HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[fweasel]

My driest RTR boats use neoprene hatch seals. Don't know where to get it, but that stuff works great.

[TheShaddix]

I would strongly advise you against those pins in the hatch. I did the exact same thing in my hpr cat and, one by one, they started to show cracks, and on the boat side it actually chipped off a piece of the hull in a crash. Now I always just do a large cf plate on the hatch epoxied to the bottom which slides into the hull that also has a cf plate, so one goes underneath the other. Basically, bulletproof method considering how much surface area is used.

[boredom.is.me]

My driest RTR boats use neoprene hatch seals. Don't know where to get it, but that stuff works great.

The reason why some of these seals don't work is because the hull or canopy itself is too weak and gives in one area which doesn't allow another area to seal tight. To compensate for that, we use thicker and/or softer seals. I don't think I have that issue here.

I would strongly advise you against those pins in the hatch. I did the exact same thing in my hpr cat and, one by one, they started to show cracks, and on the boat side it actually chipped off a piece of the hull in a crash. Now I always just do a large cf plate on the hatch epoxied to the bottom which slides into the hull that also has a cf plate, so one goes underneath the other. Basically, bulletproof method considering how much surface area is used.

Would you happen to have a picture? Which hull, layup, and stress under normal or hard running? My main concern was to not compromise the seal as the best way to put it on is directly from above. I did consider using the same plates I had pictured before and placing them in a way that it slides under the lip of the hull itself. I would have mounted it at a slight downward angle just to accommodate the seal situation. Even then, it would really push against the foam seal. With the pins, I was planning on epoxying a carbon plate over the hull tubes and extend them a bit further. I would have also done similar for the canopy. The idea would be to distribute load to an entire area instead of at two small points, pretty much like how you described the plate. The pin hole spacing is 67mm. I would have made a 90mm-ish plate out of either 3mm or 2mm. And that entire area would have been in contact through epoxy.




I got a little more minor stuff done. The Cap bank cover is made from 1/4" acrylic(still dusty in these pictures). I skinned it to a 1mm thickness all around. I though about making a front cover as well, but that may not be a good idea as you wouldn't be able to see any bulging. I also made the backing plates for the hatch latches. The gasket is 3mm depron compressed to about 1.5mm by a solid 3mm carbon plate.

[boredom.is.me]

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[golfito]

[TheShaddix]

Here are some pics. You can see damage on the hull where the holes are, and also some small crack on the hatch at the middle pin. The boat runs around 95-100 mph, has had a lot of heavy crashes, but I know there would be no cracks on it if it weren't for the pins. Nothing else on this boat has ever even shown stress cracks or anything. The hull and hatch are reinforced with 12k carbon. The hull was built by hpr as a carbon version as well. I've definitely moved on to using cf plates, similar to what you use for those hatch locks but larger.

[boredom.is.me]

I see one possibility as to why that happened. It doesn't look like you have any kind of "holsters" for the hatch pins. If all of the force is on a single edge like that, then it's understandable that it would eventually give. Even if the area is reinforced, there is still pin point pressure. Please don't take that as me being disrespectful. My way of learning is to figure out why something went wrong. And I prefer to solve the issue rather than building around it. One other thing to keep in mind is that the carbon is stiffer and more brittle than the carbon/kevlar, which would only increase the likelihood of what I said above. I do greatly appreciate your input and pictures so don't think that it's falling on deaf ears.

So ya, the pins have a greater pressure than the tab, but if the pins were the strongest point (material wise) and SECURELY attached to the surrounding area, that same force should be distributed silimar to a larger tab. I'm pretty sure I fully understand what you are describing, but I want to make sure we're on the same page. Would you happen to have pics of the tab construction? I hope I'm not being too much of a bother.

And you say 95-100 like it's nothing! I'm just aiming for 60.

I also can't get the exact weatherstrip I want locally, so I ordered it through Amazon. It will be here on Thursday so I'll get to do some more playing around.

[TheShaddix]

No problem, all good! I see what you mean about the holsters. My main concern is with the hatch which is super strong and still managed to develop a crack in the paint coat/gel coat. That, to me, is enough not to want to deal with small pins. I have done those pins on every boat in the past. But when you're dealing with really bad crashes as a normal thing there is only so much speculation/calculations you can allow yourself before wanting to just go with the most bulletproof method and have that peace of mind. One big tab is way easier to install anyway, and in carbon it looks really nice. I will take a pic of my new hatch which has a tab.

[boredom.is.me]

An order shouldn't take longer to process than it does to ship... HK still hasn't shipped the ESCs.

It would also appear that JustGoRC is officially down. I checked back a few times over the past few weeks just out of curiosity.

[boredom.is.me]

My stuff just shipped...I hate having to deal with them.

[boredom.is.me]

I ordered a five pack of black 2.5" of 2" id 52" long pool noodles for $15 shipped. I was going to get a single black 3" by 60" solid noodle for $14, but I decided to procrastinate for absolutely no reason. It seems to have paid off.

The ESCs finally shipped yesterday.

The weatherstripping came in. It's thick enough to get the job down without lifting the hatch off of the hull. So that's a win.

I tested the cap bank too. Unfortunately I had no way to discharge it once it got up to 24v. It stayed above 20v for at least an hour. I also sealed the traces with black silicone and placed it in the case. It's surprisingly clean.

I also found some 12awg silicone wire that I can use for the cap bank connection. I purchased 14awg, but bigger can't hurt. I can't imagine the batteries needing to balance voltage that much, but still.

Stuff stuff stuff

[Insert cool picture]

[boredom.is.me]

My internet is down for some reason so here is are some cell pictures of my screen...

36mm tall, 20.75mm long, 10mm wide

I doubt it will fit aesthetically, but I wanted to design it anyway. I'll make a printout to see if I even want to pursue it.

What is seen here is just the fin. There is a base that would be completely covered. The base is what you would attach to the hull.



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[boredom.is.me]

The speed controllers arrived today. I need to make a short extension for the right ESC, but aside from that, everything seems straight. I only spun one motor, but man does it sound like nothing else. It's like a mini turbine.

[grsboats]

Take care running motors on the workbench...have seen lot of people destroying them.

[TheShaddix]

That antenna looks way too big, pretty much a copy of the spektrum one which is ok on the radio, but not on a smooth, classy boat like this one. I was thinking of something more flush, maybe 1" tall, like this here https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Chr...&wl13=&veh=sem. Btw, not sure if i asked already, but what cad program is that?