HPR 115(Average White Boat)

[srislash]

Since I have had some free time with all the cold/snow we have had this winter I finally got a start on my HPR 115 Bullitproof Edition.
I got this as a 'complete Kit' from Keith.
It had motor mounts, stingers, rudder, servo mount, assorted cloth and a bag of Cabosil.
I have added a pair of Lehner 2250/7's and Swordfish 300 Lite's.



Sorry I did not get a pic of the hull prior to taping

[srislash]

So first some ESC prep! I removed shrink wrap, removed the stupid flimsy crossover tube, drilled the brass water tube out on that end (to 7/32"), then soldered on a bigger brass tube to accommodate my 4mm ID tube. Then I started on my caps thru the advice of a certain Aussie friend:

[Tamelesstgr]

Stupid question, but are there two sets of battery wires going into that ESC? Do I assume correctly that is done so you can run batteries in series, or is that part of the way you connected the cap banks?

[srislash]

Stupid question, but are there two sets of battery wires going into that ESC? Do I assume correctly that is done so you can run batteries in series, or is that part of the way you connected the cap banks?

There are two PITA 8g wires going in to the ESC. I have not really figured how I am going to get them in to a 8mm connector. I have to pair the reds and blacks in one connector. Certainly going to be a tsk depending how
I want it to sit in the boat.

[TheShaddix]

With my 300A lites I used 10mm bullets and fit 2 wires per single bullet connector, then the other end of that connector soldered with a single 8G wire into the lipo connectors, in my case it was 8mm bullets. It came out very clean and 10mm bullets are the best for having the least resistance. You can try and fit 2 of those wires into a single 8mm which is really inefficient and will be a mess with the solder all around it. I can't imagine anything smaller than 8mm. I think the reason there are 4 wires is to decrease resistance and heat mainly, and also allow for a parallel connection (or in series).

[Lone-Wolf]

Lookin' good Shawn! I like the cap banks you made. I better get a few more mph's outta my boat before I lose the speed title for good once your's hits the water! Really excited for this boat and watching it all unfold.

[srislash]

Lookin' good Shawn! I like the cap banks you made. I better get a few more mph's outta my boat before I lose the speed title for good once your's hits the water! Really excited for this boat and watching it all unfold.

I haven't put the Fantasm back in the water yet

Shaddix, I may use that plan. I was going to go 8mm-8mm with soldered parallel connectors(possibly replated in gold).

[jim82]

Speed title? Maybe in Canada..lol

[Lone-Wolf]

Speed title? Maybe in Canada..lol

Was an inside joke as we're both currently at 117mph...not for long!

[jim82]

I laugh because Yanks think we are stupid.

[srislash]

Was an inside joke as we're both currently at 117mph...not for long!

You are likely to beat me Steve. Not really any clear water for me

[Lone-Wolf]

Yeah but when water clears and she's dialed in...honestly looking forward to it...but no pressure buddy ;-)

[srislash]

So next was the deck stringers that I am doing on all my cats now. This totally adds rigidity at a minimal sacrifice of weight. I used 1.3mm CF for this



I have been simply epoxy'ing them in but this time I tried a 'cloth'd in' approach by tacking some cloth with epoxy, letting that stand for 6 or so hours and then flipping them in and wetting it all out



This turned out pretty well

[TheShaddix]

Why not just do a full inlay?

[srislash]

Why not just do a full inlay?

It has one from HPR, and seams doubled. I did this to my Fantasm which is on its fourth year(or fifth), with I don't know how many crashes and it is still fine. This takes the possibility of the deck flexing out of the equation. I also do it to my monos.