Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

[TRUCKPULL]

Larry, So your point is that these Castle ESC are that much more sensitive to lipo voltage differences than others?

I'm just trying to sync up both controllers so that both motors more or less spin equally. Because as of right ... on the bench ... one motor would be spinning at 5-10k RPM and the other would would be barely moving or at a complete stop.

Dmitry

Not that Castle are more sensitive, I think that any two ESC's without being connected in parallel would give you the result in my scenario above (post #104).
I think that your problem is that the two ESC's are not setup or programed the same.

Are you using a Castel Link to program your ESC's?

Larry

[dmitry100]

Yea, I'm using the Castle link.

I tried connecting both controllers to 1 battery like Tyler suggested and it actually improved throttle sync when I changed the throttle type to Auto Calibration .

Calibration of throttle type "fixed endpoints" is what I'm having the issue with. No matter what I do I can't get it to save the endpoints.

I think I'll just ditch this futaba 4pls and get a stick transmitter or even a spektrum pistol one which I hear works without a pistix.. since all of my ESC's are all converted airplane ESC's anyway

[RaceMechaniX]

Try this, program each ESC with the Castle Link and set the throttle type to fixed end points. Make sure the timing, start power, current limiting, etc is all the same with both.
Remove your Pistix and directly connect the ESC Y adapter to your radio still with both red wires removed.
On you radio go to the "TH MODE" on MENU 2 and adjust the setting to 7:3. This changes the throttle neutral setting so you have 70% forward and 30% rearward. page 80 of the manual.
Set your main throttle sub trim to B100 and your main trim to B40. This moves the resting trigger point to essentially the same position as stick radio with the throttle down.
Connect the ESC's and test. You may need to adjust the main trim to a lower value like B45 or B50.
Using a 2S battery give full throttle and then check your data. If you still not see 100% power in the Castle data something else is wrong.

I use Futaba pistol radio's only and have many ICE200 controllers in boats with no pistix. Hopefully this works for you.

-Tyler

[dmitry100]

Thanks man, I'll try that. Appreciate it.

[dmitry100]

Tyler, that worked great, now without having to use the pistix.

FINALLY made the calibrations sync up on both ESC's and now both motors seem to respond to throttle the same. Though I did notice what you mentioned regarding each ESC being kind of different. Each motor would trade spinning on slight 5% throttle taps.

I had to max out the EndPoint settings in the Transmitter (to 120%) and increase the Trim to 50 -- only then did the ESC save the calibration when I fired up both ESC's with the trigger pulled in full throttle -- the ESC's would beep almost continuously with 3 beep bursts and then I would pull trigger in full reverse and then it would beep in the same manner until I released the trigger to neutral. Then I would pull the power on them.

In the Castle Link Settings I also set the Motor Startup setting value to 0 ... Maybe that helped. Maybe each controller had its own way going about it -- since each motor is wired differently for rotation.

[RaceMechaniX]

With the the fixed end points, you should not need to go through the Full throttle, Full brake, Nuetral routine. This is only for ground based controllers like the ICE Hydra's and car ESC's.
The plane ESC's just need the EPA and trim worked out and then everytime you fire it up it should be the same.

Now for the strong caution. Be sure the set the failsafe with the new settings. Use the offset Neutral or full brake as the FS setting. Do this before you run.

[dmitry100]

My Fail Safe at the moment (as they are by default) are set as Throttle: Mode: OFF, Position: (FREE)

Do you mean I should set it as Throttle: Mode: F/S, Position: 0, B-FS: OFF ?

[RaceMechaniX]

You should turn your fail safe on, the position should be something like B80. The simple way is to just hold the set buttons at the neutral trigger position. This neutral is something like B80-B100 with modified trim setting when using the aircraft controllers. I am not sure how to set the F/S on the 4PLS, but check the instructions.

The battery fail safe is also a good idea to turn on. Set it to 3.5V or whatever the standard setting in the radio is.

[dmitry100]

Fail Safes set with Throttle: Mode: OFF, Position: (FREE) seems to work -- even if i turn off the transmitter or RX

I'm assuming you're talking about the Trigger Calibration setting on the radio... that sets neutral, brake, full

[RaceMechaniX]

When the failsafe is set correctly it is safer than just the receiver not having a stored FS.

[dmitry100]

Is the max value of 1.965ms for "Throttle In" from the data log an accurate number when hitting Full Throttle?

[CraigP]

2ms is standard time, so yes, it’s right in there...

[dmitry100]

It appears that the throttle issues were worked out and seem to be working like normal and hitting full throttle as it should... The HPR99 cat runs fine once it manages to get on plane. Just that the throttle "variations" like you described Tyler are there and are incredibly annoying as it sometimes makes the cat unsteady before it gains up the speed and it only happens randomly... sometimes before a pass and sometimes not. Maybe I'll try tweaking the motor startup settings to a much higher setting and see if it makes any difference. It's really random... in terms of which sides wants to go faster before it speeds up for another pass :/ lol. so strange.

Better than a complete roll over compared to before though i guess. Maybe I'll shoot an email to Castle and see if they have any remedies for this issue... Surely even a cheapo hobbywing esc can get it right.

[srislash]

Dmitry are you referring to the damn waggle at lowish speeds on the HPR? I am having this issue with the 115 to the degree of popping one prop out of the water. I am assuming it is a dihedral hull thing and it seems to be fine if I just ‘nail it’. I’m just running Swordy Lite’s so No logs to read to help. I’m just getting mine going so I guess I am just somewhat behind you.

[dmitry100]

Yea that’s the one. Well then, I’m glad it might not be a symptom of the castle edge/ice throttles differences. Could it be that there is too much lift being created on the rear near props? I think I’ll play around with the drive angles and CoG a bit. Perhaps there’s not enough prop in water...

I’ve also noticed that when setting the hull on an even table surface —some of the steps don’t exactly match the opposite side in height. Primarily the 2nd step before the last on one side which causes the last step (before drives) on one opposite side to have like 4-5mm of air while other one is perfectly touches the surface. I doubt that helps given how sensitive these hulls are after all. I’ll need to sand it down and see if it helps at all...

Btw, have you tried playing around with the angle of rudder blade? What angle is yours set at currently

If I remember correctly, Don’t all of the SF300 lite versions have data logging capability?