Brushless motor winding class

[T.S.Davis]

That is a 2Y wind Don. I just didn't show the other end. I'll wind it proper tonight.

It sure is easy to see what's happening with the cat wire. The Y isn't a whole lot different. Just what you do with the ends is different. I thought about doing a 1y but I figured it would be another useless motor.

I feel like I understand the mechanics of this process well enough. It's the subtle things that I need to learn and understand better. Sorta like the difference between understanding a sport hydro and recognizing little things that make a difference on the water. Nuances? Maybe that's the right word. I'll git er cuz I really want to know this.

That DDD YYY YD DDYD hieroglyphic bit of dialog I may print and read out loud. Sorta like kindergarten with me sometimes.

[donhuff]

I TOLD YOU TO USE THE CAT WIRE, It does make it easier to see whats going on with the wind!

Post a picture of the other end, so I can see if you've been paying attention, and know how to start and finish....please. Might save you some trouble.

I tried a 1 wind once. It wouldn't run. I think it was because no coil makes a complete loop around the teeth. It' s just a wire zag- zigging through the slots. (don't waste your time!) It would be over 3000kv anyway remember, reduce the turns by 1/2 and increase the kv by at least double.

Ya can't do a D and a Y together, but when your ready, I'll walk you through doing a 9DDD on the 2000, so you can see that it ends up, KV wise, being the same as a 3D @2000kv. Then an 8DDD should be about 250 rpm higher kv.

[T.S.Davis]

Too late Don. Ripped the cat5 wire out and wound it. I didn't pre-join the three bundles. I rubber banded each to the outside of the stator and joined them later

Came out 1660kv. We'll throw it in Tom's mono tomorrow. Should be a decent offshore motor or if you have boat that wants a lot of blade in the water.

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[ray schrauwen]

I’m back at my apt. aka The Shop. I can now take a gold can apart and dig up some cat cable and start playing.

I’ve looked at motor charts so long I almost memorized them. I got it way back that with higher kv there was less wire in there in general.

Let’s see if the stator comes out fairly easy...

[donhuff]

Well good it runs. I was afraid that you might start off wrong like it was a delta, but you got it right. Good job.

[donhuff]

I’m back at my apt. aka The Shop. I can now take a gold can apart and dig up some cat cable and start playing.

I’ve looked at motor charts so long I almost memorized them. I got it way back that with higher kv there was less wire in there in general.

Let’s see if the stator comes out fairly easy...

Well Ray, No I guess you did not get it! A high kv has the same amount of wire as a low kv. You change the strand count depending on how many turns your doing, so that the slots are always as full as possible. Hi kv will have shorter wires, but more of them.

[ray schrauwen]

Whoops! Back the start, the shorter wire makes sense. I was thinking maybe of brushed motors that were single strands.

I just opened a burnt Aveox I got from Fred S. long ago. That wire is about .75mm diameter and each lead coming out has 6 strands. It's a 1412 1.5Yand it is packed with wire.

[ray schrauwen]

I was quoted about $76 Cdn fora 10lb spool of 27 guage wire fairly local. There is 13% tax on that plus shipping. I better practice first.

[donhuff]

" I was thinking maybe of brushed motors that were single strands."

Well Ray, again the answer is NO.

IF, I were doing a brushed wind with a single strand, and doing 5 turns instead of 10 turns like it was to begin with. I would use a wire size that was 25% bigger in diameter, so that I would have the exact same amount of copper, flow, and armature fill. Providing there's enough room, and there should be by using half the turns.

[donhuff]

10 pounds!!!! that's a lot!

I buy it in 5 lb spools and it's getting hard to handle at that weight. And I just my 9th spool, so 10 lbs would last you a long time. And I pay $60 per spool so your source is pretty cheap.

[ray schrauwen]

All good to know. Thank you.

[T.S.Davis]

Don, I'm getting inquiries as to how to make subtle changes in RPM. Like a 2200 kv in a 2000 Dyno can.

[donhuff]

The way you do that is to wind two coils, on each leg, with the standard three turns. Then on the third coil, wind only two turns. That will usually increase it 2-300 kv.

The bad deal with doing that is that your leaving copper out where you could be filling it up, and accepting the lower kv.

Ya know, higher KV, does not equal higher horsepower! And a higher kv ALWAYS makes more heat. But I know, higher kv always SOUNDS faster. Use a stopwatch and find out whats really faster, around the buoys.

[T.S.Davis]

haha That makes perfect sense to me Don.

I would think that if you propped to a maximum temperature that you can live with on a 2000kv motor and then did the same with say a 2200 kv motor you should be faster with the 2000kv motor. That 3040kv motor I built makes all kinds of noise but it turns an itty bitty prop doing it.

[T.S.Davis]

I assume this is the case with all the manufacturers and sizes. One less or one more turn.

Makes me wonder on a given motor size what kv has the optimal copper content. We ran a 36mm 1950kv TP motor up to 305 degrees without a failure. The rotor was likely ruined at those temps so I pitched it but it never nuked. I wonder if maybe that particular rendition had the maximum amount of copper that stator could hold.

Not sure how we could ever figure that out without seeing them made first hand.

So the typical 2000kv Dyno is a 3D. If I leave out one turn on the third coil what does that make it? Still clearly struggling to get my brain to absorb this stuff.