Zippkits jae 21fe v2 outrigger_wood kit build
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I couldn't give up on the idea of access for changing the stuffing tube.
I also had no idea of the bottom ski dimensions.
This was not good. I want to run this rigger again. Can't run it without the bottom ski.
What to do?
Anyway, here's a link to the build video for my Version 2 bottom ski. The whole story of what I did is here...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 06-05-2021, 08:38 PM.Comment
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Anyway, it's fixed now. Too windy today for a test run...
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I got the JAE 33FE out for a re-maiden today. This is only the third time running this rigger. I did the maiden, then blew the bottom ski off the second time I took it out.
So I've adjusted the turn fin to level across the top(was 1-1/2 degrees positive) and I'm trying a different prop. ABC 1820-22-45(2) CLL. Also I'm running HRB 7000mAh 55C lipos this time.
I think that's the only changes from the original bench tune other than 60% dual rates on the steering.
I'm not pushing it, just getting a run in and enjoying having it back on the water.
Here's a link to the running video...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021, 12:22 PM.Comment
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I made some major changes to my JAE 33FE.
I didn't care for how heavy it felt on the water. The kit specs give a weight range of 5-7.5 pounds. The high end of that range did not feel good to me.
I also overheated the TP Power motor in another boat. Didn't feel like it was all there.
I stayed with 6s, went with a Neu motor, 1515/2D, 2050Kv. And a Flycolor 150 amp ESC.
This upgrade was not cheap tbh. But, I have zero buyer's remorse. This rigger checks all the boxes for me now.
I shed a little over a pound out of the boat...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021, 02:08 PM.Comment
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Other than a turn fin angle adjustment and steering dual rates, it's still running mostly off the bench.
And the ABC 1914 prop selection came from Greg Schweers.
Thank you Greg, you nailed it!
I got 72 mph top speed running laps and the electronic temps are beautiful. Motor 105 F, ESC 95 F, if I remember right.
Here's a link to the video. If anything it feels like it's still setup a bit wet. I had no concerns that it would blow off. There's a couple laps in there that were pinned thru the turns...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using TapatalkLast edited by sammyha; 06-14-2021, 02:05 PM.Comment
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The CG on this rigger was set at 1/2" behind the back edge of the turn fin in my last video. That's with the front of the batteries at the front edge of the tray. With the batteries all the way back, almost touching the last former, that moves the CG to 3/4" behind the turn fin. Doesn't change the CG very much.
Also, I had my turn fin set level to the tub. The strut was level too. Zippkit says set the strut level and leave it there. Got 72 mph out of her. Felt solid, with no tendency to blow off.
I'm going to try the CG at 3/4" behind the turn fin next. Just change one thing.
Can anyone with a 33 tell me where their CG is, and how their boat is running?
My feeling is changing the angle of the turn fin will loosen it up more than moving the CG back.
I like how it's staying on the water right now. Will try some other props too, I'm thinking...
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JAE 33FE hit 74.4 mph this morning. I'm making some good progress tuning this rigger...
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The turn fin has the most influence on ride attitude, as outlined in the instruction manual. Being curved, it acts as a hydrofoil if not perfectly level with the running attitude. You can take advantage of this effect to raise or lower the nose with just a fin adjustment. Kick the bottom forward and the nose comes up. Kicked back the boat gets tight to the water. It is very, very sensitive. Best case to worst case is probably at least 20 mph... Really.
CG is not critical, and has the most influence on the turns, as long as you are in the ballpark (and it's a big park), it has little effect on running attitude.
Keep in mind that props will change the ride attitude, so a fin adjustment may be required after a prop change.
Just try to run the boat as loose as you can, without it climbing up on the fin, or doing anything else funny.
Most riggers will not blow over unless something is wonky.
Also, there should never be a reason to service or change the shaft tube. It is well protected, and should never wear out. Removable skis serve only to frustrate...
The boat looks great!Comment
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The turn fin has the most influence on ride attitude, as outlined in the instruction manual. Being curved, it acts as a hydrofoil if not perfectly level with the running attitude. You can take advantage of this effect to raise or lower the nose with just a fin adjustment. Kick the bottom forward and the nose comes up. Kicked back the boat gets tight to the water. It is very, very sensitive. Best case to worst case is probably at least 20 mph... Really.
CG is not critical, and has the most influence on the turns, as long as you are in the ballpark (and it's a big park), it has little effect on running attitude.
Keep in mind that props will change the ride attitude, so a fin adjustment may be required after a prop change.
Just try to run the boat as loose as you can, without it climbing up on the fin, or doing anything else funny.
Most riggers will not blow over unless something is wonky.
Also, there should never be a reason to service or change the shaft tube. It is well protected, and should never wear out. Removable skis serve only to frustrate...
The boat looks great!
Sounds like I should stick with my current prop and tweak the turn fin since I'm pushing 75 mph now...
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I did a modification to my stealth cowling. Added a single OSE cowl screw and nut to the back end of it. Now I'm confident enough to get away from using tape on the cowling. I machined the thumb screw head thinner for a cleaner look...
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