Is the BEC in the castle worth using at all for the receiver? I was thinking to just use a LiFe instead, as I would imagine it would cause it to create more heat like all other ESC's.
I have found that the radio board that has the BEC in it, runs about 20 degrees cooler when the BEC is disconnected.
I use these instead of a battery pack in all my boats to power the receiver.
If you are using a relatively small servo that is not needing to work hard you can stick with the onboard BEC. However, I do recommend using an external receiver pack for anything with a 150oz+ servo. The BEC does have to work hard and this is a common failure seen on the control boards.
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
Tyler, is it possible to have flex cable that is a bit way too flexible?
This black cable (got it from keith - but it appears to be Octura cable like from OSE) rattles way too much even when I apply a bit of load on the shaft.
The other gold cable runs fine, even when running on the other side...
I haven't put it on the water yet... didn't want this flex blowing up.
Perhaps the cable is too long for the amount of support I have in there?
The teflon tube I'm using has an ID of 5.5mm, decided to use it instead of the other thicker 5mm ID teflon I have... figured it'd run better with teflon that isn't too tight.
Should I use a different cable or will it be fine with some real load?
I have some flex cables that also whip on the bench without load, but work fine in boats when load is applied. I am surprised you have that much whip with such short shafts. Looks like you have enough support and no big gap between the stuffing tube and collet. You are correct that the Teflon liner does need some clearance, but there is such a thing as too much clearance.
If I had the option of running one cable that whips on the bench versus one that does not, I would go with the latter. I would normally say try both cables, but it looks like you built this boat for SAW runs and if running high RPM cable whip will destroy the drive line and potentially the motors.
-Tyler
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
Do LMT motors not like a decent 5mm+ gap between the drives and drive dog?
There was something I read about how it is a big no no with LMT in particular... Is that true? Or did I misread that
Something about it ruining the bearings or motor shafts
I’ve never read that but it makes sense because every Lehner motor I’ve used it put in a customers boat with a single has had the shaft slip in it. I guess they need a thrust bearing? I dunno? I don’t spend that kind of money on failing equipment anymore.
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
I’ve never read that but it makes sense because every Lehner motor I’ve used it put in a customers boat with a single has had the shaft slip in it. I guess they need a thrust bearing? I dunno? I don’t spend that kind of money on failing equipment anymore.
I run thrust bearings on all my Lehner motors to stop the shaft slippage, not that I have ever suffered from it.
Any thrust bearing I've seen so far has a maximum RPM rating of 20k
It would be a strange thing to need seeing how expensive these LMT motors are... Never thought it to be such a common issue.
I'll post in a German forum about this and see what they are doing about this... so far I have never seen thrust bearings on any boats running LMT so far
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