Eagle Tree

[R2315]

Hi all,

I'm looking into the Eagle Tree Elogger V4 150a. My question is I'm running a 2200kv Neu with a 180A Seaking on 4s in a 30" mono, do you think its safe to use the 150A version or am I pushing it?

Thanks,

[oscarel]

Time a run and use the estimated amp draw calculator https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.php

[CraigP]

It won't hurt it, just show a maxed out reading...

[oscarel]

How do you know how much amps he's pulling? A 180A seaking can take way more than what it's rated for.

[R2315]

Thanks, I wasn't sure how accurate that was but if it is close on a 5000mah pack using 20% (4000) over 150sec it puts me at 96amps. Thanks CraigP for the RMRC find!

[oscarel]

Just remember that's an average. If you did a lot of on and off you're going to have some larger spikes. What prop are you running?

[R2315]

usually m400 or x440 when I want a little more punch off the start. Hey saw that link to modding it to a 300amp, will it actually log that?

[R2315]

sorry M440

[oscarel]

yes it will. with that small of a prop you should be safe with 150 amp. most of our race boats that size we're using in the x445 range. and also more mah.

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[R2315]

Ya I'm worried worried about tearing up the .150 flex with the 445 so for now until I feel the need it will be the M440 for the most part. Thanks oscarel!

[R2315]

I'm just sport running right now so the Eagle Tree will give me the chance to experiment :)

[CraigP]

The currents spikes that I'm seeing on my ET on my hydro are prop jumps, you know, hitting small waves and jumping out of the water then hooking back up, happens very quickly. No hydro runs hooked up 100%, it would be running way too wet. From what I see, as I increase the prop size, these current spikes really jump up in magnitude. So the larger props pull much more momentary power hooking back up in the water. Not much you can do about the prop coming out of the water, but it seems the prop size needs consideration based on this. These current spikes are hard on the capacitors as well, creating lots of heat. So far, on my boat, it looks like a smaller prop spinning faster is easier on the electrical system. That's what I really like about this system! I don't go over the 150A level, so it's working good for me. I run about 90-100a hooked up with spikes to 130-140a.

[oscarel]

ive seen your posts, but not which boat you're running.. for the amp calc, if you make a run for say 60 secs (or shorter) wide open and then check what u put back into the lipos that would give a better estimate.

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[CraigP]

Yes, average amp draw, but not spikes! You have to data log to see that, either with an external unit like ET or use a ESC that has the feature. It's those spikes that probably give people some problems..

I haven't posted running pics of my boat, only some construction pics. I'm trying to get thru final paint. I'll try and find someone to take pics or get a vid on it. It's a DF Vortex34 with heavily modified sponsons. I've posted specs all over the place on the forum, so I'll skip that here.

[R2315]

Toysport Syncron 28" mono. I went ahead a pulled the trigger on one anyway from RMRC good deal at $39.99. I'm up north now with not so good weather so my next run will likely be at my local pond but I'll give that a shot and see what I get oscarel.. Thanks again guys!