #10 wire onto it. You need gloves! It gets hot!! You do need to watch how much heating time you put on the PCB. On a scale of 1-10, this soldering project is an 8 in difficulty, especially the two #10 ground wires. You need your A game for this one... if you have an inadequate solder iron, then I don't recommend it. I have a Weller Digital 75W unit. The key is to use the large chisel point. You will never get it hot enough with a small point tip. Good luck and remember those gloves!

[R2315]

Thanks Craig! So my $20 40watt is not going to cut it.... I'll go shopping. Kester 60/40 good for this? Do you have any pics for reference? Thanks again!

[oscarel]

if youre looking to do the 300amp mod, best to leave the 12ga. itll be hard to get the extra wire soldered on.

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[R2315]

Good point oscarel, maybe I'll wait and do a few runs first. All my wire is 10awg with 6.5mm castles, I was just concerned the ET 12awg might bottle neck the current or create extra heat.

[CraigP]

Here's a pic of the 10 gauge wire on the ET. I wrapped the ET with Kapton tape, a specialty high voltage, high temperature tape used in electronic manufacturing. You can tell that it wasn't easy! It's soldered to my Cap Board. This is for my hydro, down right now for final paint. So note this hasn't been tested... I hope to run this weekend, maybe you should wait and I'll report if it still works.

Hey Oscar, glad you got home all right. Oscar came up to Tulsa to run his boats with some Tulsa guys he's known for years. He invited me to come run my DF29 Mono, it's first time in the water since I bought it used from a guy on this site. Oscar helped me work it out, and the little boat screams!

[CraigP]

Thanks Craig! So my $20 40watt is not going to cut it.... I'll go shopping. Kester 60/40 good for this? Do you have any pics for reference? Thanks again!

No, 60W minimum! The solder is fine. I have another ET to modify and I'm not looking forward to it! Was going to put it in the DF29, put its running pretty sweet. I'm thinking I'll leave it alone for now.

[oscarel]

Craig, yes we made it home safe. It was great meeting you and your wife. We'll have to get together agaon soon!

Ryan, also you want to make sure the ET works before modding, may void your warranty.

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