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I have the 150 amp EagleTree system, it is a valuable tool. I was running a leopard 4082 - 1450kv motor on 6s with a Turnigy 180 ESC and up to an M645 prop on a 32" Deep-V hull. The highest MAX amp draw I saw was 150-160 (during takeoff usually) and then the amps hovered around 125. My temp range for ESC was 115-125 degrees, motor temp range was 85-100 degrees. Best MPH on this heavy boat was 55.
Here are some images of the data I captured
My main dashboard when I download the logger
NSR 32 Leopard 1450kv 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Gauges.JPG
AMP chart, this helps to see your spikes
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Amps Chart.jpg
AMPS, RPMS, Watts, Volts. This helps show me the effects different props have on the setup
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Multiples Chart.jpg
RPM
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 RPM Chart.jpg
Temp (Blue = Motor / Gray + ESC)
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Temp Chart.jpgNEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6sComment
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No, you didn't, which was a failure on your part. If you're going to compare hull technology, then you need a central point of comparison. That's why I'm pushing back on you... FE stands for "fast electric", not "free energy".
The same is true on the DF Vortex comments you made. You have no idea about the changes to hydrodynamic and aerodynamic forces Ive made, all huge components of a hydro's charactersitic. So you seem to shoot out statements fast, but have little contemplation behind the statements. You may have 25 years experience, but your statements are not reflecting that. To me, it comes across that you just don't like the hull. I saw the things the hull IS, not what it ISN'T. And I have the experience (longer than you) to fix it. Those sponsons came from teachings I got in the 80's and 90's from a guy named Ron Jones, the most prolific hydro designer/builder of all time. Not looking for your approval. I know Ron would smile, and he's the one I look up to!Comment
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I have the 150 amp EagleTree system, it is a valuable tool. I was running a leopard 4082 - 1450kv motor on 6s with a Turnigy 180 ESC and up to an M645 prop on a 32" Deep-V hull. The highest MAX amp draw I saw was 150-160 (during takeoff usually) and then the amps hovered around 125. My temp range for ESC was 115-125 degrees, motor temp range was 85-100 degrees. Best MPH on this heavy boat was 55.
Here are some images of the data I captured
My main dashboard when I download the logger
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153461[/ATTACH]
AMP chart, this helps to see your spikes
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153460[/ATTACH]
AMPS, RPMS, Watts, Volts. This helps show me the effects different props have on the setup
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153462[/ATTACH]
RPM
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153463[/ATTACH]
Temp (Blue = Motor / Gray + ESC)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]153464[/ATTACH]Comment
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No, you didn't, which was a failure on your part. If you're going to compare hull technology, then you need a central point of comparison. That's why I'm pushing back on you... FE stands for "fast electric", not "free energy".
The same is true on the DF Vortex comments you made. You have no idea about the changes to hydrodynamic and aerodynamic forces Ive made, all huge components of a hydro's charactersitic. So you seem to shoot out statements fast, but have little contemplation behind the statements. You may have 25 years experience, but your statements are not reflecting that. To me, it comes across that you just don't like the hull. I saw the things the hull IS, not what it ISN'T. And I have the experience (longer than you) to fix it. Those sponsons came from teachings I got in the 80's and 90's from a guy named Ron Jones, the most prolific hydro designer/builder of all time. Not looking for your approval. I know Ron would smile, and he's the one I look up to!Comment
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Your right, it was somebody on another post, I apologize for that. I try a lot of new things, and frequently get attacked from others, especially members with many years experience. Although I haven't been in your club, that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sorry that frustration was focused at you, you didn't deserve that... I don't and will not race, so racers need to understand that their needs and experiences, as well as goals and priorities, are different from sport boaters.Comment
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There two sets of power leads:
1) +/- from the batteries. The black should go to the minus side of the battery pack and the red to the plus.
2) +/- to the ESC. The black goes to the minus of the ESC and the red to the plus.
Note: the two minus leads (black) are essentially just tied at the ET, forming a continuous run from the battery to the ESC. You need this on the ET so it can properly read the pack voltage. The red comes in from the battery and passes thru a metal conductor out to the power input lead of the ESC. This is NOT a current sense resistor. There really is no loss with this circuit. The metal conductor is surrounded by a non-contacting Hall effect device that senses the magnetic field eminating from the metal conductor. It's pretty slick!Comment
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I'm going t obe selling my last EagleTree setup soon I think, I switched over to GAS!NEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6sComment
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Your right, it was somebody on another post, I apologize for that. I try a lot of new things, and frequently get attacked from others, especially members with many years experience. Although I haven't been in your club, that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sorry that frustration was focused at you, you didn't deserve that... I don't and will not race, so racers need to understand that their needs and experiences, as well as goals and priorities, are different from sport boaters.Comment
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Will do and again, I'll use more patience in the future... going to run the DF29 mono for the first time this weekend since picking it up from a guy on the forum. Have you seen that carbon mono for sale? Dang, it's such a sweeeet boat! The DF is really thin... I had the put some reinforcements in it down thru the vee. Here's a pic and if you see something, please let me know! I will take your advice constructively.
I made a plate from T6061-T6, 0.050" thick the mount the center battery and ESC, as well as reinforce the bottom. You can just make out the feet glassed to the bottom. I just put in a thru hull, dual water pickup and will cool ESC and motor on their own circuits. There's a T-180 ESC with added caps I put on. I got a Leopard 3674 1400kv motor in it to run 6s. Got a M440 to start... it's a .150 flex shaft running a liner. It came that way, thought I would run it that way. Thanks for looking and understanding..Comment
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