Eagle Tree

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  • oscarel
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Dec 2009
    • 2127

    #31
    Originally posted by CraigP
    How can that be? There's more boat in the water with a mono, thus more friction. Achieving 60mph in a 30" mono has to take more power than similar speed and sized hydro. What you're saying defies the laws of physics. There's a reason a little knee outboard hydro can go as fast as an SK runabout.
    Monos run on the last 1" or so. I didn't say anything about them being the same speed.

    Comment

    • Tamelesstgr
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jun 2014
      • 1516

      #32
      I have the 150 amp EagleTree system, it is a valuable tool. I was running a leopard 4082 - 1450kv motor on 6s with a Turnigy 180 ESC and up to an M645 prop on a 32" Deep-V hull. The highest MAX amp draw I saw was 150-160 (during takeoff usually) and then the amps hovered around 125. My temp range for ESC was 115-125 degrees, motor temp range was 85-100 degrees. Best MPH on this heavy boat was 55.

      Here are some images of the data I captured

      My main dashboard when I download the logger
      NSR 32 Leopard 1450kv 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Gauges.JPG

      AMP chart, this helps to see your spikes
      NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Amps Chart.jpg

      AMPS, RPMS, Watts, Volts. This helps show me the effects different props have on the setup
      NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Multiples Chart.jpg

      RPM
      NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 RPM Chart.jpg

      Temp (Blue = Motor / Gray + ESC)
      NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Temp Chart.jpg
      NEVER SATISFIED RACING
      Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

      Comment

      • CraigP
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • May 2017
        • 1464

        #33
        No, you didn't, which was a failure on your part. If you're going to compare hull technology, then you need a central point of comparison. That's why I'm pushing back on you... FE stands for "fast electric", not "free energy".

        The same is true on the DF Vortex comments you made. You have no idea about the changes to hydrodynamic and aerodynamic forces Ive made, all huge components of a hydro's charactersitic. So you seem to shoot out statements fast, but have little contemplation behind the statements. You may have 25 years experience, but your statements are not reflecting that. To me, it comes across that you just don't like the hull. I saw the things the hull IS, not what it ISN'T. And I have the experience (longer than you) to fix it. Those sponsons came from teachings I got in the 80's and 90's from a guy named Ron Jones, the most prolific hydro designer/builder of all time. Not looking for your approval. I know Ron would smile, and he's the one I look up to!

        Comment

        • CraigP
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2017
          • 1464

          #34
          Originally posted by Tamelesstgr
          I have the 150 amp EagleTree system, it is a valuable tool. I was running a leopard 4082 - 1450kv motor on 6s with a Turnigy 180 ESC and up to an M645 prop on a 32" Deep-V hull. The highest MAX amp draw I saw was 150-160 (during takeoff usually) and then the amps hovered around 125. My temp range for ESC was 115-125 degrees, motor temp range was 85-100 degrees. Best MPH on this heavy boat was 55.

          Here are some images of the data I captured

          My main dashboard when I download the logger
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]153461[/ATTACH]

          AMP chart, this helps to see your spikes
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]153460[/ATTACH]

          AMPS, RPMS, Watts, Volts. This helps show me the effects different props have on the setup
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]153462[/ATTACH]

          RPM
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]153463[/ATTACH]

          Temp (Blue = Motor / Gray + ESC)
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]153464[/ATTACH]
          Excellent usage of the system! Shows it all, doesn't it? Allows you to learn, and make intelligent predictions on what prop changes will do! Thanks for posting... PS looks like my dashboard, it's good software!

          Comment

          • oscarel
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Dec 2009
            • 2127

            #35
            Originally posted by CraigP
            No, you didn't, which was a failure on your part. If you're going to compare hull technology, then you need a central point of comparison. That's why I'm pushing back on you... FE stands for "fast electric", not "free energy".

            The same is true on the DF Vortex comments you made. You have no idea about the changes to hydrodynamic and aerodynamic forces Ive made, all huge components of a hydro's charactersitic. So you seem to shoot out statements fast, but have little contemplation behind the statements. You may have 25 years experience, but your statements are not reflecting that. To me, it comes across that you just don't like the hull. I saw the things the hull IS, not what it ISN'T. And I have the experience (longer than you) to fix it. Those sponsons came from teachings I got in the 80's and 90's from a guy named Ron Jones, the most prolific hydro designer/builder of all time. Not looking for your approval. I know Ron would smile, and he's the one I look up to!
            Can you point me to where I made a comment about your boat?? And maybe take a chill pill or two...

