Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

[RaceMechaniX]

Yes. If you are running Teflon liners and want max speed try ATF. You will have to re-oil every third run though. Klotz will last longer, but has more drag.

[srislash]

Man, these LMT 1950 motors pull some crazy power especially for being so small ...

Ran the hpr99 on 6s yesterday with only a 1715 (42mm) and my external sensor showed a max current of 401 amps and 8,400 Watts before violently crashing...





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Holy *!***!***!***!** Dmitry, you do need something stronger in the rudder department.

[dmitry100]

Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

Yea tell me about it. These rudders must not be intended for anything heavy duty... they bend like soda cans. I’ll see if Manuel wenny or nata2run has something better of the same size

Gonna try my ABC 1717 cut 42mm props...
Could only imagine how much more amps it will pull. Though this is only burst current which probably doesn’t mean much yet

[dmitry100]

Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

If you’re in need of some logging you should try the Unilog 2 ... it’s very featureful and has lots of support/comparability amongst all transmitters as well (For live telemetry like for spectrum xbus)... It’s reasonably priced compared to others I think. You can even buy any P1000 temp sensors for like a dollar or 2 from eBay to save $ instead of the $10 or 15 each they sell. They have 400 amp current sensor which I’ve seen others use to go over 600a

Don’t you have the eagle tree telemetry tho?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[srislash]

If you’re in need of some logging you should try the Unilog 2 ... it’s very featureful and has lots of support/comparability amongst all transmitters as well (For live telemetry like for spectrum xbus)... It’s reasonably priced compared to others I think. You can even buy any P1000 temp sensors for like a dollar or 2 from eBay to save $ instead of the $10 or 15 each they sell. They have 400 amp current sensor which I’ve seen others use to go over 600a

Don’t you have the eagle tree telemetry tho?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes EagleTree. I’m trying the magnetic ring amp pickup this time. Says it’ll read 300.

[srislash]

Dmitry what Kv are those little suckers?

[dmitry100]

Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

2508kv ... so about 73k unloaded. From what I can tell about 59k loaded before it flew out of the water

[srislash]

Man that makes a nice readout on that UniLog.

[dmitry100]

Yea plus it’s already compatible with major TX/Rx, so I’m thinking to pull the trigger on a Frsky qx7 or x9d stick transmitter. For the live telemetry from Unilog with 1.5km range and 9ms response time... which is great compared to everything out there at that price range. Plus the Frsky receivers are $20 each. It’d be nice to have some amp and temp readings for a change before/after a SAW pass. Plus I’ll be able to use it for drone racing if need be lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dmitry100]

Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

Tyler, you think this kind of a wedge blade would work for a SAW rudder? Versus the stock one ... I’m replacing it due to the bending issues I have... seems like super weak aluminum.

Its certainly a thinner wedge by a good bit and really sharp(er). But just worried it might affect handling

[RaceMechaniX]

That will work, but not that great. You want a pure wedge, having the flat section on the back half of the blade does nothing.

Also keep in mind it may be better to have the rudder bend than break your bracket. If you run a steel rudder blade be prepared to start breaking the mount. I would advise against. You are better off findind a source of 7075 rudder blades or ask a machine shop to make you some. I know Brian Neal had to make about 50 blades for his big cats and replaced the blades when they bent or broke. That’s just part of running those cats at high speed.

[dmitry100]

Would a thinner wedge like that technically increase the speed a tad bit? I've read 5mph+ more can be possible... with a similar knife blade.

[Lone-Wolf]

I had the exact same bending issues on my HPR99's rudder, same rudder and bracket as you. I would bend it back and could get away with it a few times, I had alot of trouble finding the stock replacements, if I still had the boat I would find a machinist and order a dozen of them at least! I do think these rudders are intentionally weak because of what Tyler mentioned above, to save the bracket and transom.

BTW Do you by chance have any video of your 99 running yet? I would be really interested in seeing it in motion, I had nothing but troubles with mine I swear it was possessed!

[Fluid]

This thread has been terribly jacked, but here goes. I watched a lot of 130+ passes from several cats at the LA SAWs in 2014, and it was clear they had rudders which were too small. Most would hook out terribly at the start of each pass, spinning around and taking a lot of effort to obtain a straight pass. All had true wedge shaped rudders but they were too short both IMO and in their results. It is only the rudder which supplies resistance to provide directional control on a SAW pass, and had they added an inch to the length they would have gone straighter and thus faster. Reducing drag is important, but so is control.


.

[dmitry100]

The knife blade appears to be made out of a very strong yet flexible metal... with that in mind... I think it would act as a good shock absorber on impact

But handling-wise would handling characteristics be similar to the stock wedge? That is... If I kept it slightly longer or same length.