questions about hk pursuit

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  • lenny
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2010
    • 4294

    #16
    Let me know what you are looking for and I will try to add a link too it.
    You should pick up a pool noodle or a piece of foam if you can for the hatch,
    And also to add in the boat if you want for the cells and things.

    Also what make and C rate are your 4s 5800mah packs ?

    What color boat are you thinking of getting ?
    Last edited by lenny; 11-12-2013, 11:12 AM.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

    Comment

    • lenny
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2010
      • 4294

      #17
      Hi,
      Please post some pictures and video's of you boat.
      Are you running 4s in parallel ?
      Also what connector are you using in the setup ?
      5.5 bullets are a very good way to go.

      Originally posted by mattmak
      I recently ordered a Pursuit from HobbyKing US warehouse. Very nice hull and running hardware, but the motor is junk. I ran the stock motor 2 or 3 times in the Pursuit, it smelled hot and funny, then it finally broke its the 4th run when I was testing it on my Stiletto. The Motor got very hot and finally the magnet came detached from rotor shaft. My other motors never get hot on either boat.

      Currently running the Turnigy 3665-2100KV and it does not get hot with a x440/3, and my prop work is weak so far on that one. The same motor only gets warm on my Stiletto. With a well done prop low 50s should be no problem with that motor. Although I think you'd be consuming more than 5000mAh in 4 mins (depending on water conditions).
      ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

      My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

      Comment

      • mattmak
        Junior Member
        • Feb 2013
        • 21

        #18
        Originally posted by lenny
        Hi,
        Please post some pictures and video's of you boat.
        Are you running 4s in parallel ?
        Also what connector are you using in the setup ?
        5.5 bullets are a very good way to go.
        A single 6500mAh 4s pack, run it for approx 4 mins. Connectors: 5.5mm on the batteries, still at 4mm on the motor (probably will go 5.5 on the motor soon).
        I might start my own thread for it if that's what people want. Already have taken pics and vids.

        Comment

        • rickwess
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2013
          • 777

          #19
          Originally posted by mattmak
          I might start my own thread for it if that's what people want. Already have taken pics and vids.
          Yes. Start up a new thread. I'd love to see the progress on your boat.

          Comment

          • pugman2
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 236

            #20
            i have turnigys right now havnt got the pursuit yet will have it soon . just tryining to plan things out . only experiance with electrics so far has been with my old sv27 which took a real beating put a lipo sheild on it and ran the crap outta it . never got it real hot motor or packs with x440 prop and 2cell 5500 twin packs turnigys also that was my first lipos . still have them got 2 of the 4cells that i talked about for the new boat when it comes

            Comment

            • lenny
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Sep 2010
              • 4294

              #21
              Need a C RATE on those 2s 5500 & 2s 5800 & 4s 5800 Turnigy packs ??

              C rate makes a big difference one how a setup works and temps.

              Originally posted by pugman2
              i have turnigys right now havnt got the pursuit yet will have it soon . just tryining to plan things out . only experiance with electrics so far has been with my old sv27 which took a real beating put a lipo sheild on it and ran the crap outta it . never got it real hot motor or packs with x440 prop and 2cell 5500 twin packs turnigys also that was my first lipos . still have them got 2 of the 4cells that i talked about for the new boat when it comes
              Last edited by lenny; 11-04-2013, 09:48 PM.
              ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

              My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

              Comment

              • lenny
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2010
                • 4294

                #22
                The 4mm connectors are your weak link in that setup,
                If you prop up the heat will show up on those 4mm connectors first.


                Originally posted by mattmak
                A single 6500mAh 4s pack, run it for approx 4 mins. Connectors: 5.5mm on the batteries, still at 4mm on the motor (probably will go 5.5 on the motor soon).
                I might start my own thread for it if that's what people want. Already have taken pics and vids.
                ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

                My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

                Comment

                • aerostar
                  Junior Member
                  • Nov 2013
                  • 15

                  #23
                  Great forum on the PURSUIT 32 and SUPERVEE 27! I'm new to this website/forum and own both and enjoy running them. Question about the PURSUIT, my driveline is trashed, the motor coupler and flex shaft have had it. Can't seem to find any replacement parts, any advise?? My measurements are the motor shaft is 5mm, the coupler output is .187", the flexshaft is .187/4.75mm diameter and 170mm long. The parts listed at this parts store specifically say they are only for the OSE version of the PURSUIT, and that is true since they are very different from mine! What would be the recommendations from the experts here?? I have all winter to rebuild, not afraid of mods/throwing parts at it before next spring! THANKS!!!!!