            Comment

            • CraigP
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • May 2017
              • 1464

              #36
              Tiny pond, you drive good! What's your battery configuration? My boat has a little 3674 in it. I'm going to try that out first, and log how hot it gets... great video!

              Comment

              • CraigP
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • May 2017
                • 1464

                #37
                Originally posted by oscarel
                Can you point me to where I made a comment about your boat?? And maybe take a chill pill or two...
                Your right, it was somebody on another post, I apologize for that. I try a lot of new things, and frequently get attacked from others, especially members with many years experience. Although I haven't been in your club, that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sorry that frustration was focused at you, you didn't deserve that... I don't and will not race, so racers need to understand that their needs and experiences, as well as goals and priorities, are different from sport boaters.

                Comment

                • Mxkid261
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2015
                  • 734

                  #38
                  Originally posted by CraigP
                  Tiny pond, you drive good! What's your battery configuration? My boat has a little 3674 in it. I'm going to try that out first, and log how hot it gets... great video!
                  Ya it could be bigger haha, that's on my buddies land though so when I go out there to drink beer its hard NOT to bring a boat to play with even if his pond is a little small Lol. I was running two 3s 7200 SPC packs in series. Its a little more tricky with something faster!!

                  Comment

                  • Mxkid261
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2015
                    • 734

                    #39
                    On a side note, how are these wired? Just + and - to the speedo? I've been contemplating one of these and should just pony up and get one.

                    Comment

                    • CraigP
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • May 2017
                      • 1464

                      #40
                      There two sets of power leads:

                      1) +/- from the batteries. The black should go to the minus side of the battery pack and the red to the plus.
                      2) +/- to the ESC. The black goes to the minus of the ESC and the red to the plus.

                      Note: the two minus leads (black) are essentially just tied at the ET, forming a continuous run from the battery to the ESC. You need this on the ET so it can properly read the pack voltage. The red comes in from the battery and passes thru a metal conductor out to the power input lead of the ESC. This is NOT a current sense resistor. There really is no loss with this circuit. The metal conductor is surrounded by a non-contacting Hall effect device that senses the magnetic field eminating from the metal conductor. It's pretty slick!

                      Comment

                      • Tamelesstgr
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Jun 2014
                        • 1516

                        #41
                        I'm going t obe selling my last EagleTree setup soon I think, I switched over to GAS!
                        NEVER SATISFIED RACING
                        Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

                        Comment

                        • oscarel
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Dec 2009
                          • 2127

                          #42
                          Originally posted by CraigP
                          Your right, it was somebody on another post, I apologize for that. I try a lot of new things, and frequently get attacked from others, especially members with many years experience. Although I haven't been in your club, that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sorry that frustration was focused at you, you didn't deserve that... I don't and will not race, so racers need to understand that their needs and experiences, as well as goals and priorities, are different from sport boaters.
                          No worries. Take a sec before hitting the enter key. Most of us racers also sport boat so we know both sides of it. Pushing the limits when you have restraints can help a lot with those not doing it. Give us racers some credit too.

                          Comment

                          • CraigP
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • May 2017
                            • 1464

                            #43
                            Will do and again, I'll use more patience in the future... going to run the DF29 mono for the first time this weekend since picking it up from a guy on the forum. Have you seen that carbon mono for sale? Dang, it's such a sweeeet boat! The DF is really thin... I had the put some reinforcements in it down thru the vee. Here's a pic and if you see something, please let me know! I will take your advice constructively.

                            I made a plate from T6061-T6, 0.050" thick the mount the center battery and ESC, as well as reinforce the bottom. You can just make out the feet glassed to the bottom. I just put in a thru hull, dual water pickup and will cool ESC and motor on their own circuits. There's a T-180 ESC with added caps I put on. I got a Leopard 3674 1400kv motor in it to run 6s. Got a M440 to start... it's a .150 flex shaft running a liner. It came that way, thought I would run it that way. Thanks for looking and understanding..
                            Attached Files

                            Comment

                            • MadProps
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2017
                              • 236

                              #44
                              good job, wish I could buy you two a beer...

                              Comment

                              • CraigP
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • May 2017
                                • 1464

                                #45
                                You makin' me thirsty!

                                Comment

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