Differences between high end ESC's and cheap ones for Lehner motors?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • TRUCKPULL
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 2969

    #121
    Originally posted by dmitry100

    I’ve also noticed that when setting the hull on an even table surface —some of the steps don’t exactly match the opposite side in height. Primarily the 2nd step before the last on one side which causes the last step (before drives) on one opposite side to have like 4-5mm of air while other one is perfectly touches the surface. I doubt that helps given how sensitive these hulls are after all. I’ll need to sand it down and see if it helps at all...
    Sounds like you need to blueprint the bottom of that hull, to be out 4-5mm is way to much.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

    Comment

    • RaceMechaniX
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2007
      • 2827

      #122
      The scale cats are notorious for the low speed transition wobble. Most people point and squeeze to get up on plane quickly. These seems to work better than slowly motoring up.
      Tyler Garrard
      NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
      T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

      Comment

      • srislash
        Not there yet
        • Mar 2011
        • 7673

        #123
        Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
        The scale cats are notorious for the low speed transition wobble. Most people point and squeeze to get up on plane quickly. These seems to work better than slowly motoring up.
        That’s what I figured Tyler. I just need to get to another lake instead of the close test lake with all the waterski markers in it. Lol

        Comment

        • srislash
          Not there yet
          • Mar 2011
          • 7673

          #124
          Originally posted by dmitry100
          Yea that’s the one. Well then, I’m glad it might not be a symptom of the castle edge/ice throttles differences. Could it be that there is too much lift being created on the rear near props? I think I’ll play around with the drive angles and CoG a bit. Perhaps there’s not enough prop in water...

          I’ve also noticed that when setting the hull on an even table surface —some of the steps don’t exactly match the opposite side in height. Primarily the 2nd step before the last on one side which causes the last step (before drives) on one opposite side to have like 4-5mm of air while other one is perfectly touches the surface. I doubt that helps given how sensitive these hulls are after all. I’ll need to sand it down and see if it helps at all...

          Btw, have you tried playing around with the angle of rudder blade? What angle is yours set at currently

          If I remember correctly, Don’t all of the SF300 lite versions have data logging capability?
          I got these from Keith with no logging. The only thing I’ve played with so far was CG. Moved it back some and spun it out and flipped it. Hoping next weekend to get it out again. Way too much on the plate this weekend.

          Comment

          • srislash
            Not there yet
            • Mar 2011
            • 7673

            #125
            In my case anyway I doubt if it is a prop lift issue. I’m only starting off with 447’s. My Daytona hull does this too. And curious about the ride surfaces, my pal up here had a 99 and never could get it going good. I’ll try to check mine at some point over the weekend.

            Comment

            • dmitry100
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Mar 2015
              • 1264

              #126
              It's strange that i have never really seen that wobble in any of the SAW videos of small or big cats ... but perhaps they all are starting off fast to begin with.

              i think that the fact the HPR99 is soo thin in terms of width and tall compared to every other cat of it's length -- the wobble is probably that much more obvious in this particular hull

              Comment

              • srislash
                Not there yet
                • Mar 2011
                • 7673

                #127
                Originally posted by dmitry100
                It's strange that i have never really seen that wobble in any of the SAW videos of small or big cats ... but perhaps they all are starting off fast to begin with.

                i think that the fact the HPR99 is soo thin in terms of width and tall compared to every other cat of it's length -- the wobble is probably that much more obvious in this particular hull
                I tend to agree with you Dmitry, that same friend aforementioned also has a MHZ 185 that does it somewhat too. Just the hull, they are good once at speed just takes some driving skills. Here is a pic of the last step and the rudder for you

                C4AAB39A-EBBA-4418-8616-EA0B30A71F80.jpg

                Comment

                • dmitry100
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Mar 2015
                  • 1264

                  #128
                  Is it an Aluminum or stainless steel rudder?

                  Looks good either way. I’m using the previous version of the rudders that Werner would make... they bend so darn easy. I could probably fold one up with one hand lol. Not sure if it’s intentional or not but at $15 per blade it will get expensive lol. So I want to find someone who makes a sturdier steel version of the blade

                  Comment

                  • srislash
                    Not there yet
                    • Mar 2011
                    • 7673

                    #129
                    It is aluminum rudder Dmitry. It is from Kent (natatorun) Customcfparts.com

                    He dare me to break/bend it. Haha. Another option would be a custom knife builder. There is a guy near me that I keep saying I’m going to stop at.

                    Comment

                    • dmitry100
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Mar 2015
                      • 1264

                      #130
                      must be made from a stronger type of aluminum than mine then

                      any ideas how much is he selling replacement blades for?

                      Comment

                      • dmitry100
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Mar 2015
                        • 1264

                        #131
                        Tyler, is there such as a thing as too much gear oil (amount) or too thick of a gear oil? I'm using some 75W-140 Full Synth gear oil but I feel it might be a little too thick of a consistency. The stuff sticking on the flex cable once taken out after a run is almost a grease like consistency. Though, the good thing so far is that even without any load this stuff has completely quieted any rattles, noise, or vibration in the drive line...

                        Figured it might help if there was any water, but drive line is sealed well anyway

                        Comment

                        • RaceMechaniX
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Sep 2007
                          • 2827

                          #132
                          Yes there is. 75W-140 is too thick. I would try chainsaw bar oil if you prefer oil or use some Klotz 2-cycle engine oil. For most flex cables running in brass stuffing tubes I stick use grease especially for heat racing boats. Apply the grease and work it into the valleys betweens strands. Squeegee off the excess grease. It's important to not over grease the cable. A little grease is all that is needed. If you are running flex cables in Teflon lined stuffing tubes try the chainsaw bar oil or some ATF. Again just apply enough oil to coat the cable and wipe off excess.
                          Tyler Garrard
                          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                          Comment

                          • srislash
                            Not there yet
                            • Mar 2011
                            • 7673

                            #133
                            Originally posted by dmitry100
                            must be made from a stronger type of aluminum than mine then

                            any ideas how much is he selling replacement blades for?
                            I have no idea on the rudder blades Dmitry, but the complete with hydraulics was $200.

                            Comment

                            • dmitry100
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Mar 2015
                              • 1264

                              #134
                              Man, these LMT 1950 motors pull some crazy power especially for being so small ...

                              Ran the hpr99 on 6s yesterday with only a 1715 (42mm) and my external sensor showed a max current of 401 amps and 8,400 Watts before violently crashing...





                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                              Comment

                              • dmitry100
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Mar 2015
                                • 1264

                                #135
                                Tyler, something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/Klotz-KL-100-.../dp/B001BHI5J4



                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                Comment

                                Working...