                  Comment

                  • tlandauer
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 5666

                    #24
                    It seems that you already have a .187 cable/shaft, ( I say this because OSE version and Kintec version were fitted with .150 cable---if I am not mistaken) otherwise your collet/coupler "output" would not have measured at .187".
                    Simple: get a .187 cable, the stub shaft is 3/16" , you need only to decide between .150 cable or .185 cable. You are already running the latter kind. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1190
                    At the moment it seems OSE is out of stock, you can check Kintecracing.com http://kintecracing.com/Flex_Cables.html
                    I always cut these cables to the length I need, use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and wear eye protection !
                    The reason OSE has specific cable is that OSE sold them cut at their length and I believe it is a .150 cable. Since yours is the .187 cable, I assume your stuffing tube DOESN"T have a silicone liner? Right?
                    Last edited by tlandauer; 11-11-2013, 04:20 PM.
                    Too many boats, not enough time...

                    Comment

                    • T.S.Davis
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Oct 2009
                      • 6220

                      #25
                      The best option is to buy the Hughey flex cable and cut it to fit. OSE sells those too I think. They're a bit more money but the quality is a bit better.

                      The Octura 5mmx.187 coupler isn't too bad either. Some were out of round but I think they got that glitch fixed.

                      I think OSE has another brand too but can't remember where they come from.
                      Noisy person

                      Comment

                      • aerostar
                        Junior Member
                        • Nov 2013
                        • 15

                        #26
                        THANKS for the info! I was not aware the flex cables could be cut, do you recommend solder at the cut? The stuffing tube DOES have a white liner, the flex cable is driving a solid shaft in the stinger. The ONLY THING holding the prop on is a chrome(?) bullet with a hex-keyed lock screw! Seems a bit light considering my other boats all have prop nuts.
                        Not sure of the history of this boat, it was a CRAIGSLIST item this summer. Some people "rescue" dogs and other small critters, I "rescue" RC boats!!! All of my boats are rescues, except for the early ones (MEGATECH H2O ELITE and a TRAXXAS VILLIAN IV).

                        Comment

                        • tlandauer
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 5666

                          #27
                          if you have a 9/32" brass stuffing tube, then it is correct that there is a liner, make sure the liner is in good shape, you can pull it out either with the stinger off the transom or with the motor out of way from inside. It is very important that you check the condition of the liner because when this thing begins to shed away inside, the cable windings "grab" the silicone and eventually friction increases and head builds up, I wish I can find the picture where the whole thing is torn and twisted, quite a sight! Those that run a .187 cable without the liner use 1/4" brass stuffing tube.
                          I don't solder the collet end of the cable, my alignment on all my boats are quite good that I never "injure" the cables when pushing them into the collets. Try turn clock wise while pushing it in. Also you bevel/chamfer the end after you cut it.
                          http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...x-Cable-solder
                          Ditch that bullet prop hex nut, you will lose a good prop in no time, get a good lock nut like this:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-8135
                          Too many boats, not enough time...

                          Comment

                          • lenny
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Sep 2010
                            • 4294

                            #28
                            So you have the two piece flex shaft,
                            If you have a strut.
                            Just take the one bolt & nut out that holds the strut on and loosen the motor coupler to the flex,
                            Than just pull the flex out of the tube at the transom.
                            The shaft will come out of the strut when you loosen the set screws on the prop dog and prop lock.

                            If you have a stinger than that is more of a PITA to do.

                            I have the strut setup on the new one I just got,
                            It is nice but a PITA to lube and check things over on the flex.

                            Hear some links to some info.
                            http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...tube-EXPLOSION
                            http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ded-Flex-Shaft
                            http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...haft-to-length


                            Originally posted by aerostar
                            THANKS for the info! I was not aware the flex cables could be cut, do you recommend solder at the cut? The stuffing tube DOES have a white liner, the flex cable is driving a solid shaft in the stinger. The ONLY THING holding the prop on is a chrome(?) bullet with a hex-keyed lock screw! Seems a bit light considering my other boats all have prop nuts.
                            Not sure of the history of this boat, it was a CRAIGSLIST item this summer. Some people "rescue" dogs and other small critters, I "rescue" RC boats!!! All of my boats are rescues, except for the early ones (MEGATECH H2O ELITE and a TRAXXAS VILLIAN IV).
                            ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

                            My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

                            Comment

                            • aerostar
                              Junior Member
                              • Nov 2013
                              • 15

                              #29
                              Lots of good info, THANKS! I did the checks mentioned and found everything in good shape. The drive coupler and flex shaft were damaged by massive slippage, the drive coupler is chewed up and the flex shaft is polished down smooth and has turned DARK BLUE!! The solid shaft inside the stinger has no threads whatsoever to install a nut on. I have seen on the OSE parts listings some flex shafts with a threaded solid shaft already attached, (looks just like what my SUPERVEE 27 has). This looks to be much easier to service and is threaded for a prop nut, is it possible to change to this type of driveline and retire the current 2 piece set-up?? Sorry for all the questions, you guys are the first I have run across that know exactly what is going on!!! I assume proper maintenance will help avoid some of the hassles I saw in the included links!!??

                              Comment

                              • lenny
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Sep 2010
                                • 4294

                                #30
                                Yes, You can upgrade it to the one piece flex shaft.
                                Hear are some links to what you are looking for.



                                http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-pursuit-cable
                                ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

                                My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

                                Comment

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